Savage Trigger???

[LynnJr]

I have the Accu-Trigger on a model 111 and want to replace every part even the cocking piece crossbolt pin E clip and all springs.

I want all 100% new parts and nothing from the factory trigger at all.

Anyone seen or heard of a kit this complete and where?

[MongooseV8]

I've never seen such an animal. Looking to simply replace or upgrade?

[LynnJr]

I want to get away from the accu trigger and want a standard trigger without the blade. To upgrade a Savage trigger runs about $200 plus parts as they have to overcome all of the factory slop.
A Benchrest type tripper runs around $300+

[ar15barrels]

Savage Trigger???

Even swapping the trigger won't fix the design problem of how the cocking stud interacts with the bolt stop.
The bolt stop slows the trigger release as all that extra weight has to move for the striker to release.

You might consider just milling the receiver to accept a 700 trigger and then putting a 700 style bolt and trigger in the receiver.

[Fjold]

Sharpshooter supply has what you need, give Fred and Lisa a call or visit their website and just order from there.

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/ I have two of these and run them at 12 - 14 ounces on my varmint guns.

Competition Trigger Price: $102.00

The Sharp Shooter Competition Trigger is designed as a drop-in replacement. It may require some alteration to the trigger guard on some models, depending on the type of stock. The Sharp Shooter Competition Trigger is fully adjustable in respect to engagement, over-travel and weight of pull, and uses the original factory safety. The pull range is approximately 2lbs. to 12oz. The Competition Trigger comes complete with installation instructions and the wrenches needed for adjustment.
Fits both Accutrigger and Pre-AccuTrigger models.

[LynnJr]

Frank
I sent Fred a E-mail to see how long it would take him to do the work but have yet to hear from him. On his website it says he needs to true and time the action to add one of the better triggers. He goes into pinning some parts and other steps and it runs $190 plus the trigger.
I don't mind the cost if it fixes the problem but I heard his backlog was long and wanted to get a time frame from Fred.

Randall
You do this kind of work?
That cocking piece is nuts and the roller sticking out of the bolt looks like it was designed by Frankenstien.
I put a 32 pound spring in it and I am getting soft hits and failure to fires when the bolt stays cocked which is a 50-50 proposition. The cocking piece doesn't lift up unless you pull the bolt all the way back with a good bit of force.
I am used to Jewell Kelbly and Bix&Andy triggers so this thing is driving me more nuts.

[Fjold]

Generally it's 3-4 months of backlog at least, I usually can get it quicker because I take him out for steak dinners when I'm back there visiting and Lisa loves me.

Fred usually only requires the true job on the Evolution trigger, not the competition trigger. Since the Evo will go down to crazy light trigger weights.

I had one of Fred's trueing jobs done on one gun that I fitted with his old 2 Oz. trigger. It makes a such smoother action since he re-cuts the cocking ramp with a smooth helix instead of the angle that Savage does.

I put the standard competition trigger back on the gun since I don't shoot the 2 Oz. triggers well.

[LynnJr]

Frank does the standard competition trigger have the blade in the trigger shoe?
I will give him a call and see if he will put a kit together for me as I think the original cocking piece has already been stoned by another gunsmith.

[Fjold]

No blade, you can see the trigger here: http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

Scroll down on the menu on the left until you get to "Triggers" "Centerfire". It shows both triggers.

[Switchbarrel]

Hi Lynn-

If you get frustrated trying to reach SSS, try Kevin Rayhill at Stockade Gunstocks. He's built up two Savages for me & had them in stock. Caution, he generally likes to talk. Old brochure I have, not sure if there's been any design changes.



You might need to trim your trigger bracket.


-Rick

[FFASpector]

I'll trade you my Axis trigger. Solved.

[ar15barrels]

Randall
You do this kind of work?
That cocking piece is nuts and the roller sticking out of the bolt looks like it was designed by Frankenstien.
I put a 32 pound spring in it and I am getting soft hits and failure to fires when the bolt stays cocked which is a 50-50 proposition. The cocking piece doesn't lift up unless you pull the bolt all the way back with a good bit of force.
I am used to Jewell Kelbly and Bix&Andy triggers so this thing is driving me more nuts.

I have not done it, but the actual cut for a 700 trigger is not that complicated if you look at it.
It might also be easy to make the cut for a BAT trigger hanger.
That's just a rectangle cut with two tapped holes.
It's just a matter of measuring the receiver and seeing if there is sufficient metal there and if you can re-work the triggerguard to fit in a 700 sized trigger module.
Then re-shape the primary ejection cam piece and make it stay on the back of the receiver and mill a slot for the bottom of the cocking piece into the tang.

[LynnJr]

Randall
I had Jay McMunn build me a stockpile of trigger hangers before he passed away. Here is how it looks. I can weld in the slot for the safety and shape it to look like a regular tang.

For those unfamiliar with trigger hangers I posted a picture. They have two cross pins to hold the trigger just like a 40x or 700 but they also have two screws that mount to the bottom of the action. If you glue your action into your stock for stress free bedding this allows you to take off the trigger guard and drop the trigger without the need to drive out the crosspins.

[LynnJr]

Send me a PM with your complete mailing address and all of it is yours.
Keep your Axis trigger in case the accu trigger doesn't work out for you.
Remember that it could be the cocking piece or the trigger housing on mine that is bad so use yours first if you can.
I could have ordered up all the individual pieces and replaced them one at a time until the issue fixed itself but I don't have the time during the christmas time frame.
Please be safe as this is a known problem child. You will need a new E-clip as this one is shot.

[ar15barrels]

Before you start welding, slide in a bolt of similar length and see where the cocking piece needs to sit.
You can easily modify (shorten or lengthen via welding) a cocking piece to make a change in where the trigger module sits in relation to where it normally sits in the 700 platform.



I'm sure you could move 1/4" forward or back without much issue.
This would allow you to better optimize where the trigger sits in both the action and in the stock setup.