AR 15 Build tutorial

[1911whore]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t06WEvrSajw

[SanDiego619]

I didn't watch every second of it but clicked through, looks good. When I build lowers I still scroll through a tutorial with pics of each piece that gets installed. It's legos but it keeps me from screwing up too bad.

[1911whore]

Thanks, and yes these things are big boy legos. haha

[alpha_romeo_XV]

For a first time builder a bit more demo on the fire control group install and a headpace check may be good to show?

[Sparrow Dynamics]

Good helpful video with good tips, and nice that it wasn't crazy long. Some tips on installing the fire control group would be helpful too. Maybe as a separate video?

Good tip on backing out screws first and feel for the "skip" to avoid cross threading. Not enough people know this tip. Also, great tip on using the needle nose pliers to get the bolt catch pin started. I have not done that before, but will definitely try it next build.
The only issues I could see is that the wrench should be 90 degrees on the torque driver to apply the proper torque. This is a common mistake. Also, the Wilson Combat Q Comp muzzle device would most likely be considered a flash hider in CA. When it comes to these laws, we 100% agree that politicians are idiots.

[NorCalRefuge]

Good helpful video with good tips, and nice that it wasn't crazy long. Some tips on installing the fire control group would be helpful too. Maybe as a separate video?

Good tip on backing out screws first and feel for the "skip" to avoid cross threading. Not enough people know this tip. Also, great tip on using the needle nose pliers to get the bolt catch pin started. I have not done that before, but will definitely try it next build.
The only issues I could see is that the wrench should be 90 degrees on the torque driver to apply the proper torque. This is a common mistake. Also, the Wilson Combat Q Comp muzzle device would most likely be considered a flash hider in CA. When it comes to these laws, we 100% agree that politicians are idiots.

Torque ratings on AR's are usually ranges, and often wide ranges - so exactly 90* probably isn't too important as long as you pick a target torque somewhere in the middle of the range.

You're already aware, but for those who are not - the wide ranges for things like barrel nut are often so you can "time" the nut to not interfere or touch the gas tube, or for some rails that require holes in certain locations, etc.

I don't personally use a torque wrench on castle nut or muzzle device - just wrench them down until timed correctly or feels tight enough - then I stake the castle nut with one of those auto-punch spring loaded dealios.

[NorCalRefuge]

For a first time builder a bit more demo on the fire control group install and a headpace check may be good to show?

Decent video on fire control group.

If you're worried about headspace checking, just buy a go-nogo gauge and call it a day. Personally, I've never worried about this - quality parts from companies known for QC is good enough for me... but if it's not for you, just slip one of these in and go from there:

https://www.amazon.com/Forster-Products-Headspace-Gauge-223/dp/B00QE5TZ10

(probably can be found cheaper somewhere else...)

[Dvrjon]

Good vid. A couple of observations:

9:36 - Using the pliers to set the pin works well. To better protect the upper, approach the unit from the top, not the bottom. That keeps your pliers away from the sides of the receiver and gives your hand more room to work the pliers.
////

8:41 - Installing the buttstock on the separated lower. The buttstock isn’t fixed and telescopes.
10:01: Completed (separated) lower function check; The buttstock is still adjustable.
10:35 - Completed weapon with upper and lower joined.

It might be helpful to edit in the part where you stabilized the buttstock, prior to joining the receivers, to keep it from telescoping. That will ensure folks watching don’t erroneously leave the stock adjustable and build an assault weapon.

[NorCalRefuge]

Lastly - I highly recommend everyone build at least 1 AR, if you're into AR's.

You'll learn an incredible amount about AR's in the process. Far more than you would just by shooting them.

They're simple devices, but a lot of folks have this built up idea that it's super complicated and requires a ton of specialized knowledge to build one that works well. This myth is often pushed by companies that sell complete AR's or uppers, since they'd obviously rather you buy theirs than build your own.

You'll need some basic tools, but if you're going to run AR's for long, you'll probably want these tools anyway. No sense in taking your AR to a gunsmith to change your muzzle device, swap grips, or "upgrade" the dust cover for example.

I might be forgetting a thing or two, but here's basics:

• Bench Vise
• Reaction Rod (or similar)
• Magwell Vise Block
• Roll Pin Punch Set (AR specific set is helpful, but not required)
• Castle Nut Wrench (this is probably the only single-use tool you need)
• Rubber or Nylon hammer
• Brass hammer (or just use a regular hammer, choked up real high, light taps...)
• Crescent Wrench (or 3/4" wrench) for muzzle devices, unless yours calls for a different size
• Spring loaded auto-punch for staking castlenut (or steel punch if you're feeling frisky)
• Various sized allen key set
• ft/lbs Torque Wrench (for barrel nut)
• Possibly an in/lbs Torque Wrench (if called for by your rail of choice)
• Grease, plenty of grease (aeroshell if you wanna go OG, or regular antiseize)
• Your favorite CLP/Oil
• Bottle of blue loctite (some rails come with a bottle much larger than needed, could save on this)
• Bottle of spray brake/carburetor cleaner - *** NON CHLORINATED ***

Several of these tools can be combined into a single tool, if you purchase one of the many AR Armorer's Wrenches available. These often handle mil-spec barrel nuts (but most modern rails have their own special wrench these days, often included with the rail), castle nuts, muzzle devices and sometimes a few other features.

It's also nice to have a detent pin/spring installer for the front takedown pin. If you've built an AR without one of these, you've probably shot several across the room! Real Avid makes a nice one for around $10, but there's other options too.

If your lower receiver doesn't have an integrated trigger guard, you'll want a trigger guard roll pin pusher. This takes pressure off the trigger guard ears on the receiver, and prevents you from breaking one off. Not required... but it's better safe than sorry here. You could also substitute this with a bench block for trigger guard roll pin installation, but the pusher is easier in my opinion.

You've probably got most of these items laying in your workbench/toolbox already - but don't be afraid to pickup some Harbor Freight cheapies either. The rest can be found on Brownells/Midway and other places. Or even Amazon for some of the items.

These tools are a one-time investment, which allow you to build ARs or service any AR. Well worth it in my opinion.

For planning your build, you can model it on Gunstrunction: https://www.ar15.com/gunstruction/

It doesn't have every part imaginable modeled, but it has plenty - and lets you see in 3d what your build might look like once completed (if you're going for a particular look or something). It also helps you know what parts are compatible if you're doing your first build.

[NorCalRefuge]

Good points. If you're building a fixed-mag AR with an adjustable stock, make sure you have installed the fixed-mag device prior to fitting upper and lower together - otherwise you'll need to hide your dogs

[golfish]

I didn't watch every second of it but clicked through, looks good. When I build lowers I still scroll through a tutorial with pics of each piece that gets installed. It's legos but it keeps me from screwing up too bad.

lol, as many that I have built, I still need to watch a video to assemble the trigger group.

[Dvrjon]

lol, as many that I have built, I still need to watch a video to assemble the trigger group.

[sigstroker]

Decent video on fire control group.

If you're worried about headspace checking, just buy a go-nogo gauge and call it a day. Personally, I've never worried about this - quality parts from companies known for QC is good enough for me... but if it's not for you, just slip one of these in and go from there:

https://www.amazon.com/Forster-Products-Headspace-Gauge-223/dp/B00QE5TZ10

(probably can be found cheaper somewhere else...)

There's more to it than just buying it. You're supposed to remove the ejector, so you have to disassemble the bolt.

[sigstroker]

I have one from Geissele. Did not cost much and saved at least a dozen curse words.

[ActionExpress]

My fav, a really great video: https://youtu.be/WG03RlUDkE8