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Savage 110 BA Bolt Head Issue

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  • In My Cold Dead Hands
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2016
    • 67

    Savage 110 BA Bolt Head Issue

    Anyone have any ideas as to how to remove this stuck ejector pin? Savage will sell me the spring and the pin but not the bolt head. Need parts asap and this firearm is left handed. Also have a concern about the etching that primers have put into the bolt face. have a 1000 yard instruction course at Sac Valley on the 10th... Can I shoot rounds safely without the ejector pin?
    Attached Files
  • #2
    LynnJr
    Calguns Addict
    • Jan 2013
    • 7958

    You can safely shoot the gun without the ejector.
    Put the bolt back together and slam the boltface against a 2x6 or 4x4 chunk of wood to unstick the ejector.
    Some say you can freeze the boltface but that has never worked for myself.
    Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
    Southwest Regional Director
    Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
    www.unlimitedrange.org
    Not a commercial business.
    URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!

    Comment

    • #3
      bsumoba
      Veteran Member
      • Sep 2012
      • 4217

      many of the competition f class guns are shot without ejectors. no need to chase the brass on the ground.

      no experience with a stuck ejector.

      I'm going to bring a spare gun to the clinic in case someone's gun goes down on the line so they can keep shooting.
      Visit- www.barrelcool.com
      The Original Chamber Flag and Barrel Cooler in 1
      Instagram: barrelcool_

      Comment

      • #4
        kendog4570
        Calguns Addict
        • Dec 2008
        • 5180

        You can shoot that as it is.I would be more concerned about the erosion/gas cutting around the primer pocket. I can get you a replacement but probably not by the 10th. What caliber? Some OEM Savage bolts crater/dish in and fail at a fairly young age. The PTG head is a superior product. Their head along with squaring of the action and bolt face go a long way towards making these rifles shoot really well. I made fixtures to hold the head rigid while lapping and squaring, which I believe minimizes any misalignment, regardless of the floating head feature.

        Comment

        • #5
          In My Cold Dead Hands
          Junior Member
          • Jan 2016
          • 67

          Originally posted by kendog4570
          You can shoot that as it is.I would be more concerned about the erosion/gas cutting around the primer pocket. I can get you a replacement but probably not by the 10th. What caliber? Some OEM Savage bolts crater/dish in and fail at a fairly young age. The PTG head is a superior product. Their head along with squaring of the action and bolt face go a long way towards making these rifles shoot really well. I made fixtures to hold the head rigid while lapping and squaring, which I believe minimizes any misalignment, regardless of the floating head feature.
          What procedure do you go through to lap and square the face?

          Comment

          • #6
            kendog4570
            Calguns Addict
            • Dec 2008
            • 5180

            It is usually done when re-barreling. The receiver ring is squared in the lathe, and the bolt head lugs are lapped for 75% + contact, then the bolt face is squared to that sub assembly. I have fixtures that I fabricate to hold the bolt head rigid for this operation. Most Savages that I have squared have more than .003" run out at the ring and that as well at the bolt face, whether it is a stock bolt, or PTG's. This is acceptable for Savage to facilitate manufacture of a mass produced action. The floating bolt head is a production shortcut that has been cleverly turned into a marketing concept. I also make my own version of the PTG/Lambeth bolt lift kit.

            Comment

            • #7
              2shotjoe
              CGN/CGSSA Contributor
              CGN Contributor
              • Feb 2011
              • 26582

              i wished i knew, i am trying to get mine out since its being replaced with a PTG head.
              Originally posted by Kestryll
              ..you're kind of a sad excuse for an attorney...
              Originally posted by Libertarian777
              ...Don't pick either side....

