Customizing a Springfield GI .45

[dgey]

replacing parts is easy, but actual gumsmithing isn't..., with all of the quality parts you're getting, you may want to consider what's called a reliability job for your gun. Lot's of good smith's do it..., as for refinishing afterwards, many smith's will do this also... Wilson Combat, Springfield Armory Custom, Kimber, Robar..., etc. You won't recognize your gun afterwards, and it''ll be really nice... this is going to cost you... Someone stated that you should've purchased a gun with all of the above already installed, and in the long run, it's tons cheaper... I have 2 SA, 1 Colt and 3 Kimbers..., I love the Kimbers and shoot them better than the others... was also cheaper than doing up my SA mil spec like you're doing now...

[SVTNate]

Please buy Ed Brown, Wilson, EGW, Cylinder and Slide, or other quality parts, not crappy production grade MIMber stuff.

You'll be replacing the low quality MIM parts in your gun with.... low quality MIM parts.

Wilson Combat BulletProof or Ed Brown HardCore are my preferences for safeties, slide stops, hammers, sears, all that stuff.

[SVTNate]

I should also mention that I have done this many times. Replacing most of the parts you should replace will cost you about $300 from Ed Brown. That will not include a match bushing or a new barrel, which you need since the GI has the two-piece cheapie barrel and not a forged one-piece. It will include beavertail, safety, new MSH, slide stop lever, mag catch, hammer, sear, disconnector, and other small parts. It also won't include sights or a magwell should you desire one.

[Solidsnake87]

Those are all quality parts, they'll be fine. I Used the Ed Brown hammer and sear in my build. I felt that the pull was a little longer than I wanted and ended up lowering the hooks a couple thousandths as well as recutting the sear. It's not bad right out of the box though. If you do decide to do any stoning on the sear and hammer I strongly recommend using a jig. And doing several dry runs with dykem or marker on the engagement surfaces to make sure it has good even contact. My old machine shop teacher told me a horror story of a guy (gunsmithing student) who did a trigger job, loaded up a mag and blew the top of his head off when it went full auto as he dropped the slide.

Um, I'm now afraid to do any work on my pistol at all. Are the hammer, trigger, and sear unsafe in their unmodded condition?

[Elucidus]

Um, I'm now afraid to do any work on my pistol at all. Are the hammer, trigger, and sear unsafe in their unmodded condition?

...how did he blow his head off?

I would recommend loading only one round and pointing the gun down range when you drop the slide for the very first time... but wouldn't you have noticed the hammer dropping when you closed the slide on an empty round?

Sounds like a number of safety systems on the 1911 was compromised in that story.

Drop the slide with a snap cap at the top of the mag and find out if the hammer drops or no. If it does, take it to a gunsmith. No big deal.

[A60P]

I would spend some time here: http://www.louderthanwords.us/forum/
Some of the best smiths in the country and pics of builds.

[randy]

SVTnate is giving you great advice. The best trigger group you can buy is from Cylinder and Slide.

Ed Brown is what most of the top builders are using for safetys. For single stacks I like Kings stuff for double stacks I use Ed Brown.

You have a tang not a beaver tail if I remember correctly. To get it correct you will need to have it fit and you are going to spend some cash. Ed Brown or Kings is what I like there too.

Use the barrel you've got until you can out shoot it or you wear it out. On my 1911's with a bushing I use the Kings bushing. Mag catch Ed brown sells one that is just a bit longer than stock and is worlds better for mag changes.

Good luck and enjoy.