Bolt action choices... Help please

[ar15barrels]

Wrangler John, thank you for the well thought response. I had not considered the twist rate implications. I need a sanity check from you all with tons more experience than I. Practice knowledge of disassembly and tools required to do so are worth gold my friend. Thanks for the info...

If you get a savage and want to really run it hard, order lots of extra extractors, detents and springs as those seem to be common failure parts that get changed out/lost/replaced often when you try to run the gun hard.
If you only intent to shoot slow fire on the bench, you will be fine for a long time as evidenced by most savage owners not running into these problems.

The ease of field repairs that john speaks about are really only a concern on the savage.
Remingtons usually don't need those parts serviced more than about every 4000 rounds.

[2W2X1]

In reviewing Remington website and custom shop... I can not locate the 5R. Is it still in production?

[ar15barrels]

In reviewing Remington website and custom shop... I can not locate the 5R. Is it still in production?

It's a non-cataloged model.
Google "remington 29663"

[2W2X1]

Thank you ar15barrels. I'll ask around locally to see if one can be located and purchased. I like to support my local b&m.

[3GunFunShooter]

For the money, Savage is one of the best values on the market.
I got a FCP10, 308 Accu stock, Accu Trigger, Heavy fluted 5R, threaded barrel, magazine fed, for $830. Non catalog item SKU #19055
Took a Long Range Clinic with a Primary Arms, 4-14, $250 scope.
Was able to hit a 24" X 30" target 4 out of 12 shots at 1000 yards.
I was very pleased with the Savage product, and I have always been a
big fan of Remington.

[Wrangler John]

If you get a savage and want to really run it hard, order lots of extra extractors, detents and springs as those seem to be common failure parts that get changed out/lost/replaced often when you try to run the gun hard.
If you only intent to shoot slow fire on the bench, you will be fine for a long time as evidenced by most savage owners not running into these problems.

The ease of field repairs that john speaks about are really only a concern on the savage.
Remingtons usually don't need those parts serviced more than about every 4000 rounds.

Still, after years of using both in the field, I have never had either a Remington or Savage break. My concern for parts replacements is related to switching barrels, bolt heads, cartridge families, with the attendant disassembly, populating bare bolt heads, or using aftermarket bolt heads and swapping firing pin assemblies of standard and magnum length. The reference to repairs in the field is intended to show that the Savage is repairable without a gunsmith, machine shop or specialized tools, should the occasion arise.

Most of the complaints regarding Remingtons centers around the factory extractor breaking, or the bolt handle breaking off when the braze fails, usually due to trying to extract a stuck cartridge by applying force to the handle. Now we also have the X-Mark Pro trigger issue, which is not a problem for those of us who toss the factory trigger first thing in favor of a Jewel or Timney trigger. The Remington only becomes a fail resistant system when the action is extensively overhauled with screwed down bolt handle, and modified extractor such as the Sako or M-16 installed. This latter also defeats the safety margin of the action's gas handling property should a cartridge rupture (unlikely in most circumstances).

As for any roughness in the Savage action, some say bolt lift is too hard or rough, here is link to a simple cure. Scroll halfway down the page to Tips and Tricks: (The Remington also can benefit from a bit of polishing and lubrication on the cocking ramp).

http://www.steyrscout.org/savscout.htm (I just checked both Savage and PT&G replacement bolt head ejectors and replacement ejectors and none had the defect shown in the article, all were properly relieved and polished.)

Many factory rifles are rough due to a lack of hand fitting and usually smooth up during use. I had one new Marlin lever action that felt like running a fingernail down a file when opening the lever. It soon smoothed out.

Here are some resources for those that want to modify a factory rifle or build a complete gun from parts:

http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/remingtonperf.htm#bolts

http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/savage%20performance.htm

Or if you want to experiment with Remington's new Savage clone, the Remington 783, here are a few new accessories:

http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/remington783performance.htm

Want to add a swap barrel to a Remington 783 look here:

http://northlandshooterssupply.com/

Savage Brux barrels, parts and serve is available at: http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/ The Brux barrel is a cut rifled barrel of superior accuracy.

