Help with PTG bolt diameter

[alvin06]

I'm currently collecting parts for my first build. I have a Remington 700 short action and want replace the bolt with a 1 piece from PT&G. I'm going to have the action trued and the bolt and action Cerakoted. The stock bolt measures .697 and has plenty of play. I'll be using this rifle for more than just bench shooting so it has to be reliable out in the dirt. What diameter would you recommend?

[JMP]

It depends on whether or not you are getting the action trued. If you are truing the action, I'd personally recommend 0.704". The regular bolt is spec'd to 0.700. So, if you need to it to fit without gunsmithing, I'd get 0.6995. However, you will find that after-market bolts will usually require some tuning to a complete close and refinement to fit your particular trigger mechanism.

[BillyGoatMachine]

If the bolt raceway isn't getting reamed, I order them at .698, which leaves just enough room for ceracoat or microslick.

[JMP]

If the bolt raceway isn't getting reamed, I order them at .698, which leaves just enough room for ceracoat or microslick.

That's a good point. You will need a smaller diameter if you are painting your bolt. My personal preference is a parkerized finish. From my experience, parkerized finishes will almost universally give you the smoothest bolt.

[milotrain]

I'll buy your old bolt from you.

[alvin06]

Like I said, this is the first time I'm having a rifle built so I don't know exactly what gets done to an action when it's trued. I was under the assumption that the only things worked on are the action face, threads, bolt face and lugs, and that the bolt raceway was left untouched. I wouldn't want to pay extra to have the raceway reamed if it's not needed. I plan to have it all cerakoted, which I've read can be .001-.002 thick. From what you've guys have said, I think .698 is a safe bet, let me know if you think otherwise.

Milotrain, I was gonna put the bolt on ebay, but if you want it we can work something out.

[ExtremeX]

Why not have this conversation with your gunsmith? That way you can run your ideas though them and maybe get better advised. Possibly have them get some preliminary measurement of the action before even buying the bolt?

[JMP]

Oh, also, if you are ordering a new bolt, you may as well go with a small firing pin hole and small firing pin assembly as it will do better with small primers.

[LynnJr]

You can typically go to 0.701 without gunsmithing just some minor filing on the edges.
They sell them at 0.704 because varmint hunters want benchrest tolerances and don't generally cerakote finish there bolts.
This leaves them 0.001 total clearance. I never have any issues with dirt/chemise brush the biggest problem has always been unburned gunpowder. In the old days we would cut a pair of grooves in the factory bolt and epoxy and clamp two pieces of aluminum onto the bolt that would get turned down to any tolerance you wanted. This prevents the bolt from tilting in its bore due to the firing pin springs force against the trigger. When that happens you lose locking lug contact and when the trigger gets pulled the bolt actually drops down in its bore and the top locking lug now hits the abutment sending unwanted vibrations through the gun.
You do want the 0.062 firing pin hole which prevents popping primers. And you can get a coned bolt if your replacing the barrel itself. The coned bolt allows the bullet tip to make contact and still funnel into the chamber. From the factory the bolt recess is flat and if a bullet makes contact it locks you in the open position.

[alvin06]

ExtremeX, I emailed a couple of gunsmiths and PT&G last week but they have not replied. I figured they're busy and I just wanted to gather as many parts as I could while waiting. I've read that PT&G can take awhile so might as well get my order in asap.

JMP and LynnJr, I'm going with a .062 firing pin since I want to build a 6.5X47 Lapua. PT&G offers a Steel or Aluminum firing pin, which one is better?

Also, I didn't see an option for a coned bolt, PT&G's site has the standard bolt nose option checked.

I'm really leaning towards .698, I think after coating it'd be around .700 and hopefully that's enough room to where no reaming is needed.

[milotrain]

Just give it to a gunsmith and have them figure out the clearances.

[ExtremeX]

Oh, also, if you are ordering a new bolt, you may as well go with a small firing pin hole and small firing pin assembly as it will do better with small primers.

Would you always recommend a small firing pin hole, even when used with the standard large rifle primers?

[JMP]

JMP and LynnJr, I'm going with a .062 firing pin since I want to build a 6.5X47 Lapua. PT&G offers a Steel or Aluminum firing pin, which one is better?

Definitely get a small firing pin hole with a 6.5 Lapua or you are likely to pierce primers even when pressure isn't too high. The steel will always be stronger than the aluminum, but if everything is done correctly, it probably won't matter that much.

I'm really leaning towards .698, I think after coating it'd be around .700 and hopefully that's enough room to where no reaming is needed.

That's probably fine as painting usually adds ~0.001".

I'd also highly recommend to get a plain finish on the bolt. i.e. do not get the jewelling, fluting, diamonding, etc. or whatever they call it. You lose surface area, and since you are getting the bolt fit and you are painting it, lots of cuts on the bolt will have a propensity to give more slop. Then, with the cut spiralled flutes from PTG, they'll often be left rather sharp, which can damage your brass if you are feeding from a magazine. As a plus, a smooth bolt will save you money. I suppose it is preferential, but I have always favored smooth bolts.

[JMP]

Would you always recommend a small firing pin hole, even when used with the standard large rifle primers?

Yes, because it isn't of consequence to the down side. With a large hole, I was bursting primer cups on a 6.5 Creedmoor when I used Winchester LRPs. Though, I've not had the problem with CCI or Federal.

[LynnJr]

If your going with a accuracy minded cartridge you might as well fully true up the action.
Stan Ware has some great videos on YouTube you can check out and you should really contact Greg Tannel at GreTan Rifles in Colorado.
When your action gets trued up the gunsmith will put a piloted reamer through your action at 0.705 and will make all of his other cuts off of a rod that vets inserted after the reaming. This makes sure that every cut made to your action is parallel and perpendicular to the bolts bore.
In the old days we would bush the firing pin costing $75 we would then double sleeve the bolt body adding another $225 then we would insert nylon into the bolt shroud and Teflon tape the threads to keep it from twisting and being too loose. We would then replace the bolt handle and tig weld a new one in its place.

Today you call Dave Kiff and Greg Tannel and it runs half the price.

On the fluting is it done in benchrest to save weight but shooters liked the look so they use it on everything. All the hard work is done by the two locking lugs and the bolt body itself just opens and closes the lugs. If you like it get it done now.
Also we used to pay $125 for a Sako type extractor so if you want a Sako extractor get it with the bolt as there is no charge for it.
You are basically getting $400 for free when you upgrade the bolt.
I wouldn't do another step until you contact Greg Tannel.

On the 0.062 firing pin it is a must have with any of the newer super cartridges. I