Scope Cant

[LynnJr]

Okay guys I come from a benchrest background and you guys need to explain in very simple English all the fuss about scope cant.
In benchrest your gun rides on a bag so the only cant you see is from mounting. The gun slides forward and there is no added cant.
I get that shooting off a bipod allows the gun to roll off axis but if you don't move the feet how are you getting it to cant between shots?

[Merc1138]

Are you talking about the scope being canted in the rings? Or do you mean the entire rifle being canted because the bipod isn't on a level surface?

[CK_32]

Not trying to be a di**, but I don't see the question. And why is a bench rest rifle shooting director, asking average joes for bench/rifle shooting 101...


And I think you mean"where", in your sig line.

[JTROKS]

If you cant your rifle you'll just have to dial initial adjustments to your scope. Afterward if you're using a sturdy bench then you won't have to worry about any canting unless your rifle is needeing readjustment. At 100 yards canting doesn't have much effect, but if you're shooting for the smallest group I'd say a cant level will insure preventing variations and that adds to consistency.

If I was shooting at 2000 yards I would definitely get an anti cant level to help me hold my gun true.

I've seen guys making sure their front rest is leveled and they even double check to make sure that anti cant level on their scope tube is true. A nice target scope with an internal cant level is nice.

[DaleAGribble]

Scope cant is more for long range. Originally they were used to utilize more of the available elevation in smaller tube scopes. They are still used today so you look thru the center of the glass for better clarity.

[Merc1138]

Not trying to be a di**, but I don't see the question.

I'm not even sure which axis he's talking about the scope canting, especially since he mentioned "between shots". If the scope is rotating in the rings then it's not mounted correctly(I've heard of people leaving the reticle canted, but that's an entirely separate issue and not something changed between shots). No one is swapping out their bases between shots. Changing the angle of the rifle for elevation doesn't really have anything to do with a bipod(outside of referring to a gross adjustment, but that doesn't have anything to do with it rolling off-axis).

[JTROKS]

Someone gots some explaining to do on what he means by scope cant.

[JMP]

Guys, there is confusion, I believe he is referring to horizontal cant when you have bipod flex, and folks have the silly little bubble levers attached to the scope.

[calshipbuilder]

I use a silly bubble level - wish I did not have to, but after second guessing myself too many times at a match, I had a machinist check to see if the reticle was canted inside the scope - it wasn't, not in the slightest.

For whatever reason, I naturally cant my scope clockwise a couple degrees. This becomes a problem at longer ranges. The bubble level is a quick fix for my broken internal cant indicator.

Some people do not have this problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iChDlTNmk0I

[LynnJr]

For whatever reason, I naturally cant my scope clockwise a couple degrees. This becomes a problem at longer ranges.

This is what I am talking about

[killshot44]

I think Shipbuilder is talking about installing his scope in the rings with a cant in the reticle. This is not good obviously....

I keep a bubble level on my scope base. The front rest is leveled, the rear bag is leveled and at a glance I know the stock is level. (I did buy the $13 model, not springing $50 on air in a bubble)

Now, if someone can explain using a cosine degree indicator in regular range shooting....?

[ar15barrels]

For whatever reason, I naturally cant my scope clockwise a couple degrees. This becomes a problem at longer ranges.

This is what I am talking about

Cut a slot in your stock and epoxy a level in it.
Make sure the gun is leveled and the bubble is centered while the epoxy cures.



It's important to be CONSISTENT in your cant.
The bubble will help you be consistently level.
Having the bubble in the stock allows you to use it without lifting off the stock.
The bubbles on top of the scope are almost useless because you have to lift your head off the gun to see them.
The act of lifting your head off and then getting a new cheekweld is enough to screw up your level.

[JMP]

Now, if someone can explain using a cosine degree indicator in regular range shooting....?

Cosine of the angle of elevation * hypotenuse (straight line travel) will give you the distance of horizontal travel.

For long range shooting past 2,000, I highly recommend using a sturdy wide base bipod. The Atlas/Harris bipods are popular for short action, but if you are going to shoot a big stick past 2,000 yards, get an adjustable bipod that is sturdy and LOCKS into place. You want as wide a base as possible. The Atlas/Harris don't cut it for larger guns at long range--too flimsy with no base for leverage and stability.

This is my long range bipod that does not move once I lock it. For fun, I added an extra 25lb+ to my rail with by balancing a case of water on it. That should not faze your bipod.

[JMP]

The bubbles on top of the scope are almost useless because you have to lift your head off the gun to see them.

I like the design of that level you did. Like you say, the silly bubble levers are kind of worthless because if you have time to look at the bubble, you have time to straighten the scope.

[CK_32]

For whatever reason, I naturally cant my scope clockwise a couple degrees. This becomes a problem at longer ranges.

This is what I am talking about

Cut a slot in your stock and epoxy a level in it.
Make sure the gun is leveled and the bubble is centered while the epoxy cures.



It's important to be CONSISTENT in your cant.
The bubble will help you be consistently level.
Having the bubble in the stock allows you to use it without lifting off the stock.
The bubbles on top of the scope are almost useless because you have to lift your head off the gun to see them.
The act of lifting your head off and then getting a new cheekweld is enough to screw up your level.

That^


Or you could try a scope mounted bubble level. I have one on all my range rifles. But mine are the cheap big ones so I just open or refocus my left eye and can see it while still in the scope. The more slim line ones might be out of view.

Also maybe have someone (who knows a thing or two) look and maybe adjust your shooting style either by body position, grip or gun monipulation so when you come to your natural body rest it sits level when you come back to neutral comfort.

I do the same. But I'm a horrible shot so I blame my bad form to why my natural position is a right side cant. (I shoot RH) so I'm sure being my dominant arm has something to do with it.

If I'm understanding you correctly.