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  • #16
    ar15barrels
    I need a LIFE!!
    • Jan 2006
    • 57150

    Originally posted by kds857
    Here is what the extractor looks like. Let me know if not normal. Used a brass brush to get any gunk out from under the claw, and tested it to pivot freely with good spring tension.

    There is a BUNCH of crud there.
    Take the extractor and the ejector and their springs out and clean that boltface up.
    Randall Rausch

    AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
    Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
    Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
    Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
    Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.

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    • #17
      kds857
      Member
      • Feb 2010
      • 260

      Oh. Roger that. Guess I better clean better. My HOWA manual doesn't give instructions on taking the extractor and ejector out. I see pins holding them, I assume its just a matter of punching them out and you can reuse those pins without any damage/deformation to them?
      Last edited by kds857; 07-19-2015, 10:53 PM.

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      • #18
        hermosabeach
        I need a LIFE!!
        • Feb 2009
        • 19594

        Look at the brass before and after firing. Do you see any marks after firing indicating that you might have a burr in the chamber?
        Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED

        Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)

        Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET

        Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
        (thanks to Jeff Cooper)

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        • #19
          ar15barrels
          I need a LIFE!!
          • Jan 2006
          • 57150

          Originally posted by kds857
          I assume its just a matter of punching them out and you can reuse those pins without any damage/deformation to them?
          Yes.
          Randall Rausch

          AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
          Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
          Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
          Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
          Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.

          Comment

          • #20
            LynnJr
            Calguns Addict
            • Jan 2013
            • 7958

            The wooden dowel I was talking about gets wrapped in crocus cloth and is held against the wall of the chamber while the barrel is spinning in a lathe.
            You need 0.003 worth of web area sizing to get reliable extraction without any click when the bolt handle reaches the extraction cam.
            A lot of benchrest shooters will spec there reamer tight near the web area then polish out the chamber to remove the click you get on tight brass without enough clearance in this area of the chamber.
            Also it depends on how straight your gunsmith puts in your chamber.
            If you gunsmith gets the chamber in with a lot of runout all your brass will drop right in and extract very well.
            Give that same reamer to Jim Borden and the chamber will be cut so straight all your brass will click on opening.
            This is do to the reamer wallowing out more metal because it wasn't as aligned with the bore as is possible.
            Sorry for throwing off the thread just trying to clear up my earlier brief post.
            Last edited by LynnJr; 07-20-2015, 3:44 AM.
            Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
            Southwest Regional Director
            Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
            www.unlimitedrange.org
            Not a commercial business.
            URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!

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            • #21
              kendog4570
              Calguns Addict
              • Dec 2008
              • 5180

              Originally posted by ar15barrels
              There is a BUNCH of crud there.
              Take the extractor and the ejector and their springs out and clean that boltface up.

              Jeez. Why didn't anyone mention that before...??

              Why on earth do folks insist on going the long way around the barn with diagnosing/repairing simple problems. Start with the easy stuff first.

              If your cars engine is losing oil, and is leaking at the drain plug, address that first. Why go straight to the crank seal??
              Last edited by kendog4570; 07-20-2015, 8:23 AM.

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