1911 Guide Rod Question

[locosway]

I have 1911's with both, and it doesn't matter to me either way. I don't find the FLGR to be harder to take down. In fact, one advantage it has is being able to remove the slide with the top end still assembled. As for a tool, you can just use a magazine, or even your finger if you're that kind of person.

[modls7]

TMC , what's right?

I am assuming he means it is possible to have a bull barrel with a standard guide rod and recoil spring plug, because it is.

FLGR's aren't really shunned upon in the competition circuits either, and are entirely legal as far as I know.

I personally don't have an issue with a GI style or a FLGR. I believe they each have their place too. A tungsten / stainless steel FLGR can tame recoil, which is why they are equipped in many guns. If recoil is not an issue, a GI style rod is great for lightening the muzzle and overall weight of the pistol for handling. If you don't think that altering the weight and balance of a gun makes a difference, you probably don't shoot enough and it won't matter either way.

One thing I like about FLGRs though, is not worrying about a spring plug slipping out of your hand and shooting into neverland. Being able to take the top end off and on as a single unit is nice too.

[negolien]

I don't have to use a "tool" to take apart my custom II not sure what the issue is /shrug...Not real hard to depress the plug and rotate the bushing...

[Bull's_eye]

On my Springfield with FLGR you have to use an Allen wrench to that the rod out before you cab depress the bushing and rotate the plug.

[Steelplate45]

All my 1911's are shot in competition, and have FLGRs. To pull the slide assembly I pull the slide back to the disassembly notch and pull out the slide stop pin. Easy to do. Just need to be careful not to idiot scratch the frame.

This also helps avoid frequent remove/replace of the barrel bushing, which is a key accuracy component of all 1911's.

I am assuming he means it is possible to have a bull barrel with a standard guide rod and recoil spring plug, because it is.

FLGR's aren't really shunned upon in the competition circuits either, and are entirely legal as far as I know.

I personally don't have an issue with a GI style or a FLGR. I believe they each have their place too. A tungsten / stainless steel FLGR can tame recoil, which is why they are equipped in many guns. If recoil is not an issue, a GI style rod is great for lightening the muzzle and overall weight of the pistol for handling. If you don't think that altering the weight and balance of a gun makes a difference, you probably don't shoot enough and it won't matter either way.

One thing I like about FLGRs though, is not worrying about a spring plug slipping out of your hand and shooting into neverland. Being able to take the top end off and on as a single unit is nice too.

[Sunday]

FLGR suck big time. I remove them. J Browning didn't seen to think they were necessary.

[wash]

All my 1911's are shot in competition, and have FLGRs. To pull the slide assembly I pull the slide back to the disassembly notch and pull out the slide stop pin. Easy to do. Just need to be careful not to idiot scratch the frame.

This also helps avoid frequent remove/replace of the barrel bushing, which is a key accuracy component of all 1911's.

This.

I wouldn't spend the money to get a Tungsten guide rod but I'll spend a few bucks for a stainless one just so it's easier to disassemble.

I like my full length guide rods single piece with no tool hole in the middle.

A pansy with no grip strength might not be able to pull back the slide and pop the slide release out at the same time but I don't have that problem.

[natrab]

I disassemble my GIs the same way I do my FLGR, which is taking the slide off first before moving the bushing. With the GI style you just have to cup your hand under the slide as you take it off to keep the spring from bending out, then once you have it controlled release the guide rod with your other hand and slowly remove. It's very controllable this way. With my FLGR I don't use any tool or paper clip, though I do have to rotate the bushing to remove the spring before I can push the barrel forward. I understand this can create a little extra wear on the bushing, but it hardly compares to the wear of the gun being fired.

[JTROKS]

I shortened and Locktite it for I don't need to twist the front part of the rod. I disassemble the gun just like a normal 1911.