Scope Moving

[mr_benster]

I have a nightforce scope thats 5.5x22x56 and I am using nightforce light rings and nightforce base mount shooting a 338 lapua.

I had finally zeroed my rifle and I was hitting 1/8 inch groups at 100 yards.

After a few rounds, I noticed that my groups were getting bigger. I noticed that my scope looked like it moved. I placed a piece of tape to mark the scope and I was correct. It was moving.

When I mounted the scope, I followed the nightforce recommended lbs of torque which is 15lbs using a wheeler fat wrench. I also put blue loctite into the threads.

One of the RO at the range said to tighten it that there are no gaps between my top rings and bottom rings and its okay to do so since the rings are 30mm rings and my scope is 30mm. It's made for that he says.

Now I'm not sure if I want to do that and risk breaking my scope. So I need to know what others think based on experience. I'm thinking maybe some wider rings will do. Thoughts?

Thanks,

[peacedivision]

NF topscrew torque spec is 25in/lb

[mr_benster]

NF topscrew torque spec is 25in/lb

Well that quickly fixes the issue.

Thanks,

[russ69]

There will still be a gap at the rings, that's OK.

[peacedivision]

I would also make sure the base and rings are seated all the way forward so there is no chance anything is moving under recoil. Never shot a .338 but I assume it is punishing hehe. And yep with 25in/lb there will still be a gap.

[NordicDave]

Every scope I mount has the rings perfectly aligned and lapped using the Weaver mounting smith kit. It's surprising once the rings are perfectly round and aligned, how much more clamping force is available without marking the scope tube!

A torque wrench screwdriver helps a lot.

-NordicDave

[peacedivision]

I lapped the ruger factory rings on my mini 14 but NF rings should be pretty dang precise from the factory. I am running 34mm NF rings torqued to 25in/lbs, removed the scope a couple times to adjust eye relief during the build and not a single mark on the tube.

[NordicDave]

I lapped the ruger factory rings on my mini 14 but NF rings should be pretty dang precise from the factory. I am running 34mm NF rings torqued to 25in/lbs, removed the scope a couple times to adjust eye relief during the build and not a single mark on the tube.

Nice to see someone who knows how to mount a scope properly. As you said earlier, resting correctly on a Picatinny base (ring pushed forward against a rail) is good advice often overlooked.

-NordicDave

[jpscoot_21]

Some other hints: coat the inside of the rings with light coat of rubber cement, mic the gaps on the rings with leaf gapper so they're even.

[Dannicus]

Some other hints: coat the inside of the rings with light coat of rubber cement, mic the gaps on the rings with leaf gapper so they're even.

I'm pretty OCD, so getting the gaps even with feeler gauges is something I do, but rubber cement in the rings is totally unnecessary and and sounds messy.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendation and everything should hold. Most don't even recommend loc-tite.

[Divernhunter]

I have that Nightforce scope and rings on one of my 50bmg rifles. LAP THE RINGS! It does make a difference!

['ol shooter]

Buy a rosin bag at a sporting goods store, or violin rosin at a music store. Put rosin inside the rings before putting on the caps and torquing.

[ar15barrels]

I lapped the ruger factory rings on my mini 14 but NF rings should be pretty dang precise from the factory. I am running 34mm NF rings torqued to 25in/lbs, removed the scope a couple times to adjust eye relief during the build and not a single mark on the tube.

Lapping is for correcting bad bases much more than bad rings.
It's the base that usually throws the rings out of alignment, creating the need for lapping.
When the base is flat, lapping usually does nothing for alignment.
Twisted bases show a lot more change from lapping.

[killshot44]

I'd bed the base and locktite the screws.

[dskit]

Also make sure the interior of the rings are dry and oil free. Some rings come out of the box all lubed up - that would contribute to such a problem.