Questions about assembling a Remage in 6 mm. BR

[Khromo]

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ptg-blueprinted-short-action-combo-s-700/9281-extreme-remington-700-short-action-sa-blue-printed-action-bolt-fp-assy.html

[RandyD]

I have also built a 6mmbr rifle. I used a Krieger barrel, and put it on a Stiller Predator Action, but I did not use the Rem/Age option. It is an simple job to remove and replace a barrel. Since the barrel has to be chambered by a machinist, having it headspaced, to my action, at the same time makes sense to me. Then there is no need for a Rem/Age option.

According to this article, a 6mmbr barrel should give you 2200-3000 rounds of performance http://www.6mmbr.com/barrelcost.html

[buffybuster]

1. Since the PTG action includes their bolt I would think that's a pretty fair deal. Especially if you don't already have a donor action.
2. The standard ".308Win" boltface diameter is what you need (0.473"-ish)
3. Definitely go with the smaller FP hole.
4. Muzzlebrake not necessary but will make it easier to spot your impacts in positional shooting. $200 to thread, time and blend the brake; that's fair.
5. Bolt fluting is pretty much cosmetic.

Recommend getting an 8-twist barrel.

[Khromo]

...Since the barrel has to be chambered by a machinist, having it headspaced, to my action, at the same time makes sense to me...http://www.6mmbr.com/barrelcost.html

I'm not aware of anybody in the San Diego area who does this kind of work. Considering my intended use and skill level, shipping or traveling to find a smith doesn't seem like something that is worth the effort to me. Hence the Remage option.

I figure for $1,000 to $1,600, I can get decent components for a rifle that is right for me, and the tools I would need to handle the inevitable barrel swaps.

At the rate I shoot, I figure I will have 3,000 rounds on my first barrel before Christmas, so swapping the NSS barrel in my garage looks like the best solution for me, at this point in my life!

[Khromo]

1. Since the PTG action includes their bolt I would think that's a pretty fair deal. Especially if you don't already have a donor action.
2. The standard ".308Win" boltface diameter is what you need (0.473"-ish)
3. Definitely go with the smaller FP hole.
4. Muzzlebrake not necessary but will make it easier to spot your impacts in positional shooting. $200 to thread, time and blend the brake; that's fair.
5. Bolt fluting is pretty much cosmetic.

Recommend getting an 8-twist barrel.

Thanks, bb. That's what I figured.

I've got a (left-handed!) Rem 700 Youth in .243 I could use for a donor action, but I figure I'm probably better off selling that rifle as it is, and putting the funds toward this project.

NSS sells the Criterion 6 mm. Remage barrels with 1-8" as their standard twist, so that should work out fine for me!

[longrange1]

if your looking for best accuracy/consistency id suggest you skip the barrel nut and use a better barrel.

[bsumoba]

OP, you don't need a remage setup for switchbarreling. Just buy a barrel vice, action wrench and torque wrench. You can get everything here. http://www.pmatool.com/action-wrench...mithing-tools/

I just c-clamp my vice to a sturdy table, use a long arm socket wrench and loosen the barrel (factory barrels require a lot of force to break them apart from the action).

If you have a true'd action or a custom action, and your smith did a good job with the chamber job, you won't really need to do much. Just spin off the old one, and install the new one. Use something like 75 ft lbs and you're good. No need to constantly check and adjust with a go/no go gauge.

I can do a barrel swap in a few minutes. It is as easy as this below. He just "snaps" the barrel in place, which I have done many times. The headspacing does not change if I "snap" it in place or if I torque it down to 75 ft lbs.

I would also maybe look into a 6 Dasher if you are thinking about a 6BR. 6BR is easier because of no fireforming, but the 6 Dasher is quite accurate all the way out to 1K yards, especially when there is little wind. Lots of records being broken with this cartridge.

The 6BR is capable out to 1K as well, but the less speed does put more of an emphasis on wind calling.

I am partial to Brux or Bartlein barrels in a heavy palma or heavy varmint contour for your application, in maybe a 28" barrel. No brake. I typically use 1.25" straight contour barrels or 1.25" taper to 1.00" in a 30" barrel for my F-Class mid-range set up.

Barrel removal


Barrel installation

[RandyD]

I'm not aware of anybody in the San Diego area who does this kind of work. Considering my intended use and skill level, shipping or traveling to find a smith doesn't seem like something that is worth the effort to me. Hence the Remage option.

I figure for $1,000 to $1,600, I can get decent components for a rifle that is right for me, and the tools I would need to handle the inevitable barrel swaps.

At the rate I shoot, I figure I will have 3,000 rounds on my first barrel before Christmas, so swapping the NSS barrel in my garage looks like the best solution for me, at this point in my life!

Look at bsumoba's post. He his suggesting the same procedure that I suggested. Changing a barrel is easy. You just need a barrel vise and action wrench. He suggests also using a torque wrench, but I don't use one, since I only take a barrel off to replace it. Since you are wanting a 6mmbr cartridge, I assume you are looking for accuracy. I am not aware of any benchrest shooters that use the Rem/Age set up, so I would recommend using a barrel that is machined for your specific action.

