Based on your above post, I would say you're a far better shooter than I. The competition shooters I know have jaw dropping trigger control. I'm sure you do too. Check your inbox.
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Glock Trigger Job - FFL required?
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Umm, better than stock? LOL
It would be nice to be able to keep the pistol legal for SSP and Production but since it is a .45, that might be a pointless affair.
Reduced pre and post travel would be nice but what I am mainly looking for is a short reset and a nice crisp break.Based on the absence of a hammer and sear, the geometry to create that anomaly is simply not present, so I would settle on impossible, but as you know in owning a Fulcrum system, a well tuned Glock trigger can easily achieve a snappy to crisp, carrot-like break (carrot snapping in half).
Unlike a 1911, the pre-travel or take-up within a Glock trigger consists of cocking the striker, which is already half-cocked. When the take-up is removed, the actual break consists of the vertical extension in the trigger bar overcoming and pushing the firing pin safety upward, and the rear of the trigger bar disengaging and releasing the nose of the striker assembly nearly simultaneously. The creep everyone speaks of associated with Glock fire control systems is the first of those two occurrences. Unfortunately, creep remains a necessary evil.
Since the trigger bar is nothing more than a stamped part, the edges are crudely finished. The crude edge of the trigger bar that engages the FPS needs to be rounded off and polished, and the FPS itself has a ridge on the shoulder that needs to be re-contoured and polished to produce a smoother break, and nearly eliminate the perception of creep. Stoning a flat, sharp edge in the rear of the trigger bar that releases the striker creates a crisp break, as does stoning a flat, sharp edge on the nose of the striker.
The edge at the rear trigger bar would be considered a sear, and the nose on the striker assembly would be consider the hammer, and most people round-off those surfaces by polishing while completing their .25 trigger jobs.
Of course, then there's the connector, and all of the bearing surfaces.
I could go on and on, but you get the idea.Comment
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Originally posted by BumslieHK - the best 600 dollar gun, 900 dollars can buy.Originally posted by SleighterGetting legal advice from a gun salesman, is like getting medical advice from a janitor at a hospital. Both make about the same per hour and both prove that being around something all day doesn't make you an expert.
Lifetime NRA member.Comment
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Sorry to thredjack, but since I don't live in socal and don't plan on sending my glock to the op, I have to ask this question, or start a new thread.\
What are the best alternatives to the stock trigger? In my 34 that I use for USPSA production. I use a ghost connector and comp springs, and feel it is a ok trigger. What else do people use in production, or just in general. I have seen some use the pymamid, and have heard of the fulcrum and a couple others. What are people happy with? Again, I am mainly talking competition and target, not home defense/CCW.Comment
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The primary "problem" or should I say design limitation of the Glock trigger is not so much that it is striker fired, but that it relies on a ramp to bring he sear down and release the striker. BTW, the PPQ, xD, VP9, etc are the same way.
When you pull a Glock trigger the following sequence of events happen:-- Finger depresses trigger safety -- Frees Trigger to actually move backwards (aided by trigger spring against striker spring).
- The Trigger bar compresses the firing pin block -- making the firing pin capable of striking the primer [UP TO THIS POINT IT'S ALL TAKE UP]
- The trigger bar hits an angled flange on the disconnector
- Trigger bar is pushed downwards by this flange as it continues to move backwards.
- The sear disengages and the striker is flung forward by the striker spring
- GUN FIRES
- The slide, moving back in recoil pushes a litle tab on the disconnector deflecting it sideways.
- The Sideway deflection causes the trigger bar to slip past the ramp
- The trigger spring pulls the trigger back and up to re-engage the striker's sear [SEAR RESET]
- The striker spring -- being stronger than the trigger spring -- pulls the trigger forward
- The trigger bar moves forward enough for the disconnector to snap back and put the ramp back in the way of the trigger bar
- GUN READY FOR NEXT TRIGGER PULL [TRIGGER RESET]
You can take away most of the take up if you don't mind compromising the passive safeties to one degree or another. You can put a screw or a tab in place to block out over travel. But, you cannot get rid of the ramp. If you shorten the ramp and make it steeper the trigger pull becomes shorter but stiffer. If you don't the pull is long. This means that the reset distance cannot be shortened by much if at all. To really get a true single action pull rather than the "spring assisted a double action only pull" like that on the glock, you'll need a trigger system which is pivoted to move the sear down rather than one which slides back and rely on a ramp for vertical motion. It can be done but it means changing the entire fire control design of the pistol. The Glock pull will ALWAYS be somewhat long. The trigger reset will always be somewhat long too. That is actually part of the "safety" package -- a longish pull mitigates the likely hood of negligent or accidental discharge in a gun without an external and discrete safety.Last edited by dwightlooi; 11-26-2014, 7:16 PM.Comment
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Can I work for you doing Glock mods?

This is my G35 with 40-9 LW conversion barrel trigger breaks at 35oz. I've also done a G17 for range use only. Also did several action job just to smoothen trigger.
The wise man said just find your place
In the eye of the storm
Seek the roses along the way
Just beware of the thorns... K. MeineComment
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Originally posted by BumslieHK - the best 600 dollar gun, 900 dollars can buy.Originally posted by SleighterGetting legal advice from a gun salesman, is like getting medical advice from a janitor at a hospital. Both make about the same per hour and both prove that being around something all day doesn't make you an expert.
Lifetime NRA member.Comment
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ATF FAQ:
If you're going to sell trigger parts only, you should still look into liability insurance. One klutz killing somebody and their family suing your balls off is all it takes to put you into the poorhouse.Q: Is a license needed to engage in the business of engraving, customizing, refinishing or repairing firearms?
Yes. A person conducting such activities as a business is considered to be a gunsmith within the definition of a dealer.
[27 CFR 478.11]Comment
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Get them to sign a release form that you're not liable for any damages or death due to the use of a modified trigger. As long as the trigger jobs you do doesn't go full auto or goes off due to faulty mods.The wise man said just find your place
In the eye of the storm
Seek the roses along the way
Just beware of the thorns... K. MeineComment
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This. And it makes you a better shooter. You need to shoot with light triggers, heavy triggers, long pulls, and short pulls to master trigger control.
If you want to shoot one particular kind, that's fine as well.
But modifying a Glock trigger is not difficult... Two set screws with some loctite and a different factory connector and you have a decent trigger with all factory parts. It's definitely been done before but that doesn't mean you cannot do it as well. But you should know you won't be selling the holy grail though.
Edit: for the original question, just modify the trigger bars and housings individually and sell those. Only the frame is the serialized part so the parts that go into the frame do not need to go through an FFL.Comment
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My 41 out of the box has the absolutely worst trigger pull of any Glock I ever owned. 8 lbs, lots of creep, with a side of grit. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a Massachusetts model.Originally posted by BumslieHK - the best 600 dollar gun, 900 dollars can buy.Originally posted by SleighterGetting legal advice from a gun salesman, is like getting medical advice from a janitor at a hospital. Both make about the same per hour and both prove that being around something all day doesn't make you an expert.
Lifetime NRA member.Comment
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Originally posted by BumslieHK - the best 600 dollar gun, 900 dollars can buy.Originally posted by SleighterGetting legal advice from a gun salesman, is like getting medical advice from a janitor at a hospital. Both make about the same per hour and both prove that being around something all day doesn't make you an expert.
Lifetime NRA member.Comment
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