General precision gun setup

[longrange1]

ive shot rifles most of my life but only got into the precision end of it about 10yrs ago. i watched a video on you tube one day and i think they were shooting 375 cheytacs at 3200 or 3600yds and i was hooked...may have been 338 lapuas i dont remember exactly.

i started looking at different rifles and cals and ended up with a savage 110BA in 300wm because as i found out i didnt have the money needed to play with the big boys. but i did start reloading from day 3...i bought everything i needed to get started loading.
i shot 3 boxes of factory ammo to break in the factory barrel LOL and started loading the brass.

[milotrain]

I have anecdotal evidence to suggest that break in is actually important for longevity and ease of cleaning (but not accuracy). In the case that it makes sense it only makes sense if you are getting all the copper out after every single shot during break in, and you are only using chemicals to do so. That's a long damn day of break in, but not a high round count. You stop when it's no longer taking long soaks to get the copper out, and you need a borescope to show you if you are doing it right.

I think in the vast majority of cases break in is not necessary until one day it is. It's like a lot of things in other competition shooting disciplines just get started with what information and tools you have because as you progress your needs will dictate what you do/buy, and if you wait to have all the information you'll never start or you'll start with a lot of the wrong kit and it'll be expensive. When you start with what you have you'll have all the wrong kit as well but at least it was cheap.

[longrange1]

I have anecdotal evidence to suggest that break in is actually important for longevity and ease of cleaning (but not accuracy). In the case that it makes sense it only makes sense if you are getting all the copper out after every single shot during break in, and you are only using chemicals to do so. That's a long damn day of break in, but not a high round count. You stop when it's no longer taking long soaks to get the copper out, and you need a borescope to show you if you are doing it right.

I think in the vast majority of cases break in is not necessary until one day it is. It's like a lot of things in other competition shooting disciplines just get started with what information and tools you have because as you progress your needs will dictate what you do/buy, and if you wait to have all the information you'll never start or you'll start with a lot of the wrong kit and it'll be expensive. When you start with what you have you'll have all the wrong kit as well but at least it was cheap.

This makes a LOT of sense...I've spent a ton of money on stuff I don't even have anymore and sold for half of what I paid for it.

The things I'd suggest you don't skimp on is a press,dies and a scale...those are the three things your always going to have so you may as well start with quality.


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[jrpowell3]

I have anecdotal evidence to suggest that break in is actually important for longevity and ease of cleaning (but not accuracy). In the case that it makes sense it only makes sense if you are getting all the copper out after every single shot during break in, and you are only using chemicals to do so. That's a long damn day of break in, but not a high round count. You stop when it's no longer taking long soaks to get the copper out, and you need a borescope to show you if you are doing it right.

I think in the vast majority of cases break in is not necessary until one day it is. It's like a lot of things in other competition shooting disciplines just get started with what information and tools you have because as you progress your needs will dictate what you do/buy, and if you wait to have all the information you'll never start or you'll start with a lot of the wrong kit and it'll be expensive. When you start with what you have you'll have all the wrong kit as well but at least it was cheap.

That's all excellent advice. And as for what you say regarding break in, I'm not a rich man, so increased longevity would be useful

[jrpowell3]

This makes a LOT of sense...I've spent a ton of money on stuff I don't even have anymore and sold for half of what I paid for it.

The things I'd suggest you don't skimp on is a press,dies and a scale...those are the three things your always going to have so you may as well start with quality.


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Indeed. I always opt for quality over price when I can

[milotrain]

Your first fancy cut rifled barrel you can break in with Montana-Xtreme BMG, soaking and patching until you don't get any more copper after every shot. Don't waste your time with the factory barrel you have.

The things I'd suggest you don't skimp on is a press,dies and a scale...those are the three things your always going to have so you may as well start with quality.

With a Rem700 SPS in 308 get a good O press (redding, lee classic cast, RCBS) an RCBS Chargemaster, a Forster Competition Micrometer seating die, and a Redding full length S die.

