Remmy 700 .308 ??'s

[indobos72]

All,
So I am going to break out the 700 I bought brand used about 5 years ago and haven't touched. The only thing I have is a 20MOA base that I picked up. But haven't installed it yet. It sports a stock stock and so I was wondering what would should be my initial purchases. I am trying to keep the initial build to under $1k. I know I need to get familiar with it and see what I want to upgrade. But without glass, ammo or anything else. I would like some opinions. I will likely hit 2-500 yards as the spot we go to maxes out at that range.

Another question, I have a cart loaded to go at Freedom munitions and since I get free shipping off my first order. I am thinking of adding 500 rns of re-manufactured for .49rnd. Link here https://www.freedommunitions.com/amm...fmj-reman.html

Your opinions are appreciated.

[ar15barrels]

The groups the gun will shoot are directly related to the quality of the ammunition you shoot.
If you re just blasting watermelons at 50yds, that cheap ammo will be fine.
If you want to hit small targets at 300-500yds, you will need high quality (cost) match ammo.

[indobos72]

The groups the gun will shoot are directly related to the quality of the ammunition you shoot.
If you re just blasting watermelons at 50yds, that cheap ammo will be fine.
If you want to hit small targets at 300-500yds, you will need high quality (cost) match ammo.

That makes perfect sense. What's a good ammo to start shooting with for a beginner to get familiar with the rifle?

[TMB 1]

For beginners/anyone cheap ammo should be fine shooting watermelons at 300-500yds.

[jimster716]

I have a Bell and Carlson Tactical Medalist stock that I'll be putting up for sale. My R700 Tactical AAC-SD sat in it. I just received an XLR Carbon chassis that will be the new home for the AAC-SD. PM if you're interested in upgrading to a true free float stock.

[hultgrenks]

A newer stock (tactical style) will go a long ways. I actually had AR 15 Barrels, machine out my factory stock to put in some bottom metal, in order to have a detachable magazine. I had a tactical bolt handle put on as well as getting a Harris Bipod. Bedding the receiver to the stock will go along ways to improving your accuracy. All of this cost me about $650.00 a few years ago. Scope not included. You can spend a lot of money on your rifle, but that is what I did and I was shooting sub MOA. The topic of scopes/rings/mounts is an entirely different conversation and you can spend a lot of money there too, or not.

[yankee-pete]

I find that the American Eagle .308 (cheap ammo) shoots very comparable to the Barnes .308 (expensive hunting ammo) in terms of accuracy at sub 500 yard distances. I use the AE for target shooting to keep the costs down because of this. This is through a Remmy 700 Varmint w/ Bell & Carlson stock and VX-6 2X12 optic.

[MongooseV8]

Cheap ammo, PMC has been pretty decent for my friends.

Stock, I really like the HS Precisions.

[boomer135]

Factory produced amo with a factory rifle will only get you so far. With watermelons at 500 you will be fine. When you want to start shooting apples at 500 you should should consider reloading.

Long range turns into an addiction. For now buy some higher quality match ammo and learn your basic fundamentals for long range. Never just pull the trigger, make every shot count.

For apples at 1000 yards, upgrade your stock, and optics. Then start reloading. If you still want more accuracy out of the rifle move to a custom build combined with reloading you own ammo.

[Varg Vikernes]

I have a Bell and Carlson Tactical Medalist stock that I'll be putting up for sale. My R700 Tactical AAC-SD sat in it. I just received an XLR Carbon chassis that will be the new home for the AAC-SD. PM if you're interested in upgrading to a true free float stock.

SA or LA?

[6mmintl]

A good bore cleaning with copper solvent, clean firing pin internals, and flush the trigger mech with carbon cleaner with go a longer way to helping it with reliability and accuracy.

[Trapper]

Start with a decent stock, HS, BC, or McMillian, add a Jewel or Timney, trigger, rings, and quality ammo 168 gr SMKs, 168gr and 178gr A-Max work well in my LTR.

[1911CA]

Remmy 700 .308 ??'s

Start with a decent stock, HS, BC, or McMillian, add a Jewel or Timney, trigger, rings, and quality ammo 168 gr SMKs, 168gr and 178gr A-Max work well in my LTR.

^^^^^^what he said x2^^^^^^
I built my own version of the M40A2
Started with a lefty Rem 700 Heavy Brl Varmint in 308. Pillar bedded, glassed McMillan stock, lapped the lugs, badger tactical bolt knob rings and 20moa base, trigger job, and a few other extras. Topped with Leupold Long Range M1 6.5-20X50 by premier reticles. She shoots sub moa and can shoot much better than I can take advantage of. When I throw a shot I can pretty much rest assured that it's my fault and not the rifles

I loaded for her for a year but couldn't get groups any better than she would shoot with Federal Gold Medal Match 168gr so I stopped trying to out load the match ammo

You will need to add decent glass. It's not worth putting all the time, effort and money into a rifle only to top her off with cheap or crappy glass. If you get serious about long range shooting the scope will cost more than the rifle

[SheepDog78]

You will need to add decent glass. It's not worth putting all the time, effort and money into a rifle only to top her off with cheap or crappy glass.

Definitely this! Don't cheap out on the scope, that will be your biggest limiting factor at longer ranges.

Also, if you're not planning on shooting past 500 yards, you could consider a flat base as opposed to a 20 MOA. You'll benefit from a better cheek weld for one. Any quality optic will have enough adjustment to easily get you to 500 yards with a flat base.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[ar15barrels]

Also, if you're not planning on shooting past 500 yards, you could consider a flat base as opposed to a 20 MOA. You'll benefit from a better cheek weld for one.

The scope base cant does not change your cheek weld one bit.
No matter what scope base you have, you still adjust the scope to zero to hit the target.
When you adjust the scope erector inside the scope, that is what sets where you are actually looking through the scope...