              Comment

              • #8
                Fjold
                I need a LIFE!!
                • Oct 2005
                • 22994

                There's a big pin holding the bolthead on. You can get all the parts, including the bolt head from Sharp Shooter Supply in Ohio.
                Frank

                One rifle, one planet, Holland's 375




                Life Member NRA, CRPA and SAF

                Comment

                • #9
                  2shotjoe
                  CGN/CGSSA Contributor
                  CGN Contributor
                  • Feb 2011
                  • 26582

                  Originally posted by Fjold
                  There's a big pin holding the bolthead on. You can get all the parts, including the bolt head from Sharp Shooter Supply in Ohio.
                  op is talking about the small parts in the bolt head and SSS doesn't have any of those parts.



                  op, i'm gonna try this later. http://www.switchbarrel.com/Extractor.htm
                  Last edited by 2shotjoe; 04-01-2016, 10:44 AM.
                  Originally posted by Kestryll
                  ..you're kind of a sad excuse for an attorney...
                  Originally posted by Libertarian777
                  ...Don't pick either side....

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    TMB 1
                    Calguns Addict
                    • Dec 2012
                    • 7153

                    Originally posted by bloodhawke83
                    op is talking about the small parts in the bolt head and SSS doesn't have any of those parts.


                    We also carry all of the individual internal parts for bolt heads: Ejectors, Extractors, Pins, Springs, Balls, etc. Most all you need for any conversion or repair.
                    sigpic

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      MongooseV8
                      Veteran Member
                      • Apr 2010
                      • 4426

                      Originally posted by In My Cold Dead Hands
                      Anyone have any ideas as to how to remove this stuck ejector pin? Savage will sell me the spring and the pin but not the bolt head. Need parts asap and this firearm is left handed. Also have a concern about the etching that primers have put into the bolt face. have a 1000 yard instruction course at Sac Valley on the 10th... Can I shoot rounds safely without the ejector pin?
                      Curious how the ejector got stuck? Did it get stuch with normal operation, or did you mess with it? Looks like there is some marring marks from tools...

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Fjold
                        I need a LIFE!!
                        • Oct 2005
                        • 22994

                        Originally posted by bloodhawke83
                        op is talking about the small parts in the bolt head and SSS doesn't have any of those parts.



                        op, i'm gonna try this later. http://www.switchbarrel.com/Extractor.htm



                        Thanks TMB 1,

                        I was going to post that. I've bought every part for a bolt from SSS numerous times. I've changed a 300 WSM with a blade ejector into a 22.250 with a spring ejector all from SSS.
                        Frank

                        One rifle, one planet, Holland's 375




                        Life Member NRA, CRPA and SAF

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          In My Cold Dead Hands
                          Junior Member
                          • Jan 2016
                          • 67

                          Originally posted by MongooseV8
                          Curious how the ejector got stuck? Did it get stuch with normal operation, or did you mess with it? Looks like there is some marring marks from tools...
                          Reloading with the ogive touching the lans. Figured out the hard way that the ogive of the bullet needs to be backed away from the lans AT LEAST 20 one thousandths in an effort to not create a high pressure situation.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            LynnJr
                            Calguns Addict
                            • Jan 2013
                            • 7958

                            SSS didn't have the bolt parts when I e-mailed them when I bought there competition trigger.

                            Seating into the lands didn't cause the extractor problem. I close my bolt with a rubber hammer so seating deep is not the issue.
                            Grab the bolt in your fist and slam it into a chunck of wood that is on a level flat surface.
                            A flake of brass is most likely holding it.
                            Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
                            Southwest Regional Director
                            Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
                            www.unlimitedrange.org
                            Not a commercial business.
                            URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              In My Cold Dead Hands
                              Junior Member
                              • Jan 2016
                              • 67

                              Originally posted by LynnJr
                              SSS didn't have the bolt parts when I e-mailed them when I bought there competition trigger.

                              Seating into the lands didn't cause the extractor problem. I close my bolt with a rubber hammer so seating deep is not the issue.
                              Grab the bolt in your fist and slam it into a chunck of wood that is on a level flat surface.
                              A flake of brass is most likely holding it.
                              Your advice did help me get it loose. Several Local gunsmiths have told me that gasses escaping through the primer pocket could have pushed powder and other crud into the ejector hole thus causing it to get stuck. Also, the primers from reloads are showing that they're etching into the bolt face. Isn't that a sign of an over pressurized round? Even Hornady and Sinclair recommend backing off a minimum of 20 thousandths from ogive to lans. So it seems like everyone has their own opinion as to the cause. I should also mention that the IMR powder charges that were used were right at mid range of Hornady's recommendation...

                              Comment

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