[longrange1]

Your first fancy cut rifled barrel you can break in with Montana-Xtreme BMG, soaking and patching until you don't get any more copper after every shot. Don't waste your time with the factory barrel you have.

agree...Montana-Xtreme BMG is the best copper remover made IMHO and ive tried just about everything out at one time or another. my second choice would be the wipe-out products their bore foam works pretty well and dont have the smell the wife complains about with the montana.

With a Rem700 SPS in 308 get a good O press (redding, lee classic cast, RCBS) an RCBS Chargemaster, a Forster Competition Micrometer seating die, and a Redding full length S die.

i used a redding big boss 2 for 9yrs and the first part of this year came across a deal on a Co-ax.
i had a CM for a few weeks several years ago(before i knew i could not hold well enough to notice a .2g difference in powder)and ended up taking it back.

i do have a Scott Parker beam that i bought about 2 years after i started loading and ive gotten fast enough that i doubt ill buy another charge master.

i also prefer the forster dies over redding they feel a little smoother to me when sizing. when i switched to the 6CM a few months ago i bought widden dies and they are very nice dies.

[bsumoba]

agree...Montana-Xtreme BMG is the best copper remover made IMHO and ive tried just about everything out at one time or another. my second choice would be the wipe-out products their bore foam works pretty well and dont have the smell the wife complains about with the montana.

Boretech Carbon along with the Copper is the best I've used. I've "wipe'd out" my barrel and left it soaking for 12+ hours, along the way, adding more in there with a nylon brush (trying to minimize the scrubbing effect to see whether or not you can truly put it in the bore and let the chemicals do its thing). After doing that then patching it out, I used some Boretech products and man did I lose confidence in the wipe out stuff really quickly.

Now, I use wipe out to get the bulk of the stuff out of my bore, then finish with the bore tech stuff to save that solvent.

i used a redding big boss 2 for 9yrs and the first part of this year came across a deal on a Co-ax.
when i switched to the 6CM a few months ago i bought widden dies and they are very nice dies.

Co-Ax is my favorite and I've used quite a few. It has the best mechanical sizing action IMO, does up to 338 Edge well, and it allows the die to float. It also has a priming system which does great for those tight pockets lapua has from the factory. My hands don't hurt anymore. I've since switched to a RCBS Automatic Priming tool. Another great investment.

http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Equipment+(Not+Presses)-_-RCBS-_-457599&gclid=Cj0KEQiAperBBRDfuMf72sr56fIBEiQAPFXszWxA54JVlk6tqEe-7CMxg7ecy_X65lXVDnrDfyUA2KMaAvvY8P8HAQ

Press: Forster Co-Ax
Dies: Whidden Custom
Priming System: Forster or RCBS Auto Priming
Trimmer: Giraud
Annealer: Benchsource
Scale: Lee Perfect Powder Measures and final weigh and trickle on a A&D FX120i

I've been using Whidden off-the-shelf dies, then switched to custom dies with Whidden after a couple years. Now, my dies are PERFECT for my chambering after I figured out exactly what I want. 5-6 week leadtime with Whidden is what I experienced and John Whidden contacted me personally on both dies to make sure they understood what I wanted. Not to mention, I got to pick his brain a bit from the current NRA LR Highpower Champion. And...you'll be surprised at his reloading process. Let's just say that matches are won on the range, not in the reloading room.

[LynnJr]

HighPower matches are won on the range.
In Benchrest shooting it's a reloading duel to see who can create the smallest groups possible.
Two different disciplines two different goals. Also why HighPower shooters want to know there standard deviation and why Benchrest shooters only want to know there extreme spread.

I use GM Top Engine Cleaner for the carbon fouling available at your local Chevy dealer or from Bruno Shooters Supply right next door to McMillan Gunstocks.

On the copper 50BMG Extreme or 28% ammonia gets the nod and you can't use it inside ever!!!! Not even in a large warehouse.
And Nylon brushes should never be used on a firearm with one exception. The only exception would be on dueling pistols.
In a duel your opponent should use nylon brushes.

