Does this look like rust?

[Mossy Man]

Looks like copper. Try Shooter's Choice copper remover.

And...ummm... I have pretty bad eyes but I believe the copper is actually on the lands...

What do you mean lands?

[Fishslayer]

What do you mean lands?

Rifling has "grooves" and "lands." The grooves are the cut out parts and the lands are what's left behind.

[russ69]

I still use CLP, but i used a brass brush on the rod connected to a drill. Gets it really clean.

Not a good idea. Clean with a good brass brush and keep going until the patch doesn't have any green color on it (that's copper oxide).

[Merc1138]

What do you mean lands?

Lands are the high part, grooves are the low part. The bulk of the copper is on the lands in your picture with only a very minor streak in the groove at the 3 o'clock position.

I still use CLP, but i used a brass brush on the rod connected to a drill. Gets it really clean.

Why would you do that? You're just putting tons of additional wear on the rifling. Are you trying to make it into a smoothbore?

[Brandon04GT]

When I bought my 1911 the barrel seemed to have copper fouling from the factory and I tried to clean it out with CLP but it didn't really do anything. I bought some Gunslick bore foam and that helped clean out a lot of it.

[Rekrab]

Looks like copper. Try Shooter's Choice copper remover.

And...ummm... I have pretty bad eyes but I believe the copper is actually on the lands...

That stuff is hardcore, I love it.

[edgalang]

I have a Ruger SR9c. I clean it immediately after every range trip and have the EXACT same picture. I have gone through almost 2k rounds, firing 150-200 rounds per trip and have never used any other cleaner but CLP. Thanks for the thread. I too was curious but never said anything. Guess I'll try Hoppes in the barrel.

[appagohm]

Not a good idea. Clean with a good brass brush and keep going until the patch doesn't have any green color on it (that's copper oxide).

going through with a brass brush and cleaner on tuff caked on residue will take forever. With a drill attached the only damage your'll do is wear out the brush.

I usually just use brush and rod, but alot of times on my shotgun barrels i use this method.

[Merc1138]

going through with a brass brush and cleaner on tuff caked on residue will take forever. With a drill attached the only damage your'll do is wear out the brush.

I usually just use brush and rod, but alot of times on my shotgun barrels i use this method.

Except for the particles that end up attached to the bristles of the brush that polish(lap) the rifling in the wrong direction.

If you're having a tough time removing residue, use a different solvent.

[HPGunner]

Totally normal - especially on non-chrome lined barrels. I would leave as is and wouldn't over brush your bore. As long as your barrel looks nice and shinny without any stuff caked on or streaks - it's fine no matter what color your bore is.

[someR1]

hoppes FTW

[Mossy Man]

Thanks for the replies everyone

I'll try that hoppes #9 benchrest and then if it doesn't come out i'm just going to not worry about it.

[morfeeis]

WOW, I've put about 600-700 rounds down my SR9 and it still looks brand new in the light ( i just looked after i saw your photo). I've been using FrogLube CLP on mine and i'd advise that.

[Mossy Man]

WOW, I've put about 600-700 rounds down my SR9 and it still looks brand new in the light ( i just looked after i saw your photo). I've been using FrogLube CLP on mine and i'd advise that.

i dont know if it came that way from the factory, or it is from the cheap Federal Champion 180gr stuff from walmart.

going to feed it some tul ammo next time (got some from walmart as well) to see if i experience light strikes. These are boxer primed, but i've heard people say they don't do too well in striker pistols.

[slikna99]

I still use CLP, but i used a brass brush on the rod connected to a drill. Gets it really clean.

This method will work in a smoothbore like a shotgun, but I would never suggest it in a rifled barrel.