fly weight breakdown skeleton single shot pack rifle?

[pacrat]

24" 308 barrel with another 8" of bolt action on the back and another 10" of silencer can on the front for 42" unit where the back 20" is projecting over your shoulder and it has a comfy neutral balance, maybe even some negative balance so the upward force of the grips will keep your arms from getting tired when scoping a target for several minutes? Sure, why not. "Negative Balance" as cure for arm strain???

Have you come to a proposed weight limit for the "over the shoulder periscope" you will need for "scoping a target for several minutes". Or will the scope be uniquely mounted "under" the barrel?

How about RPG/Bazooka style. With your scope QD'd to the side of the stock/barrel? It could be an optional Ambi mount, and work on either side. With a couple of obligatory WINGNUTS.

I'm outa here. Far too much fun for an old guy.

[ojisan]

Well one thing nice about the T/C Contender is that by pushing out the cross pin you can change barrels.
The cross pin can be a very precise fit but it is not supposed to be a press fit, the sides of the forend hold it in.
So, at least one very popular and successful design is using a sliding pin with a couple thousands clearance at a minimum.
Oh the horror of it all!

[pacrat]

Well one thing nice about the T/C Contender is that by pushing out the cross pin you can change barrels.
The cross pin can be a very precise fit but it is not supposed to be a press fit, the sides of the forend hold it in.
So, at least one very popular and successful design is using a sliding pin with a couple thousands clearance at a minimum.
Oh the horror of it all!

IF by pushing out the cross pin. You mean at least some light tapping with a hammer/punch. Then I would agree. Any pin that can be pushed out with finger pressure is "LOOSE" and will not be as accurate as a tighter pin. A PROPERLY fit TC pin increases accuracy by tightening lockup, and decreases barrel to frame movement during firing.

Will a loose fitting pin work and go bang. YES. But I can attest to the improved accuracy of a properly fit pin.

Admittedly I misspoke calling a TC pin a "press fit". More accurate description would be a "zero clearance interference fit". Whereas a press fit is a heavier interference fit. Requiring a press to force the pin, in and out of position.

But NONE were intentionally made loose enough to fall out if the fore end didn't hold them. In early days. TC recommended always keeping and using only the pin a frame came with. Because they were individually matched to the frame. As production expanded fitment became less critical to QC. And I honestly quit fiddling with my early G-1 Cougar frame, many years ago. [several decades] Things at TC have obviously gone downhill if first vid is example of New Norm. I can't help but believe that frame was Bubba'd, then sent to a pro.

I don't really expect you to take my word for this. I'm just a guy on interwebs.

How about guys who make their living accurizing TC top breaks. Listen to this TC specialist smith at "Haus a Arms". Relevant observation starts at 25 sec. https://youtu.be/NjDi26DvO1A

Or this one. Who actually runs through the process. https://youtu.be/WVTy-qdFAq4

Or hell, anyone that works with TCs, and knows WTF they are doing.

Before there were different aftermarket graduated pins available. Or even an internet. I was lucky enough to have a good friend with a tool post grinder. And taught me how to use it.

[LynnJr]

Well one thing nice about the T/C Contender is that by pushing out the cross pin you can change barrels.
The cross pin can be a very precise fit but it is not supposed to be a press fit, the sides of the forend hold it in.
So, at least one very popular and successful design is using a sliding pin with a couple thousands clearance at a minimum.
Oh the horror of it all!

Exactly 100% spot on correct. They even make oversize pins for those that don't lube there guns or those that shoot alot.
The lockup on the top is more important than the hingepin.

[Big Chudungus]

How about RPG/Bazooka style. With your scope QD'd to the side of the stock/barrel? It could be an optional Ambi mount, and work on either side. With a couple of obligatory WINGNUTS.

Now that you mention it, I did see a late 1800s Patent for a rifle/shotgun (can't remember which, but they were making some monster shotguns) that sat on a inverted U-shaped shoulder mount and was about equally balanced, and had some sort of sighting tube or sighting rail off to side, similar to Bazooka. Not sure what the benefit was supposed to be.

[pacrat]

Exactly 100% spot on correct. They even make oversize pins for those that don't lube there guns or those that shoot alot.
The lockup on the top is more important than the hingepin.

