Copper Ammo for Rem LTR .308

[Boswell]

I have a Remington LTR .308 that I have been shooting Federal Premium 175 grain Sierra Matchking BTHP Gold Medal Match ammo. I hunt hogs and occasionally deer and this ammo shoots well in my rifle. However, I need to start switching over to copper ammo to comply with the new hunting regulations. Have any of you found a particular copper ammo brand that shoots similar to the Federal Premium where there isn't that much difference between the two? Any help and recommendations on copper ammo brands that you have tried will certainly be appreciated.

[Dirtlaw]

Interested in answers to OP question

[JackEllis]

My experience doesn't precisely address your question but it still may be worth sharing.

I used to shoot 150 grain Remington Core-Lokts in a .30-06. When I began reloading, the first cartridge I tried was the .30-06 using 150 grain Hornady GMX bullets. Took my reloads out to the range with the friend who walked me through the basics. Couldn't hit paper. At all.

It turns out that at 100 yards there's a 6" vertical difference in the point of impact between the two rounds that I have been unable to find an explanation for. It also turns out the GMX shoot 6" higher than Hornady SSTs loaded with the same amount (52 grains) of the same powder (IMR 4064).

I'd get a box of Hornady factory ammo and a box of Barnes factory ammo and compare them with what you're shooting now. You might have better luck than I did with POIs that vary with the type of ammo but you won;t know until you try them in your rifle.

[splithoof]

I've shot a bunch of hogs using .308 rifles for years, and one of the absolute best copper bullets is the Barnes TSX, either tipped or not. The 168 grain loading I use exhibits accuracy on par with the 168 grain Sierra Match Kings, and that is from a variety of quality rifles.
I believe Barnes also produces the same bullet in a 175 grain version, so you have options. If you don't reload, several brands of premium factory ammunition come loaded with the above bullets.
If you reload (and for your rifle you can produce some very accurate ammo), the .308 with Barnes bullets is a great way to optimize accuracy.

[ar15barrels]

I can't help you with any factory ammo suggestions as I don't buy any factory lead free rifle or pistol ammo.
I reload my own.

I tried the 165gr Hornady GMX in my 308 pig gun and they shot very well over a moderate load of varget.
I only shot 2 groups, but both were under 1moa at 100yds with my scope turned all the way up to 3x.
That's way tighter than I need for pigs so I just left it alone.
Now I just need to get a pig to appear in my scope...

[estrom]

I've used GMX with success. Barnes are awesome too. But if you're currently shooting Federal, why not start with Federal Trophy Copper and go from there?

[chirohunter]

Op....are you asking for a copper brand that will allow you to switch between copper and Federal Premium without re-zeroing your scope? If so, I dont know if that is a realistic request. If you are looking for an accurate copper option, then you may need to try different brands and different bullet weights. Dont forget that what my Remington LTR likes in brand and weight may differ from what your Remington LRT likes. All of my hunting rifles have shot Barnes ttsx and tsx very well (accurately) ..some rifles slightly better then others while still being satisfactory for hunting. I would start with Barnes ttsx (the favorite of many) then move to one of the other brands if your rifle doesn't like the Barnes. For .308 I prefer ttsx 130gr and 150gr

[NapalmCheese]

A note on switching between monolithic bullets and lead bullets.

If you switch from a gilding metal jacketed lead bullet (SMK) to a 100% copper bullet (Barnes mostly) you will need to decopper your barrel BEFORE you shoot for groups.

If you switch from a gilding metal jacketed lead bullet to a gilding metal monolithic bullet (E-tip, GMX, etc.) I don't think you need to, my limited experience tells me you don't have to decopper your bore.

If you switch from a copper jacketed lead bullet (Swift) to a 100% copper lead bullet, you may or may not need to scrub your bore, I don't know.

However, when going from a gilding metal jacket to a 100% copper bullet, scrub and decopper your bore before before shooting groups. My guns typically only take 1 or 2 100% copper bullets to 'foul in' a pristine bore.

Also, if I were you, I'd just forget about trying to find a factory load that matches your 175 SMK load and focus on choosing a light weight for caliber monolithic load that shoots good groups at the upper end of the velocity range (factory or not).

[Divernhunter]

The Swift and Barnes can be shot without cleaning the barrel in between brands. I do that often. But if I shoot a bullet that is not pure copper or pure copper jacket then I need to super clean the barrel before shooting pure copper again.

Cleaning means real cleaning and not #9.

[Magilla26]

In my Mod. 700 in .308 I have had the best luck with W748 powder behind a 150 grain TSX.

[Divernhunter]

^^^ I use the same powder with the 150gr TTSX or a 130gr TTSX. I prefer the 130gr in the 308win as I get great terminal performance, higher speeds(that help performance) and less recoil in a light weight(5.75 lbs) custom rifle.

[splithoof]

Yes, 748 works well in the .308 with 168 TSX also.
Lately I have been using IMR 4451 Enduron, and in a bunch of Scout configured rifles one load works very well in all of them. I have yet to shoot the same animal twice; with proper placement of the TSX (or T-TSX), they drop very quickly.

[Fjold]

A note on switching between monolithic bullets and lead bullets.

If you switch from a gilding metal jacketed lead bullet (SMK) to a 100% copper bullet (Barnes mostly) you will need to decopper your barrel BEFORE you shoot for groups.

If you switch from a gilding metal jacketed lead bullet to a gilding metal monolithic bullet (E-tip, GMX, etc.) I don't think you need to, my limited experience tells me you don't have to decopper your bore.

If you switch from a copper jacketed lead bullet (Swift) to a 100% copper lead bullet, you may or may not need to scrub your bore, I don't know.

However, when going from a gilding metal jacket to a 100% copper bullet, scrub and decopper your bore before before shooting groups. My guns typically only take 1 or 2 100% copper bullets to 'foul in' a pristine bore.

Also, if I were you, I'd just forget about trying to find a factory load that matches your 175 SMK load and focus on choosing a light weight for caliber monolithic load that shoots good groups at the upper end of the velocity range (factory or not).

I switch between jacketed bullets and Barnes bullets all the time without any special cleaning in about half a dozen different rifles and have never had an issue.

But, of course there are much more experienced hunters than me on here who will tell you differently.

[Divernhunter]

Fjold---I respect you as a hunter and shooter. However on this point I have seen the difference in my own rifles. I have had people ask me about that and they were getting poor results until they did a real cleaning of the rifle. Then it shot well. I have worked a lot with the Barnes(and Swift) bullets and found that the cleaning helps not only on accuracy(especially after many shots) but that cleaning the firearm is much less work when I start with the cleaning I have shown many people.

I respect you and your position but must respectably say we must disagree on this. I know you do a lot of hunting as do I. I suspect we both have been hunting for a long time and for other than just deer/pigs.

[NapalmCheese]

I switch between jacketed bullets and Barnes bullets all the time without any special cleaning in about half a dozen different rifles and have never had an issue.

But, of course there are much more experienced hunters than me on here who will tell you differently.

Hasn't been my experience in fewer than half a dozen rifles. Not cleaning your bore is the easier option, which is great if it works for you.