Stainless vs Blued

[LynnJr]

If you like the blued look like I do but prefer stainless steel barrels because they don't rust as quickly you can get your barrel Melonited which will make stainless steel black.
It runs $200 for a batch so do several barrels at the same time to cut down on the cost.
It is a surface hardening treatment so in theory your barrel should last longer as well.
Look up Joel Kendricks QPC coatings for more info but it is basically the same treatment as Nitriding a crankshaft in a race engine.

[MongooseV8]

Have you used melonite on any of your precision barrels? I know the process isn't supposed to change the bore much, but I'm curious on real world accuracy changes.

[hardlyworking]

For meloniting, I think I asked Randall one time about it and if I'm not mistaken he suggested to shoot a barrel a bit to wear down any high spots with the bullets you plan to use. Then clean the barrel well before doing the melonite.

If I remember right he's said sometimes it affects POI a bit, sometimes it doesn't.

Don't want to put words in his mouth, he may jump in to correct me.

I've used AR15Performance melonite barrels in .223 and 6.8 and been happy with the results, but Im NOT an expert.

I do personally like the blue/wood. Browning BLR calls to me, also the winchester low-wall case colored. mmm MMM!

Lynn do people ever melonite a receiver? It may not offer much real-world utility other than the rust prevention, and cosmetically matching a melonite barrel, but if you were spending $200 on a batch QPQ process one may as well throw it in the tank with the barrel, no?

[LynnJr]

I don't use Melonite on any of my barrels but my late shooting buddy John Crawford used it on a 6 Grendel he used to win the group portion of the NBRSA 600 Yard Nationals in heavygun class.
He went with the Melonite because he was running his 10 rounds downrange in under 40 seconds and thought it would help prevent throat erosion.

On the receivers I think BAT uses Melonite on some of there actions but don't quote me on that.
It makes the surface very hard so it slicks things up.

[FishnHunt]

Stainless for hunting rifle. Even you take care of your stuff.
I think some of these guys never been in NW/coast range.
you really want to be fussing with oiling your rifle after all day hunt? It doesn't take long on blued rifles to show surface rust that are not take care of right away.

[condor]

I like 'm both. The stainless/laminate for utilitarian purposes, and the blued with highly figured wood for looks. My 338RUM is stainless, and I figure if the poop hits the paddle I'll rattle can it black... :-)

[BillyGoatCrawler]

My junk gets used in all kinds of conditions even directly in the snow.

You've never gotten frostbite?

Stainless will never rust, just like going in the snow will give you frostbite...

LoL.

[Whiterabbit]

Which do you prefer and why?

In general? For a hunting rifle? If you could custom build for any purpose you wish?

Lend me your thoughts, but be sure to include the WHY, even if its just because you think it looks better.

Thanks!

Blue or brown and case color hardened, because it looks more traditional. For all guns.

Only exception would be if (if because I don't have this) I had a revolver that I planned to do double duty with, Black Powder Cartridge and smokeless mixed use, I would want a stainless gun just to make getting the BP out easier without worrying about the finish.

But with rust blue (my preferred blue) finishes are classical, handsome, tough, still easily repaired, and still important, a warm finish.

Stainless is cold, and proper gun chemicals do not damage blue anyways.

[Whiterabbit]

Stainless for hunting rifle. Even you take care of your stuff.
I think some of these guys never been in NW/coast range.
you really want to be fussing with oiling your rifle after all day hunt? It doesn't take long on blued rifles to show surface rust that are not take care of right away.

True, I don;t but I keep a rag of brain tanned leather with some proper oil applied, and a 7 second wipedown on all exterior surfaces covers the surface.

For those that don't want to take the time to get brain tanned leather, There's always a bottle of remoil wipes.

I'd do the same for a stainless gun to get grit off (my concern with blue guns anyways)

[Jimmy's]

Colorado, Utah, Oregon, California, my blued guns have never rusted even from one hunt that was 14 days in Oregon of rain and snow and you know of the weather and mud in Colorado , harsh conditions of high and low desert Mule deer hunting. Since 1974.

[FishnHunt]

Colorado, Utah, Oregon, California, my blued guns have never rusted even from one hunt that was 14 days in Oregon of rain and snow and you know of the weather and mud in Colorado , harsh conditions of high and low desert Mule deer hunting. Since 1974.

I try to keep my stuff clean, lightly oiled on the blued parts.
few seasons back I sat over my gut pile for a day while it drizzled.
Got to camp and didn't wipe my gun down...just wanted to sit by the stove. I thought it was fine until I got home and started cleaning stuff and noticed little surface rust by the scope base against the rifle. Since then I wont take my blued out in the weather. I still bring that rifle hunting with me....but it sits int eh truck as a back up

[Cowboy T]

I've seen a lot of old milsurp guns. All of them that I've seen, except for M1 Garands, have had blued finishes (Garands are Parkerized, I believe).

Mausers are blued. Mosins are blued. Old deer rifles are blued. They still work great and have (obviously) lasted a very long time, given proper care. That should be the case for any gun. As a friend reminded me, "you take good care of your gear, your gear will take good care of you."

So, what do I have? A mix. My 7mm Rem Mag is stainless...but my .308 Win is blued. The Super Redhawk 454 is stainless, but the Security-Six is blued. They all work great, and I like how all of them look.

What do you like? If you like stainless, then go stainless. If you like blued, then go blued. If you like both, as I do...then go both! :-)