Help with PTG bolt diameter

[MongooseV8]

The M16 style extractor is pretty snazy too.

[killshot44]

I prefer the Remington extractor. Fitted properly for the particular casehead dimension, they're tough to break (yet easy to replace) and don't affect the bolt lugs.

The other types all require removing material from either the bolt face or one of the lugs.

Good luck with the build.

[ar15barrels]

Like I said, this is the first time I'm having a rifle built so I don't know exactly what gets done to an action when it's trued. I was under the assumption that the only things worked on are the action face, threads, bolt face and lugs, and that the bolt raceway was left untouched. I wouldn't want to pay extra to have the raceway reamed if it's not needed. I plan to have it all cerakoted, which I've read can be .001-.002 thick. From what you've guys have said, I think .698 is a safe bet, let me know if you think otherwise.

You absolutely need to talk with your smith before ordering the bolt.
Different smiths do truing differently and that will effect the diameter you should get.

When I true receivers, I open the bolt raceway to 0.705" to make it straight and round.
The factory bolt raceway tends to be tighter in back than in front.
Opening it up ensures it is consistent.

I recommend a 0.704" bolt for benchrest guns which will be left raw or parkerized.
I recommend 0.703" for field guns that are parkerized or left raw.
I recommend 0.702" for field guns is to be ceracoated.
I recommend 0.701" for field guns to be finished with krylon or duracoat.

[ar15barrels]

I'll buy your old bolt from you.

How many would you like?

[LynnJr]

Randall
Not joking around at all look what those bolts are selling for on E-Bay. $175-$200 each. I have never paid more than $125

[JMP]

Randall
Not joking around at all look what those bolts are selling for on E-Bay. $175-$200 each. I have never paid more than $125

I have an unused .223 Bolt, NEW FACTORY BOLT, $125, and it is yours, Lynn. You can flip it on eBay for $50 more. I have some other used bolts we can talk business on. I still don't think they are worth that much.

[BillyGoatMachine]

I wouldn't buy a factory 700 bolt for $50 unless I was proficient at silver soldering.......And I'm not! Yet!

[milotrain]

I'll buy all of yours for $50

Yes the PTG bolt is better, in many ways. The assumption that the stock bolt is useless or "really bad" seems to be the standard Remm**** argument.

[JMP]

Milo, I have a couple stock 223s, and 474 PTGs. I don't like my 703" as it has the spiral flutes. If you are serious, I am sure I can dig through my spare parts bins and find you something nice for a fair price.

[vliberatore]

The M16 style extractor is pretty snazy too.

What advantage does the M16 extractor give?

[milotrain]

What advantage does the M16 extractor give?

Advantages:
You can pansy *** the bolt and the brass still comes out.
You can tell someone at the range "all about your custom jobyjob."

Disadvantages:
You are removing material from the bolt face and the bolt nose.

There is value to the extraction ability of the modification IF you require excellent extraction of a difficult to manage case that is under pressured for the action. I wouldn't do it by default though (but that's just me). Like people who lower their cars "because racecar" and end up ruining the handling because they aren't suspension engineers and the guys who set the original ride height were in fact suspension engineers.

[JMP]

All 3 extractor types (Rem, Sako, M16) seem to work fine for short actions. It seems to boil down to preference as I have never heard of extraction issues with any of the 3.

[LynnJr]

JMP
What happens is you over pressure a round and when you pound the bolt open with a 2x4 and a hammer you pull the factory extractor right out.
That is usually when a Sako or M16 goes in.