CZ-75B Range report; problems!

[Euphoria526]

I apologize, I didn't mean to come off condescending at all if it sounded like it. I just don't understand the barrel break in on pistol barrels. With a bench rifle? Sure, you are doing the final lapping on it. Pistols? Lapping 4 1/2 inches of steel with low velocity copper doesn't seem like it would do much to me. As for breaking in the slide to frame, sear and hammer hook faces etc, that makes much more sense. And with how random reloads usually come with variations to seating depth, charge weights, and at times bad crimps/resizing, I still don't see how it would effect break in that much.


For factory, RWS sportline 124 grain is amazing stuff if you can find it.

Hahah it's all good I didn't take it as condecencing, I'm like a sponge with this stuff so any logical reasoning that makes sense I consider. I have yet to shoot a hand pressed reload from someone i personally know, just had mess ups with rental guns and reloads. I know you reload and you know what your doing and putting into it so it's better than factory.
And the break in thing. I just feel really any metal mechanical device has some sort of break in. Definitely the internals and metal on metal. But I also just wanted to get my gun used to factory rounds for my matches and what brand I want to shoot. Maybe it's more superstition than anything else.

[freethemouse]

Probably not enough viscosity by itself. While I occasionally use CLP for cleaning, I do not rely on it for my lubrication duties solely.

When it's metal on metal...grease!

See zfields reply as well. For me, I use slideguide on my rails on the frame and slide.

For my internal workings...I use Gunzilla CLP which is like CLP but all natural and non toxic.

After you apply, work the slide for a few minutes and get some snap caps to ensure extraction is fine.

I just ordered Slip 2000 grease from Amazon. I'll try that out and see how that works.

Also, I've been lurking on czfirearms.us forums and the consensus seems to be that changing to a Wolff spring is a prudent thing to do. We'll see how the spring works (I'm probably going to pick up some spare parts in the near future, too).

[the0thermrt]

try shooting one handed, or left handed - if it runs smooth then it means your support hand thumb is messing with the slide stop, slowing down the slide on return enough to make the nose of the next round stick on the feed ramp.

[freethemouse]

try shooting one handed, or left handed - if it runs smooth then it means your support hand thumb is messing with the slide stop, slowing down the slide on return enough to make the nose of the next round stick on the feed ramp.

I suspected this could be the case as I've recently changed my grip where I place my thumb near the slide stop. I went back to my old grip (basically the same but with my thumb near my index finger knuckle) and still had the same problem. =(

[sofbak]

I think before I started replacing springs, I would look at one more potential failure scenario that hasn't been mentioned. Based on your original post, you may have an extractor sticking in the "closed" position.

If they gun was heavily oiled, there could have been a lot of oil in the groove behind the extractor. After the 200 initial rounds, enough carbon and powder residue could have been pumped back there as well. Let that residue absorb the oil overnight, and you have a build-up of semi-solid sludge. And it could have settled around the spring well to hamper the opening motion of the extractor. Then in use, if the claw doesn't ride over the case rim, the round is a bit "sideways" during the last 1/2" or so of travel before reaching battery.

I have read on other forums about crud build up in this area on CZ pistol, and the general solution was to clean it out and keep it dry.

I would try a spray can of gun solvent or chlorinated brake cleaner from the local parts house, and hose out the extractor well. I do this on my sp-01 after every session. I take a tooth pick and put it behind the extractor claw to hold it away from the bottom of the groove, and put the plastic tube on the spray can in there and spray away. Just be sure to wear eye protection, because if you get a back-splash of that stuff in the eye, it's going to burn like the dickens.

hth

[freethemouse]

Thanks Sofbak! I heard about extractor issue while researching this issue. I ended up ordering some pipe cleaners and brushes last night after learning about all the little nooks and crannys that need cleaning. I'm going to clean tonight and make a trip out to the range to see if the problem persists.

I also ordered the spring. At least I got a back up one. =)

[xbimmers]

Another thing to consider is this. When I have reloaded .45 ACP military brass I found most of them would not make the chamber checker test. It appears the walls of the military brass is thicker than commercial brass. Can you tell me if the 9mm brass you are using is military brass? What are the markings? Have you done the chamber check yet?

[freethemouse]

Another thing to consider is this. When I have reloaded .45 ACP military brass I found most of them would not make the chamber checker test. It appears the walls of the military brass is thicker than commercial brass. Can you tell me if the 9mm brass you are using is military brass? What are the markings? Have you done the chamber check yet?

The brass is mixed. Saw some FC's, UMC, WIN, AGUILA, etc. I've dropped a few into the chamber, along with CCI Blazer Brass, and they all dropped in easily.

[zfields]

Another thing to consider is this. When I have reloaded .45 ACP military brass I found most of them would not make the chamber checker test. It appears the walls of the military brass is thicker than commercial brass. Can you tell me if the 9mm brass you are using is military brass? What are the markings? Have you done the chamber check yet?

What type of chambering on the gun. I could see that happening on a "match" type gun, but not on a combat designed pistol.