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This is an old thread about bedding. The pics pretty much tell the story. I tried bedding and it fixed my gun. Here are the results
Here is a little write up about how my Nikko 375 went from 6 moa accuracy to 1.5 moa. I can't fathom how so much could be accomplished by bedding, but it happened.
A few months ago I was writing about a Nikko 375 H&H I had bought at an auction. The gun is beautiful, but would not shoot. I asked for recommendations on what the issue could be as I was stumped. The action seemed tight, the ammo was reloaded carefully or new Weatherby stuff, inletting appeared excellent, , and I double checked the scope after some initial issues, and it was solid as a rock (because I bedded it too)
I put at least 140 rounds down range, but alas, nothing worked and the gun was about to be used as firewood!
My shooting amigo kept telling me to bed the action and put a pressure point on the barrel at 2" back from the end of the stock...just like Weatherby does. The pressure point didn't help, and I also free floated the barrel. Nothing at all changed, but I still didn't bedded the action.
As you read the comments on my past thread there are many recommendations on possible fixes, and I appreciate the input. As many of you know, the Nikko has a rear locking bolt, and many individuals said forget the Nikko, it can NEVER be made accurate because the bolt flexes....well - Lee Enfield's are also rear locking, and are accurate guns, so I gritted my teeth and just got more frustrated and hopeless.
I read all I could about what guys were doing to bed their sporters. I finally gave up my stubborn streak, bought some Clear shoe polish, modeling clay, and JB weld.
After my research on sporters with 26" long whippy barrels I opted to go for bedding the barrel 3/4 of the way down fore stock, in the recoil lug area, at the front of the action and receiver area and joint, and the only solid area aft of the magazine inlet. I couldn't do the back tang on the Nikko. There just isn't any area solid enough to build bedding to.
So here is the finished product
From the Front - barrel is about 3/4 contained in the fore grip
Recoil lug area looking forward
Recoil lug - note the thinness on sidewalls, The inletting job was very good, but not good enough I guess!
Area just behind magazine well. The was the only area I could bed on the action besides the recoil lug...Note how thin the epoxy is on the sides again, not much to give, but enough to jack up the rifle.
I took the gun out yesterday to West end. I am glad to report it performed more like a real rifle. I shot two groups of 5 rounds each and the gun has gone from a 6 moa rifle to a 1.5 moa rifle. I didn't wait for the barrel to cool, or do any other protocol to help its chances. I held it tight, loose, on a hard bag, soft bag...it didn't really care. I tried different weight bullets, and while the POI was slightly different, the gun shot consistently!
So the bedding worked, although I am not sure why!!!!!
Man, what a PITA this whole process was, but at least now I have a accurate beautiful 375 for $800.00!!
So please, someone explain to me why this worked???
Start of the old thread from December....
Some of you have seen my thread about my struggles with a Nikko 375 H&H.
I changed scopes, mounts, loads, bases, etc. I can't get it to shoot less than an 8" group for five shots at 100 yards. That's unacceptable. I have a Rossi lever action with irons that does better than that.
Im really scratching my head here. The one other area I'm looking at is the stock. It's not a great fit. There's a big resin run underneath the foreend, and the one pillar mount is not what I would call rigid.
I just can't believe things could get so distorted between the action/scope and barrel to throw shots so far off. I had my 6mm br go off the deep end a few months back but that was due to thinner bullets not getting spun up in the larger 6mm bore. I've tried three different loads and Bullet types in this beast to no avail.
Can bedding the action really make a large difference in a guns accuracy? Could it be the stock action fit allows the gun to twist a bit putting the scope on a different poi shot to shot? I sometimes get two shots a 1/2" apart, than comes the flier 6 or 8" away.
Any ideas?
Here is a little write up about how my Nikko 375 went from 6 moa accuracy to 1.5 moa. I can't fathom how so much could be accomplished by bedding, but it happened.
A few months ago I was writing about a Nikko 375 H&H I had bought at an auction. The gun is beautiful, but would not shoot. I asked for recommendations on what the issue could be as I was stumped. The action seemed tight, the ammo was reloaded carefully or new Weatherby stuff, inletting appeared excellent, , and I double checked the scope after some initial issues, and it was solid as a rock (because I bedded it too)
I put at least 140 rounds down range, but alas, nothing worked and the gun was about to be used as firewood!
My shooting amigo kept telling me to bed the action and put a pressure point on the barrel at 2" back from the end of the stock...just like Weatherby does. The pressure point didn't help, and I also free floated the barrel. Nothing at all changed, but I still didn't bedded the action.
As you read the comments on my past thread there are many recommendations on possible fixes, and I appreciate the input. As many of you know, the Nikko has a rear locking bolt, and many individuals said forget the Nikko, it can NEVER be made accurate because the bolt flexes....well - Lee Enfield's are also rear locking, and are accurate guns, so I gritted my teeth and just got more frustrated and hopeless.
I read all I could about what guys were doing to bed their sporters. I finally gave up my stubborn streak, bought some Clear shoe polish, modeling clay, and JB weld.
After my research on sporters with 26" long whippy barrels I opted to go for bedding the barrel 3/4 of the way down fore stock, in the recoil lug area, at the front of the action and receiver area and joint, and the only solid area aft of the magazine inlet. I couldn't do the back tang on the Nikko. There just isn't any area solid enough to build bedding to.
So here is the finished product
From the Front - barrel is about 3/4 contained in the fore grip
Recoil lug area looking forward
Recoil lug - note the thinness on sidewalls, The inletting job was very good, but not good enough I guess!
Area just behind magazine well. The was the only area I could bed on the action besides the recoil lug...Note how thin the epoxy is on the sides again, not much to give, but enough to jack up the rifle.
I took the gun out yesterday to West end. I am glad to report it performed more like a real rifle. I shot two groups of 5 rounds each and the gun has gone from a 6 moa rifle to a 1.5 moa rifle. I didn't wait for the barrel to cool, or do any other protocol to help its chances. I held it tight, loose, on a hard bag, soft bag...it didn't really care. I tried different weight bullets, and while the POI was slightly different, the gun shot consistently!
So the bedding worked, although I am not sure why!!!!!
Man, what a PITA this whole process was, but at least now I have a accurate beautiful 375 for $800.00!!
So please, someone explain to me why this worked???
Start of the old thread from December....
Some of you have seen my thread about my struggles with a Nikko 375 H&H.
I changed scopes, mounts, loads, bases, etc. I can't get it to shoot less than an 8" group for five shots at 100 yards. That's unacceptable. I have a Rossi lever action with irons that does better than that.
Im really scratching my head here. The one other area I'm looking at is the stock. It's not a great fit. There's a big resin run underneath the foreend, and the one pillar mount is not what I would call rigid.
I just can't believe things could get so distorted between the action/scope and barrel to throw shots so far off. I had my 6mm br go off the deep end a few months back but that was due to thinner bullets not getting spun up in the larger 6mm bore. I've tried three different loads and Bullet types in this beast to no avail.
Can bedding the action really make a large difference in a guns accuracy? Could it be the stock action fit allows the gun to twist a bit putting the scope on a different poi shot to shot? I sometimes get two shots a 1/2" apart, than comes the flier 6 or 8" away.
Any ideas?
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