As far as local gunsmiths, send a PM to kcstott. He regularly posts in the gunsmithing forum and he his located in National City. He installed a muzzle brake on my 6mmbr and did an excellent job. Also, you may want to consider Randall Rausch, he posts under the name of ar15barrels, he is located in Van Nuys and also regularly posts in the gunsmithing forum.

I decided to use a muzzle brake on my 6mmbr, so that I could spot my shots through my scope. My 6mmbr is a walking varmint gun. I selected a muzzle brake by Harrell.

[russ69]

Switch barrel REMs are very common. The gunsmith will just stamp alignment marks on the receiver and barrel. Twist on, twist off.

[killshot44]

The PT&G action can be had with (I think) the smaller firing pin and the hole in the bolt face is bushed.

Out to 600yds you won't be disappointed with the 6BR. Load with CCI-450 primers and Varget or Reloader15 and off you go.

I agree that a machined tenon that's single-cut and matches your receiver makes for simple barrel changes. You have more flexibility with barrel choices this way, too.,

Go ahead and buy two barrels now and have both chambered and fitted at the same time.

[Switchbarrel]

What I don't see listed in the PT&G description is any mention of a recoil lug & whether or not they drill the face of the action to allow the use of a pinned recoil lug?

I swap plenty of barrels around, but it's all on custom or Savage actions (which use a pin as well). It is my understanding that the Remington recoil lugs are not pinned...? A minor inconvenience but, worth mentioning. Adding in the cost of a lug, pinning &/or tool to locate the lug in the correct spot & you are dangerously close to the cost of a custom action. You would also want/need a "Go" gauge to set your headspace with the REMAGE setup. Not necessary if a gunsmith does a conventional shouldered barrel for you (although more expensive than a "GO" gauge.

1. Maybe. Personally, I would look for one of the less expensive, Remington clone custom actions.

2 & 3. Yes

4. Not a lot of difference on a 6BR. Having both, I like brakes even though they are louder.

5. It does look nice. Personal preference there.


The REMAGE will do what you're trying to achieve. LOTS of good reports on Criterion barrels.

Unsolicited 2 cents:

Since you're not talking about rapid-fire, PRS style competition, I would seriously consider looking for a Savage target action if cost is a major concern.

For what YOU WANT TO DO (not ANY of us replying to you), "informal target shooting to 300 yards", change barrels at home, etc. It will get the job done at a reasonable price. The single shot action, floating bolthead & multiple port configurations available make it a really good value (for all the Savage haters out there, I did not say "the best action out there").

[Mr. Patis]

For what it's worth...i was getting this type of grouping out of my 6.5cr remage

[LynnJr]

If you already have a 700 action I would use it and save yourself $700.
If you go with the PT&G action definitely get the 0.484 boltface and the 0.062 firing pin.
The smaller firing pin lets you load the 6BR to some very impressive numbers.
The 6BR is ballistically the same as a 300 Winchester Magnum shooting 190 Sierras except for energy.
Ken Mr Sacramento Schroeder has been shooting several 6BR's for 20 years now at 1000 yards without any problems and he has got to be 90+ years old.

[ar15barrels]

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ptg-blueprinted-short-action-combo-s-700/9281-extreme-remington-700-short-action-sa-blue-printed-action-bolt-fp-assy.html

I've got a (left-handed!) Rem 700 Youth in .243 I could use for a donor action, but I figure I'm probably better off selling that rifle as it is, and putting the funds toward this project.

Just buy a PTG 0.484" bolt, 0.062" firing pin, extractor and a 0.228" parallel side recoil lug and use the action you have.
Measure your receiver's raceway with pin gauges and then go 0.002" to 0.003" undersized and the new bolt will fit much better than the old stock bolt.
The PTG 700 actions are NOT fully trued.
They might skim the receiver face and the lug abutments, but they do NOT re-cut the threads so they are not actually "true" like a receiver that has been properly trued.

If you did have a fully trued receiver, then you can't use any of the barrel-nut system barrels as your receiver would need a barrel properly fitted to it with larger threads to match your receiver.

A blended muzzle brake is purely cosmetics.
Any decent muzzle brake will make the gun nicer to shoot, though a 6mm BR probably benefits less from a brake than a larger caliber rifle does.

I do not recommend fluted bolts. Some of the fluting designs leave a sharp edge to the fluting and that edge will shave brass off of the top cartridge (that is pressed up against the underside of the bolt by the magazine spring) as you rotate the bolt.

If you want a properly trued receiver, I can do the truing, fitting/lapping of the new PTG bolt and fit a barrel all in a single-day appointment so you only need to drive up to LA once a year.

[ar15barrels]

What I don't see listed in the PT&G description is any mention of a recoil lug & whether or not they drill the face of the action to allow the use of a pinned recoil lug?

PTG does not pin the lugs or drill a hole in the receiver for a lug to be pinned.

Remington does not pin the lugs either.
There are lug alignment fixtures that hold the lug in alignment while you tighten the barrel.
Those are fine if you are just dropping the action into a chassis, but pinning the lug is definitely a requirement for someone who wants to switch barrels and wants to have a full epoxy bedding job.