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The reason the 5r Remington may be worth it over a base model R700 (ONLY IN 308) is that it comes with a barrel that's higher in quality than the others along with a stock that isn't complete rubbish.
Still, in the 5r, they have the throat WAY too long, but it still seems to shoot quite well with SMKs. Those are hard bullets to mess up.
On your points:
1. I'd assume that the stock is the same, just a different color.
2. I believe the barrel is the same, just fluted. Fluting to me is a detriment rather than an advantage as it weakens a barrel of the same contour. However, in practice, it's mostly just cosmetic. The threaded end just saves you a few bucks since you don't need a gunsmith to thread the end for you to put on a brake. For me, I think having a brake is something you'd definitely want on this rifle to spot your hits as the 5r is a bit light otherwise. With pre-threading, you would buy a clamp on brake. Unfortunately, the clamp on or shimmed brakes tend to be quite expensive if you buy one on your own rather than having one that's designed to being machined to fit. You will need to look at your thread size and pitch to see what available brakes you can get. With a .308, it is probably 5/8-24, so there will be a pretty wide selection of brakes you can get. You are probably best off with an after market brake, DIY brake, with APA or Armalite with the tuning screw.
3. Do you mean the receiver is finished or the barrel? If it is the barrel, it's just paint. For the receiver and bolt, the finished depends on whether it is black oxide or parkerized. The parkerized finish provides for a more smooth action. The black oxide is just to try to protect against rust and it isn't of any real benefit unless you simply wanted a black action.
My recommendation to start out with is getting the Schmidt & Bender 5-25x56 PMII with P4 Fine reticle. This scope seems to work universally well for pretty much everyone. While Schmidt & Bender is on the high side of pricing, you are guaranteed of getting a good product that will not need replacement. It's pretty much the gold standard for general shooting. The only way you will do better is to pay up for a Hensoldt, which is not appropriate and completely unnecessary for a 308.
My second recommendation would be a Tangent Theta 5-25x56.
For a more budget scope, have a serious look at the Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27x56 or the Kahles K624s. Also, the new Nightforce F1 looks like a good contender for a middle market scope. All those scopes will last you a lifetime.
If you are into BR shooting and want 1/8 MOA clicks, then Nightforce or March is what you want to look at. The problem is that you want to make sure they have enough elevation to get you where you need. 18 Mils or 65 MOA is about the minimum required for a 308 and the BR scopes with tiny adjustment increments tend to have erector systems that do not allow for extremely large elevation adjustments; also they are in second focal plan, which is okay since you are shooting known distances. It all boils down to preference. On the flipside, you don't need much more than 18 Mils/65 MOA in a 308 because it is a cartridge that when it dies, it dies quickly.
Of course, for just 308, an entry level scope like the Vortex PST 6-24 FFP is just fine for a 308 as it's enough to get the 308 case as far as you can push it. If you want a good entry level, look at Vortex PST 6-24 FFP, Bushnell Elite Tactical 3.5-21, Sightron, Burris, and a few others. These will all work perfectly well with that gun. Mainly, you want to avoid the ridiculous made in China scopes that won't even hold up to the recoil of a .308.
Still, in the 5r, they have the throat WAY too long, but it still seems to shoot quite well with SMKs. Those are hard bullets to mess up.
On your points:
1. I'd assume that the stock is the same, just a different color.
2. I believe the barrel is the same, just fluted. Fluting to me is a detriment rather than an advantage as it weakens a barrel of the same contour. However, in practice, it's mostly just cosmetic. The threaded end just saves you a few bucks since you don't need a gunsmith to thread the end for you to put on a brake. For me, I think having a brake is something you'd definitely want on this rifle to spot your hits as the 5r is a bit light otherwise. With pre-threading, you would buy a clamp on brake. Unfortunately, the clamp on or shimmed brakes tend to be quite expensive if you buy one on your own rather than having one that's designed to being machined to fit. You will need to look at your thread size and pitch to see what available brakes you can get. With a .308, it is probably 5/8-24, so there will be a pretty wide selection of brakes you can get. You are probably best off with an after market brake, DIY brake, with APA or Armalite with the tuning screw.
3. Do you mean the receiver is finished or the barrel? If it is the barrel, it's just paint. For the receiver and bolt, the finished depends on whether it is black oxide or parkerized. The parkerized finish provides for a more smooth action. The black oxide is just to try to protect against rust and it isn't of any real benefit unless you simply wanted a black action.
My recommendation to start out with is getting the Schmidt & Bender 5-25x56 PMII with P4 Fine reticle. This scope seems to work universally well for pretty much everyone. While Schmidt & Bender is on the high side of pricing, you are guaranteed of getting a good product that will not need replacement. It's pretty much the gold standard for general shooting. The only way you will do better is to pay up for a Hensoldt, which is not appropriate and completely unnecessary for a 308.
My second recommendation would be a Tangent Theta 5-25x56.
For a more budget scope, have a serious look at the Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27x56 or the Kahles K624s. Also, the new Nightforce F1 looks like a good contender for a middle market scope. All those scopes will last you a lifetime.
If you are into BR shooting and want 1/8 MOA clicks, then Nightforce or March is what you want to look at. The problem is that you want to make sure they have enough elevation to get you where you need. 18 Mils or 65 MOA is about the minimum required for a 308 and the BR scopes with tiny adjustment increments tend to have erector systems that do not allow for extremely large elevation adjustments; also they are in second focal plan, which is okay since you are shooting known distances. It all boils down to preference. On the flipside, you don't need much more than 18 Mils/65 MOA in a 308 because it is a cartridge that when it dies, it dies quickly.
Of course, for just 308, an entry level scope like the Vortex PST 6-24 FFP is just fine for a 308 as it's enough to get the 308 case as far as you can push it. If you want a good entry level, look at Vortex PST 6-24 FFP, Bushnell Elite Tactical 3.5-21, Sightron, Burris, and a few others. These will all work perfectly well with that gun. Mainly, you want to avoid the ridiculous made in China scopes that won't even hold up to the recoil of a .308.
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