Upgrading bases and rings

[Tacit Blue]

What is the advantage of upgrading bases and scope rings? I know some bases have a internal recoil lug, but is that really that important?


Right now I have some cheap Nikko Sterling rings and a base. Obviously Chinese in orgin, I was NOT impressed with the base machining quality.

[thai562]

Ideally, you want a nice solid and strong scope rings and base to handle the recoil of yours rifle and still retain zero. Most high end scope rings are made from steel for this reason.
If your current rings and base hold zero, you dont need to upgrade.

[JMP]

Actually the weight of the scope is the largest factor for how hard it stresses the mounts. Really, the trick to mounts is that if it does not move or break, isn't stressing your scope's tube, and provides the right geometry (inclination and height), then the mount is probably fine. It's very easy to go overboard on the cost of mounts.

Really, the quality and features in a mount are on a case by case basis so you want to buy what you need.

[LynnJr]

If your shooting a tacticool rifle you need a nickel cobalt base fastened down with 3/8-16 boron bolts. You need 3 or preferably 4 rings with a minimum of 6-8 screws each plus 1/2-13 crossbolts to hang onto it. At tacticool matches you will see 4-6 rifles were the recoil of a 308 Winchester out of an 18 inch barrel common to 1000 yard shooting has ripped the top of the receiver off.
For any other form of shooting including 50 BMG $15 Weaver rings will work flawlessly.

[SMarquez]

If your shooting a tacticool rifle you need a nickel cobalt base fastened down with 3/8-16 boron bolts. You need 3 or preferably 4 rings with a minimum of 6-8 screws each plus 1/2-13 crossbolts to hang onto it. At tacticool matches you will see 4-6 rifles were the recoil of a 308 Winchester out of an 18 inch barrel common to 1000 yard shooting has ripped the top of the receiver off.
For any other form of shooting including 50 BMG $15 Weaver rings will work flawlessly.

You forgot mill spec staking on the bases.

[LynnJr]

Mine are welded on after fusing then I put bungee cords over the top. I only use black bungee cords because they are Tacticooool.
Next year all Tacticool rifles will be run over with a German tiger tank then slapped against the front end of the tank. Make sure you get a gel coated stock made out of unobtanium to protect the finish.
Also note if your 308 rounds won't penetrate the tiger tank from 1500 yards head on you will be disqualified.
To gain access to any further matches you must go to You Tube and watch The Turboentabulator video three times and take a test.

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0SO804pODlVgXEAzmZx.9w4;_ylu=X3oDMTE0OTk2bzJrBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwM4BHZ0aWQDTU9VUzI5NV8xBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1429842089/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fm.youtube.com%2fwatch%3fv%3dyjXTOlsE8k0/RK=0/RS=Smh1Vr6EW5pCw8jXiipL8chM7Gg-

[Shakey]

I recently switched to bases machined from prefamulated amulite to reduce magnetoreluctance-induced galling of the Spurving bearings in my rings. My ring upper halves are, of course, secured with the standard six hydrocoptic Marzel vanes and Nofer trunnions replace the traditional cross-bolts.

You would be surprised at how effective this combination is in eliminating sidefumbling. Some people say you need to add a drawn reciprocation dinglearm, but I've found that sinusoidal repleneration is not an issue for the distances I shoot. YMMV.

[Cowboy T]

Seriously though, Burris Signature rings for me (Zee Signature on Weaver/Picatinny mounts). Affordable and work well. And you can shim 'em with those cool inserts, which is the major value-add to these rings if you're shooting distance. Only sucky thing: made in China.

[MarkInFolsom]

I recently switched to bases machined from prefamulated amulite to reduce magnetoreluctance-induced galling of the Spurving bearings in my rings. My ring upper halves are, of course, secured with the standard six hydrocoptic Marzel vanes and Nofer trunnions replace the traditional cross-bolts.

You would be surprised at how effective this combination is in eliminating sidefumbling. Some people say you need to add a drawn reciprocation dinglearm, but I've found that sinusoidal repleneration is not an issue for the distances I shoot. YMMV.

But you still need the ambihelical hexnuts to properly secure the rings.

[JTROKS]

Some cheap rings with the grip tape between rings and scope will hold zero. Until cleaning solvents or oil starts degrading the tape then one day at the range you're scratching your head WTF is going on.

[JMP]

If your shooting a tacticool rifle you need a nickel cobalt base fastened down with 3/8-16 boron bolts. You need 3 or preferably 4 rings with a minimum of 6-8 screws each plus 1/2-13 crossbolts to hang onto it. At tacticool matches you will see 4-6 rifles were the recoil of a 308 Winchester out of an 18 inch barrel common to 1000 yard shooting has ripped the top of the receiver off.
For any other form of shooting including 50 BMG $15 Weaver rings will work flawlessly.

QD levers. 308s also require QD levers. If you don't have a quick detach feature that returns to a perfect zero each time on the first shot, you will not be able to shoot.

[G-Man WC]

The biggest eye opener for me was when
buying a factory or used rifle and the base
having little or no loc on threads. It's coming loose, just a matter of time.
I always remove all rings and base. Remove all loc with alcohol, dental pick, and clean up threads with a bottom tap. Then reloc down base. Let sit overnight before rings and base go back on or upgraded. There are some inexpensive options for both rings and base and you can get away with minute of deer 1" @100 for hunting and informal target shooting.
But precision rifle is a whole new world when you go cheap. Listen to JMP, he knows what he's talking about....most of the time. 8) -g

[hermosabeach]

I showed up for a hunt and the rings busted in the mount...

The TSA placed the rifle in the case against the edge.... then somehow 1 ring sheared during transit....

If you drop a rifle during a hunt, will they hold zero?

[penguinofsleep]

ive had good and bad luck with cheap scope rings before (assuming i do everything correctly on my end). i haven't really had anything go wrong with good scope rings before but i do think they're overpriced for what they are.

on a different note, what bubble levels or tools do you guys like to use for making sure everything is level and balanced (at least compared to everything else on the rifle)? little coin type bubble levels seem to be ok, but a lot of them tend to be poorly manufactured and i don't have confidence in their accuracy, just setting a few of them down right beside each other on a seemingly flat surface, 1/2 of them showed not level in different directions.

also in terms of process, anyone have suggestions/improvements?: obtain level for receiver, level scope mounting base to receiver if applicable, install base of rings, put scope on and level scope to receiver, screw/clamp down rings to spec. double check everything. did it this way my first time but everything only lines up about 99%. it's good enough for a 10/22 plinking up to 100yds b/c i can hit what i want and i also have iron sights for pistols that came from the factory slightly more crooked and those pistols still hit clays at 100 yds. had another scope done professionally at a great price but i'd like to be able to do it myself going forwards.

[postal]

Penguin,

I usually bed my base to the action with jbweld. Coat the action with johnson paste wax or pam cooking spray. Lighly coat the base with the jb, and lightly install the base keeping care to keep it out of the screw holes.

After 20 min or so when it starts to set, clean off the excess, remove the screws to make sure you didnt glue one in, and reinstall- leave to full cure.

When I install base/rings I ALWAYS use blue loktite- no matter what instructions say, since I've had one come loose before.

Once you play with the scope mounted LOOSELY in the rings for quite some time to be sure the height is correct, and the distance of the scope is correct, I use stacked feeler gauges between the base, and the flat bottom of the scope turret to ensure the scope is level to the base, and loktite the rings.

Personally I like quality rings. I prefer TPS for affordable quality rings and bases. Besides, you cant get that cheap chinamart crap in 34mm anyway.