Want to set up a Remington 700 as a swap barrel rifle with high quality barrels ready to install yourself with a Savage barrel wrench and barrel vise see Northland Shooters Supply above, go here (see RemNut option):

http://pac-nor.com/

My Remington 700 with swap barrels appears below .308 Winchester 24" 1:10" twist polygonal rifled Pac-Nor barrel, RemNut, Vais muzzle break, Bell&Carlson Stock, Wyatt Magazine. The action was modified to my specifications by Greg Tannel ( http://www.gretanrifles.com/) I also recommend the products and services of Darrel Holland (http://www.hollandguns.com/):



You can start with a Remington rifle and decades later have it completely refreshed into any configuration you want. Savage will do the same for you.

[B!ngo]

I don't have the technical expertise or experience as some of our other members have but I can add that there have been huge numbers of Rem 700's shipped in the past decades making the pre-owned market economically attractive. Whether GB or others, there are big numbers of these guns to consider at different price points. Of all of the gun purchasing opportunities to save yourself some money to devote to optics, ammo or Big-Gulps, this is one of 'em.
I've been very pleased with the purchase of used firearms (both handguns and rifles) over the past years even though I'm left-handed and buy left-handed configs. Late last year I purchased a Rem 700 CDL in .223 LH and it was essentially new. I've been very pleased with it.
Of course, like many used 700's, you'll either have to return it for a trigger cleanup due to the recall, or do what many others are doing which is to install a non-OEM trigger. In fact, I don't know how many new 700's you'll find on the retailers shelves at this time since they were all pulled back in April when the recall was announced.
BTW, I'm still of the belief that Rem will go through some major financial 'restructuring' this year or so due to the R51 debacle and Rem 700 recall. Expensive and embarrassing events that their owner/investor must be trying to decide if they want to continue to endure.
B

[2W2X1]

In swinging by local shops, I am seeing the recalled remington 700s showing back up on shelves. Still can't decide on what to settle on, but think I have enough info to make a decent choice to start. I still have some time to find that right deal and I am not opposed to used.

[allenj]

It was the same for me and the deciding factor ended up being I found a Savage 10 Pre Car on sale. Both brands have their positives and negatives but I don't think you can go wrong with either.

[MongooseV8]

Get a 5R if you decide on a 700. The HS Precision stocks are pretty awesome for a working gun. There are better stocks out there for sure but I have like 10 of them on my various varmint rigs, both Savage and 700.

These days there isnt a lot of aftermarket parts that are not available for a Savage. You can easily find almost just as much fancy parts as a 700.

I broke a Savage extractor once when a case blew out. Well I dont actually know if it broke, as I never saw it again lol. It shot it out sideways somewhere and safely vented all the gas and pressure out the intended holes.

[JMP]

Wrangler John, thank you for the well thought response. I had not considered the twist rate implications. I need a sanity check from you all with tons more experience than I. Practice knowledge of disassembly and tools required to do so are worth gold my friend. Thanks for the info...

With a .308 with a barrel 24" or longer, you can't do better than a 1:12" twist with 5R rifling. 1:10" is idiotic unless you are using a short barrel. If you want to shoot heavy 190+ bullets, get the proper tool for the job, a .300WM or at least a 30-06 as a .308 cartridge doesn't have the case capacity for large .30 cal bullets.

[RNE228]

Something to think about...

Have an early 80's Rem700V 308. From day-1 it has been a sub moa tack driver, even with a relatively cheap Simmons 3-9x40 that I originally put on it at first.

I broke it in on Federal match ammo, and then reloaded those cases with Sierra 165 bthp Gamekings over 4064 for antelope hunting.

Accurate accurate accurate, right out of the box.

I don't have the technical expertise or experience as some of our other members have but I can add that there have been huge numbers of Rem 700's shipped in the past decades making the pre-owned market economically attractive. Whether GB or others, there are big numbers of these guns to consider at different price points. Of all of the gun purchasing opportunities to save yourself some money to devote to optics, ammo or Big-Gulps, this is one of 'em.B

[russ69]

All the guns you listed are good guns. None are perfect but they are certainly rifles you can shoot for a lifetime and learn something every time you go shooting.