THE COMEDY CONTINUES ^^^ ^^^

Mr WINGNUT strikes again. Showing his total ignorance of the simple design FACT that THERE IS NO LOCKUP ON THE TOP.

EVERY aspect of lockup in the design. Is contained in the BARREL LUG. Which is welded to the ......WAIT FOR IT......

BOTTOM of the barrel. https://youtu.be/_NYFq7ZJg4c

The main controlling element of which is the PIN.

The BOLT, which is just a spring loaded plunger that snaps under a ledge in the breech face, to hold the action shut. Also applies strong forward TENSION to the LUG. Forcing the barrel against the PIN. The FIT between PIN and BREECH FACE. Is what governs "HEADSPACE".

Now a quick flashback to Post 86 regarding a FACT incorporated into ANY TOP BREAK design.

Sloppy pin = sloppy lockup = sloppy accuracy

Ignoring FACTS incorporated into the design. And repeated making COMEDIC comments such as this;

The press fit is only to keep the pin from falling out in the field

Regarding TOP BRK firearms designs.

Gives me, and most likely ALL, the knowledgeable firearms enthusiasts here. The impression that Mr Wingnut advocate. Has never even HELD, LOADED, or FIRED, let alone OWNED, a Contender. Or possibly any other top break rifle/pistol.

[five.five-six]

[pacrat]

YEP

Still having fun, poking holes in the HOT AIR baloon.

[Scotty]

The most basic flaw with OP's idea:
Cheap, light, or strong, pick 2. You can't have all 3.

[LynnJr]

Actually puckrat I do own the topper and the hingepin fit has never been an issue.
And speaking of accuracy I will put my shooting achievements up against yours any day of the week.
100 yards to 3000 yards just pick the venue.
And coming from a guy who thinks shortening a shell holder won't change anything.
Lolroflmao

[LynnJr]

Actually puckrat I do own the topper and the hingepin fit has never been an issue.
And speaking of accuracy I will put my shooting achievements up against yours any day of the week.
100 yards to 3000 yards just pick the venue.
And coming from a guy who thinks shortening a shell holder won't change anything.
Lolroflmao
On a $200 rifle your least concern is the hingepin.

[splithoof]

and 3) people who like odd guns like me.

Group 3 is insignificant, and the low price point actually hurts you because this group is willing to spend more but have more specific demands (what do you mean you don't offer factory barrels in 218 bee?!?!).

[Kestryll]

Do I seriously have to go through this thread, delete the childish bickering and start banning people because they can not communicate like adults?

You know, without the snide remarks, bickering and insults?

Because if I do I will be grumpy as all hell and that will add about 3 months to whatever ban I have to hand out.

[splithoof]

Do I seriously have to go through this thread, delete the childish bickering and start banning people because they can not communicate like adults?

You know, without the snide remarks, bickering and insults?

[W.R.Buchanan]

True, maybe $223 MSRP for AR-15 and $308 for the AR-10. But those would be really good kits with titanium frame stocks, water proof fabric storage tubes with zip-lock closures and minimalist tubular plastic front hand guards with storage for 3 rounds and water proof cap. Totally expedition rated.

CAD files can get sent anywhere and even oldest cheapest CAM machines could make the barrel-block and break action out of aluminum, and stamping/bending/cutting sheet metal is nearly free (except for the titanium material). Its REALLY cheap if farmed out to China or India but don't expect quick or reliable turn around, and don't bet your life it will be done right the first time.

I'm also kinda wondering what the legalities of importing "the gun" (part to be DROS) into USA is. Maybe have to do a 80% which in this case would be probably drilling one non-critical hole.

How do they figure what is "80%"??? Number of "operations", or number of holes or amount of material removed???

I think you have a serious misunderstanding about what Machine Shop Rates are. Mine is $150/ hr. minimum.

I would also state that 'You can make anything work in your head. Real world not so much.

If you are thinking about farming out Weapons Systems Parts to China I would seriously encourage you to STFU! You don't know what you are talking about and it will land you in jail! ATF Govt Trolls are looking for this exact type of thing.

First rule of dealing with the FBI,,, "Don't talk to the FBI!"


Randy