[bsumoba]

HighPower matches are won on the range.
In Benchrest shooting it's a reloading duel to see who can create the smallest groups possible.

Take the wind reading skills of highpower and the precision of BR and you got....F Class.

[longrange1]

Boretech Carbon along with the Copper is the best I've used. I've "wipe'd out" my barrel and left it soaking for 12+ hours, along the way, adding more in there with a nylon brush (trying to minimize the scrubbing effect to see whether or not you can truly put it in the bore and let the chemicals do its thing). After doing that then patching it out, I used some Boretech products and man did I lose confidence in the wipe out stuff really quickly.

Now, I use wipe out to get the bulk of the stuff out of my bore, then finish with the bore tech stuff to save that solvent.



Co-Ax is my favorite and I've used quite a few. It has the best mechanical sizing action IMO, does up to 338 Edge well, and it allows the die to float. It also has a priming system which does great for those tight pockets lapua has from the factory. My hands don't hurt anymore. I've since switched to a RCBS Automatic Priming tool. Another great investment.

http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Equipment+(Not+Presses)-_-RCBS-_-457599&gclid=Cj0KEQiAperBBRDfuMf72sr56fIBEiQAPFXszWxA54JVlk6tqEe-7CMxg7ecy_X65lXVDnrDfyUA2KMaAvvY8P8HAQ

Press: Forster Co-Ax
Dies: Whidden Custom
Priming System: Forster or RCBS Auto Priming
Trimmer: Giraud
Annealer: Benchsource
Scale: Lee Perfect Powder Measures and final weigh and trickle on a A&D FX120i

I've been using Whidden off-the-shelf dies, then switched to custom dies with Whidden after a couple years. Now, my dies are PERFECT for my chambering after I figured out exactly what I want. 5-6 week leadtime with Whidden is what I experienced and John Whidden contacted me personally on both dies to make sure they understood what I wanted. Not to mention, I got to pick his brain a bit from the current NRA LR Highpower Champion. And...you'll be surprised at his reloading process. Let's just say that matches are won on the range, not in the reloading room.

ive never tried the boretech products as ive been pretty happy with the 50BMG. i dont clean that much but if i ever run outta the 50BMG i will have to try the boretech.

john is a real nice guy to talk to and a wealth of knowledge,i spoke with him for about 15mins when i ordered my dies.
i really like the K&M primer with the gauge and is what ive been using for 6yrs or so.
im still in the dark age with annealing but may buy a anneal easy this year..this is the set up ive been using for 7-8yrs..



my trimmer is a forster original with the 3-way head and i run it with a drill.

HighPower matches are won on the range.
In Benchrest shooting it's a reloading duel to see who can create the smallest groups possible.
Two different disciplines two different goals. Also why HighPower shooters want to know there standard deviation and why Benchrest shooters only want to know there extreme spread.

I use GM Top Engine Cleaner for the carbon fouling available at your local Chevy dealer or from Bruno Shooters Supply right next door to McMillan Gunstocks.

On the copper 50BMG Extreme or 28% ammonia gets the nod and you can't use it inside ever!!!! Not even in a large warehouse.
And Nylon brushes should never be used on a firearm with one exception. The only exception would be on dueling pistols.
In a duel your opponent should use nylon brushes.

as far as i know the GM TEC was discontinued,ill have to give brunos a call...i had a half a can of the TEC when i first started loading and it is great carbon remover...ive been using mercury power tune and it works good,not as good as TEC but close.

[longrange1]

Take the wind reading skills of highpower and the precision of BR and you got....F Class.

take all that and add in some cardio mixed with heavy breathing,unstable shooting positions,120 seconds to get off 10-15 rounds at 4 distances and that Fn clock ticking in the back of your mind and you have a PRS/tactical match!! gotta love the pressure LOL!

[jrpowell3]

So, for precision reloading, single stage presses are the only way to go, I take it.

[longrange1]

IMHO yes.

[jrpowell3]

I was considering getting a progressive press for my first reloading setup. I'm one of those people that say buy once, cry once. Quality is quality.