Question: CZ trigger pull difference

[nikki#2]

Thanks Tok! Speaking of CZ triggers... the ones on their long guns clean up very nicely too!

[cusco19]

have you considered buying your CZ from CGW?
You can get one brand new with the Pro Package for$950 although you may not have time. regardless i highly recommend having it tuned by CGW. The P-01 is very good gun in the stock configuration, but after you have the full blown trigger job and reach reduction it is a great gun. It makes a world of difference on the trigger.
just my $.02. YMMV.

yea i figure i wouldn't have enough time, so didn't get the P01 from CGW. plus i checked around and it seem Target Master had the only 2 P01 around with decocker and 1 was sold in front of my face.. so i pulled the trigger and DROS the P01. if the SP01 Tactical was available.. then i might have went with that... but who am i kidding.. if the Tact was available, i might ended up with both!

@BEE: did you do any trigger job on your P01? i heard CGW may also have a P07 non-omega trigger that would fit on a P01, which i might go that route as well to shorten and lighten the trigger. not sure if anyone has done that. saw some vid on youtube on trigger job.. but not specificically for P01.

@Nikki: that is one beautiful CZ rifle.... so gorgeous!!

[himurax13]

If I buy another P01, I will get a modded one from CGW from the get go. Although that 97B with all the trimmings looks tempting.

[cusco19]

@himurax13: same here. but now that i have a P01.. need to figure out how to get the trigger job done. i plan to keep the same hammer but probably doing the trigger job would also mean needed to lighten the spring on the hammer as well?

[himurax13]

@himurax13: same here. but now that i have a P01.. need to figure out how to get the trigger job done. i plan to keep the same hammer but probably doing the trigger job would also mean needed to lighten the spring on the hammer as well?

I would get the hammer. IMHO it makes the biggest difference for the single action pull. The disconnector for the shorter reset is number two. I wouldn't even bother modding the P01 without those.

I wouldn't go less than the 13 lb mainspring but I would probably be best for reliability to get the extended firing pin and the lighter springs for the slide.

If you are going to go that far, you might as well replace the craptastic trigger with an 85 combat one to prevent that stinging trigger feel.

[cusco19]

I would get the hammer. IMHO it makes the biggest difference for the single action pull. The disconnector for the shorter reset is number two. I wouldn't even bother modding the P01 without those.

I wouldn't go less than the 13 lb mainspring but I would probably be best for reliability to get the extended firing pin and the lighter springs for the slide.

If you are going to go that far, you might as well replace the craptastic trigger with an 85 combat one to prevent that stinging trigger feel.

do you know what are the parts i needed to get? and are they all from CGW or some from CZC? just wanted to make sure i get the right parts for the mod.

thanks.

[Tok36]

As far as i understand it, changing the Disco dose not effect the reset distance, it effects the SA take up or at rest SA trigger position. It is referd to as a "Short Rest Disco" but this is kind of a misnomer.

A shorter reset can be achieved with the CGW SRS (short reset system) or by removing the FPB (fireing pin block). Removing the FPB is a better move on a safety model. On a decocker the FPB is the only safety in the pistol.

[cusco19]

thanks Tok36. i also emailed CGW and see which parts he's suggest me to buy and then will go from there.

[Tok36]

thanks Tok36. i also emailed CGW and see which parts he's suggest me to buy and then will go from there.

Good move, he will not steer you wrong. I did exactly this on my first CZ and it elevated some of the headache of trying to sort everything out. Things became much more clear when i started shooting/cleaning my first upgraded CZ. Nothing quite like getting your hands on one so you can use it as a physical reference.

[cusco19]

good.. looking forward to that..

[himurax13]

As far as i understand it, changing the Disco dose not effect the reset distance, it effects the SA take up or at rest SA trigger position. It is referd to as a "Short Rest Disco" but this is kind of a misnomer.

A shorter reset can be achieved with the CGW SRS (short reset system) or by removing the FPB (fireing pin block). Removing the FPB is a better move on a safety model. On a decocker the FPB is the only safety in the pistol.

Correct.

I also highly advise against removing the firing block on a Decocker model as well.

That is basically why the decocker will not have the potential that a manual safety model has. However, the difference is small.

[oldRed]

It is also difficult to get decockers to detonate primers reliably with the 8.5 and 11lb recoil springs for some reason. So sub 2lb pulls are extremely difficult to achieve with the decocker. Although with a P01, a 2.5 lb pull is already overkill but using the rear stop setscrew will cause gouging of the frame. So the pull ends up being a bit longer and doesn't have the super short reset and break of my Shadows.

If you can't pop the primer do a pencil test. Drop a wooden pencil eraser end down, dry fire the pistol and see how high the pencil goes. If it doesn't clear the end of the barrel I consider there's a problem.

With new manufacture pistols I almost always find the firing pin is too short. The firing pin is made short and the hammer spring heavy so the gun doesn't fail any drop test. Even if the gun is dropped in such a way as the firing pin safety is lifted out of the way and firing pine is driven into the primer; the pin is still to short to ignite the primer with only the weight of the firing pin acting on it.

I almost always end up installing a longer firing pin and a lighter hammer spring. Giving better ignition and lighter trigger pull.

Red

Nobody gets justice. People only get good luck or bad luck. -Orson Welles

[himurax13]

If you can't pop the primer do a pencil test. Drop a wooden pencil eraser end down, dry fire the pistol and see how high the pencil goes. If it doesn't clear the end of the barrel I consider there's a problem.

With new manufacture pistols I almost always find the firing pin is too short. The firing pin is made short and the hammer spring heavy so the gun doesn't fail any drop test. Even if the gun is dropped in such a way as the firing pin safety is lifted out of the way and firing pine is driven into the primer; the pin is still to short to ignite the primer with only the weight of the firing pin acting on it.

I almost always end up installing a longer firing pin and a lighter hammer spring. Giving better ignition and lighter trigger pull.

Red

Nobody gets justice. People only get good luck or bad luck. -Orson Welles

Actually if I can't get the pencil to fly 5 feet or more I will usually trim the firing spring a touch and try again. You can't go too far or else the firing pin will start dragging on the primer.

If you go down to a 13 lb hammer spring, an extended firing pin and lighter firing spring almost always becomes a necessity.

[Motosurgeon]

They're gonna be different from gun to gun but with proper smithing can be made to meet or surpass your expectations..

[zfields]

A question out of interest Nikki.

Can you explain what part interaction inside a CZ decocker would cause it to have less potential for a smooth light trigger? I have seen this stated a few times but have yet to see an explanation of why.

You have an extra spring, and an extra lever creating friction. Overall, the sear cage is a bit more complex.

You can view my created threads, and check out the walk through I did on the decocker CZs, and compare to some of the standard DA/SA guns.