Bedding- it does make a difference!!

[ar15barrels]

Thanks Randall. I read it again and it makes sense.

You can see from the thickness of the bedding from the recoil lug forward the gun was never really supported anywhere in front of the trigger block. The bottom of the recoil lug was not touching the stock. The whole front of the action and barrel were resting on the front of the stock with nothing underneath to reduce sag and tension. The assembly was heldin place in a bowed state by one bolt. No wonder it acted squirrelly!! Now it's cozy in a pair of epoxy socks.

You don't actually want the bottom or sides of the recoil lug touching the stock on a round receiver.
What's most important is for pillars around the screws to support the receiver.

On flat bottom actions, the whole bottom should be supported by epoxy with pillars around the action screws.

[JTROKS]

Randall, On a heavy barrel Rem 700 such as PSS and Varmint models, how far in front of the lug do you bed to support the barrel?

[ar15barrels]

Randall, On a heavy barrel Rem 700 such as PSS and Varmint models, how far in front of the lug do you bed to support the barrel?

I don't do epoxy bedding jobs.
My bedding guy goes about 3/4" forward on request, but then you can't switch barrels without re-doing that area at every barrel swap.

[JTROKS]

I'm used to bedding 1.5" forward recoil lug with sporter barrels. In doing an experiment with my PSS as I bedded 2" forward the recoil lug. I can always grind off .5" at a time to see how it reacts. So far the 2" turned my .75 MOA proven Rem 700 PSS into a 3.5"

Can't wait for the rain to stop and test out 1.5" bedding front of recoil lug.

[ar15barrels]

In doing an experiment with my PSS as I bedded 2" forward the recoil lug. I can always grind off .5" at a time to see how it reacts. So far the 2" turned my .75 MOA proven Rem 700 PSS into a 3.5"

I will asssume that your experiment included bedding the whole receiver as well as out in front of the lug.
I would NEVER bed out in front of the lug if I was not doing the receiver as well.
Bedding ONLY out front would wreck the accuracy.

[JTROKS]

I will asssume that your experiment included bedding the whole receiver as well as out in front of the lug.
I would NEVER bed out in front of the lug if I was not doing the receiver as well.
Bedding ONLY out front would wreck the accuracy.

Yes the action is bedded. Here's the Rem 700.



I did my Winchester 70 HBV 22-250 and I bedded 2" in front of recoil lug. The rifle is sweet shooting bone stock with the trigger tuned to 1.5 lbs. It shot in the .4s and then the accuracy started getting erratic. Upon inspection the factory hot glue bedding cracked off. After I bedded it the accuracy is superb considering it still has the factory barrel. I've shot a high .2s five shot group.

Here's the Winnie 22-250.

[bubbapug1]

You don't actually want the bottom or sides of the recoil lug touching the stock on a round receiver.
What's most important is for pillars around the screws to support the receiver.

On flat bottom actions, the whole bottom should be supported by epoxy with pillars around the action screws.

I don't have any pillars around the screws, its just the bottom metal sandwiching the stock between the recoil lug up front and the rear tang in the back.

I am positive the recoil lug is now in full contact on the bottom, sides, back and front with the bedding. Why would that be an issue with a round receiver? I cannot it creating any more of a moment than if the gun was contacting a pillar?

I am happy with 1.5 moa, but I would be happier with 1 moa although I am not sure I can shoot it that tight with the recoil.

As to recoil, I was contemplating drilling a 1/2" hole in the exact rear center of the stock (from the back) and filling it with a slurry of #9 bird shot and JB weld. The reason I haven't done so is I am concerned the drill hole may decrease the compression strength and stability of the wood in recoil. While I lose some strength I also would be adding back a compound ever stronger than the wood, but would it actually join into the matrix of the grains and strengthen the rear stock or weaken it??

That's kind of a structural engineer question which I am sure has been addressed in normal construction.

Anyone have an answer for me?

[ar15barrels]

I don't have any pillars around the screws, its just the bottom metal sandwiching the stock between the recoil lug up front and the rear tang in the back.

I am positive the recoil lug is now in full contact on the bottom, sides, back and front with the bedding. Why would that be an issue with a round receiver? I cannot it creating any more of a moment than if the gun was contacting a pillar?

Most round receivers have a separate recoil lug.
The separate lug (and barrel) can move during each expansion/contraction cycle of firing.

Use a recoil lug ONLY to transfer recoil forces into the stock.
That means you don't want a moving lug/barrel to be pushing against the bedding differently than the rest of the receiver.
Isolating the sides/bottom of a separate recoil lug from the bedding job ensures that it will not contact the bedding with the minute movements inherent to a design using separate parts.

The fact that the barrel moves minutely in the receiver with each shot is also why I don't like bedding the barrel forward of the lug.

If the lug is integral to the receiver, then it will not move in relation to the receiver and we don't need to be concerned with clearancing it.
All of the flat bottom receivers that I have seen use a feature of the receiver as the recoil lug, or a bolted-on lug in a place that is not effected by the expansion/contraction cycle of firing.

[bubbapug1]

Randall I feel like I should be paying you for your advice.

There is no DOUBT in my mind the nikko barrel is rotating shot to shot for exactly the reasons described by Vaughn in RIFLE ACCUARCY. There appears to be room for play in barrel/recoil lug/receiver area. I'll snap a picture of it eventually.

[JohnCCW]

Aluminum pillars should be machined and epoxied in for all action screws. Normally barrel is free-floated a little beyond the recoil lug. No bedding more than a inch or two beyond the lug. Entire action bedded. This works best for heavy contour barrels. Light or short barrels may be OK with barrel bedding or Mannlicher style stocks.
Dump the wood stock completely if you're looking for maximum accuracy.

[bubbapug1]

Dump the wood stock completely if you're looking for maximum accuracy.

The objective is too keep the beautiful stock and gain accuracy. Not all barrels respond to being free floated.