Glock trigger -- questions for Glock xperts

[littlejake]

I'm not new to Glock. But have never tried to alter the Glock trigger pull. I understand it can be done with a different trigger link bar.

How does this work?
Where do I get one for a G19, gen 3?
How do I swap it out?

Glock is striker fired. I assume changing the trigger bar link, changes the trigger pull by changing the mechanical advantage of the trigger system. Generally when mechanical advantage is increased, it is at the expense of distance. So, does the "new" trigger bar increase length of pull?

[HighLander51]

Do you mean the connector? There are Glock OEM, and several other companies that make aftermarket ones. But it doesn't sound like you have a clue as to how a Glock works. Your'e probably better off to have an armorer help you with this.

[VictorFranko]

Lots of videos on YouTube showing you how to completely disassemble and reassemble a GLOCK. When reassembling, simply replace the connector.
Also many videos showing you how to do a $.25 trigger job.

The "trigger link bar" you refer to is the "connector".

I have done the $.25 trigger job on my three GLOCKS and changed out the connectors to 3.5# connectors. I prefer the OEM connectors over aftermarket, but YMMV.
To the best of my knowledge, there is no change in "length of pull", I certainly never noticed.

Just leaving the house, wife waiting, or I'd post the videos for you.
Someone will come along shortly and link you up!

[littlejake]

I owned a G17 and a G21 back in the early 1990's. I have never done more that field strip the Glock for cleaning.

OK, I Got the nomenclature wrong -- doesn't make me a tyro.

I see the difference in the ends of the connectors, it's a change in angle at the end. Has to change the point of contact in the trigger system to increase or decrease the effort to cock the striker and release it.

Looks easy to me:

This guy pulls all 3 pins:

http://youtu.be/y3x-cmMfWJw

This guy only pulls the back pin:

http://youtu.be/OfyytGNqohY

[Lawmonkey33]

If this is a defense weapon I'd only let a smith do it.

I had mine done back in around '96 and have loved it ever since.

[Mr.1904]

What are you trying to accomplish?

Lighter pull? Better reset? lighter return?

Changing out the connector usually just lightens the actual pull.

My 17 is set at about 3.2-5# with new springs, and a new connector

My 21 is set up at about 4.2-5 with the "-" connector. Most people will tell you the "-" connector is 3.5# but in reality it's more around 4 pounds.

[littlejake]

What are you trying to accomplish?

Lighter pull? Better reset? lighter return?

Changing out the connector usually just lightens the actual pull.

My 17 is set at about 3.8# with new springs, and a new connector

My 21 is set up at about 4.2-5 with the "-" connector. Most people will tell you the "-" connector is 3.5# but in reality it's more around 4 pounds.

My model 21 was factory set with a 4.5# trigger (it actually came in lighter.) I was not permitted to use it when I went for 832PC reserve at Rio Hondo in 1994. Rangemaster had a minimum pull requirement and mine was too light. (I used my Sig P220 as I wanted a .45 at the time.)

I've got the "how it works" part figured out. The connector lifts in a slot -- it's essentially the physics of an inclined plane. Faster ramp gets you there more quickly; but requires more force. Slower ramp takes less force but will require more distance (LOP.)

I've watched the videos; and know I can swap the connector...

I'm looking for a lighter pull. But, it is my primary defense gun; perhaps I should not alter it. Or, if I do, have it done professionally.

[Mr.1904]

My model 21 was factory set with a 4.5# trigger (it actually came in lighter.) I was not permitted to use it when I went for 832PC reserve at Rio Hondo in 1994. Rangemaster had a minimum pull requirement and mine was too light. (I used my Sig P220 as I wanted a .45 at the time.)

I've got the "how it works" part figured out. The connector lifts in a slot -- it's essentially the physics of an inclined plane. Faster ramp gets you there more quickly; but requires more force. Slower ramp takes less force but will require more distance (LOP.)

I've watched the videos; and know I can swap the connector...

I'm looking for a lighter pull. But, it is my primary defense gun; perhaps I should not alter it. Or, if I do, have it done professionally.

For a defense gun i wouldn't take it under 4#. My 21 is what i have as a defense gun also, along with the 30; And both are at about 4#

My 17 on the other hand is the range/training gun and has a 3.2-5# connector. Also switched out the springs to lighten up the whole action also. It's awesome to shoot. Had all my work done by Vince at the Glock Store here in SD.

[cgates]

if I were you I might think about doing that 25 cent trigger job and get things really polished up. You might be happy with the results there. - I know I certainly am. I am comparing to a brand new unfired mechanism vs the polished one. If you have lots of rounds down the pipe maybe everything is polished out just from the wear.

Most guys aren't looking at these things as a bunch of simple machines working together so the fact that you understand this is just a simple plane change says a lot. Technically, yes, it would make the trigger pull longer but whether you would be able to tell the difference is questionable.

in terms of changing the connector, only you can decide if you are capable enough to do that but IMO, the glock is the easiest gun to swap parts on that I have ever come across.

[jumpthestack]

When you change the connector, you do trade off weight for distance. i.e., the minus connector results in a lighter trigger pull but the trigger travel after you take up the slack is a little longer, and then the reset is also a little longer.

I like the Glock OEM minus connector. It's still pretty heavy, about 5 pounds on my 17 and I feel safe with it. It's very easy to swap out the connector yourself. I do shoot the minus connector a little better than the stock one but I don't think it makes that much difference either way. You can get a new connector at pretty much any online parts store such as midwayusa.com, brownells.com, glockparts.com, etc.

I think it doesn't really matter who installs it; either way you need to shoot a bunch of rounds through it before you trust it for saving your life.

[DRAB_81]

I didn't like any of the 3.5#/4.5# connectors, including the "-" connector. They all felt mushy to me, and I like a more defined/crisp break. Both of my G20SF's have a good polish job & a GEN 4 "•" connector, but all my other Glocks have bone stock triggers. It's not much lighter (if any lighter at all), but the break & reset are both noticeably nicer. I have learned to love and embrace the stock trigger, so I've become very proficient with it over several thousand rounds of ammo through each one. I like all my triggers to feel as close to exactly the same as possible.


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[HighLander51]

littlejake" I've got the "how it works" part figured out. The connector lifts in a slot -- it's essentially the physics of an inclined plane. Faster ramp gets you there more quickly; but requires more force. Slower ramp takes less force but will require more distance"

The connector does not move at all, it's fixed in the slot of the trigger housing which is pinned to the frame, it's the trigger bar that moves slides past the connector.

[littlejake]

littlejake" I've got the "how it works" part figured out. The connector lifts in a slot -- it's essentially the physics of an inclined plane. Faster ramp gets you there more quickly; but requires more force. Slower ramp takes less force but will require more distance"

The connector does not move at all, it's fixed in the slot of the trigger housing which is pinned to the frame, it's the trigger bar that moves slides past the connector.

Why the change in angle on the connector? How does that change the trigger pull force?

I think I'm going to take it to a Glock armorer -- anyone know a good one in the SG Valley?

[003]

http://glockstore.com/index/7_Custom+Parts+%26amp%3B+Accessories/

Click the link - - The Glockstore in San diego
Several different ones available. Most are very similar and the ones listed here are all good quality. I would stay away from the ghost connector, as it requires some file work and can be a pain to get it right.

[sirgiles]

Why the change in angle on the connector? How does that change the trigger pull force?

I think I'm going to take it to a Glock armorer -- anyone know a good one in the SG Valley?

proforce is 30 min. from you. all of them are glock armorers.