Remington quality

[boyguan]

If the screws are the correct length and the action isn't threaded correctly the action would have been loose in the stock wouldn't it?

You mentioned buildup what is that?
And there are only 4 full turns on a Remington 700 front action screw before it makes contact with the bolt. The picture is of 2 brand new 700 actions with a piece of tape on the front screw so I can count the number of turns.

[DueceMcGurk]

+1 Jack Ellis. Send it back.

[ar15barrels]

Maybe I said it wrong.

The threads on the action side are not clean.
They have buildup which causes the screws to not thread all the way in.

The supplied screws are fine in length

Are you saying the screws don't tighten the action to the stock?
If the threads are too shallow and the screws are of the proper length to thread all the way through the reciever, the screws would BOTTOM out before they got tight and the action would be loose in the stock when the screws are tightened..

[ar15barrels]

If the threads aren't holding, it might mean the holes were drilled oversize or the threads weren't cut properly and in that case the action screws will not hold properly even when everything is cleaned up.

He had to loosen the screws to take the action out of the stock.
That means they were holding.

[ar15barrels]

The action was machined and then a finish was applied. Not sure what it is. But what happened was that finish (let’s say anodizing) it gets into the threads which will make them a bit tighter. All I need to do is run a tap to clean up the build up and it will be good as new.

The actions are blued or black oxided unless it's an LE model then they are parkerized.
NONE of those finishes cause the screws to be tight as there is no measurable buildup.

What you are probably seeing is simply powder debris, grime, dirt and cleaning chemicals leftover from use.

[LynnJr]

Thanks for the info on 4 turns. I’m getting about 1.5.

I just need to chases the threads to clean it up. I don’t want to use the screws to clean it up.

If you go 4 full turns on the front action screw you are very close to touching the bolt. If you go 4.5 turns the bolt won't close if it's open and it won't open if it's closed.l
I am inletting some bottom metal right now for 2 BillyGoat Machine 338's and I buy the extra long bolts.
Once everything is inletted,bedded and cured I will tighten down both bolts then count the number of turns.
You can then grind the bolts to just at 4 turns then run them across a Deburring wheel to polish them smooth.

I inlet my own stocks by hand not with a milling machine so I purposely want the screws a touch short in case tightening them down crushes a high spot on the bedding block or stock.

As Randall posted that front action screw goes all the way through the action and is directly under the locking lug. As you rotate the bolt it pushes every bit of debris into the bolt hole where it accumulates over time.
It's always a good idea to run a tap through the hole to remove whatever has built up.
Another thing to look for when swapping stocks/chassis is stuff hitting the barrel.
These 338's shoot one hole groups so if they start acting up something is wrong.
In my case I am loading for hunting season and the bipod and sling swivel studs are now hitting the barrel. I will grind them down and both of these monsters should drive tacks.
Notice how thin the stocks forend is to accommodate the big barrel.

[Pofoo]

Before running a tap, I would try to clean the threads. A can of spray brake cleaner and a pic or paper clip, etc.
Sometimes a slightly oversized tap will give you loose connection.\Sometimes you can just tighten, loosen, tighten the bolt a few times to clean it up.

[boyguan]

If you go 4 full turns on the front action screw you are very close to touching the bolt. If you go 4.5 turns the bolt won't close if it's open and it won't open if it's closed.l
I am inletting some bottom metal right now for 2 BillyGoat Machine 338's and I buy the extra long bolts.
Once everything is inletted,bedded and cured I will tighten down both bolts then count the number of turns.
You can then grind the bolts to just at 4 turns then run them across a Deburring wheel to polish them smooth.

I inlet my own stocks by hand not with a milling machine so I purposely want the screws a touch short in case tightening them down crushes a high spot on the bedding block or stock.

As Randall posted that front action screw goes all the way through the action and is directly under the locking lug. As you rotate the bolt it pushes every bit of debris into the bolt hole where it accumulates over time.
It's always a good idea to run a tap through the hole to remove whatever has built up.
Another thing to look for when swapping stocks/chassis is stuff hitting the barrel.
These 338's shoot one hole groups so if they start acting up something is wrong.
In my case I am loading for hunting season and the bipod and sling swivel studs are now hitting the barrel. I will grind them down and both of these monsters should drive tacks.
Notice how thin the stocks forend is to accommodate the big barrel.

[boyguan]

Just to update.

I used a thread gage and checked the thread in the action. The front one did not accept and the rear was fine.

I chased the front thread which was very easy and the gage is fine now.

Interesting find.