Sig Trigger issues

[Ccraig38]

I took some pictures of what I'm looking at.

This is where it's a little confusing. Here the "elephant trunk" is flush, but this is also when it snags.
S1230015.jpg



This shows where I think the snag is happening. It's engaging with part 22, the trigger bar. Which seems normal because it looks like it's supposed to engage.
S1230018.jpg

These next two show the "elephant trunk" in the up position and it's not engaged with the trigger bar.
S1230016.jpg

S1230017.jpg


In general, does anything look out of place? Let me know if you want more pictures.

[Bullwinkle]

I'm a bit confused. The Safety Lever shouldn't be "up" if the Trigger Bar isn't engaging it. I mean, that's the whole point of the firing pin block safety system... if the trigger isn't pulled, the firing pin should remain blocked. So that's a question for Sig.

In any event, I think I see your problem. In your photos showing the Trigger Bar, there's a divot in the bottom forward portion of the tab that engages the Safety Lever. I'm pretty sure that divot isn't supposed to be there. See, for example, the photo of the Trigger Bar at Top Gun Supply or this enlarged photo from Midway USA. So the Safety Lever is probably sticking in that divot. Looks like a new Trigger Bar will do the job (knock on wood). As I suggested earlier, contact Sig Customer Service. They'll e-mail a shipping label and take care of it for you free of charge. The only down side is you'll be w/o your pistol for a few weeks, but it's time well invested.

Also, FYI, I see another potential problem waiting to occur. The Trigger Bar is designed to be cammed down by the Hammer Pivot Pin (31) in DA mode, so you want your Hammer Pivot Pin to be sticking out further on the right side; you do not want it to be flush with the frame.

HTH. Let us know how the problem gets resolved.

[Ccraig38]

Well... I have some good news and I have some bad news. I'm typically a bad news first kind of guy, but this is different.

Good news: I fixed the "snag". Was pretty simple actually. I took out the Safety Lever and the Trigger Bar, lightly filed down the sharp contact points, plus some lubricant and it smooth once again. So that's great...

Bad news: After reassembly (which included reading manuals online and watching videos), I dry fired it, the hammer does not reset, it just sits on the firing pin and does not retract to its regular position. So when I pull the trigger again, all the way back, nothing happens. The only way to reset the hammer is my manually doing it with my thumb or pushing the Decocking Lever enough to reset it. So I guess there is a chance I didn't reassemble it correct, but I'm pretty sure I did.

As shown, hammer cocked, ready to go. Normal.
S1240002.jpg

Next, trigger is pulled, strikes firing pin. Normal.
S1240003.jpg

Lastly, trigger is released, hammer does not retract. Not normal.
S1240004.jpg

Any ideas for this one?

[thai562]

Check hammer reset spring #20 red. This little spring is what pull the hammer back.

[Bullwinkle]

Congratulations on "fixing" your gun.

With all due respect, I'm only going to say "Contact Sig Customer Service" so many times. By doing your own fix, you just voided your warranty and introduced a new problem in the process!

The leg of the Reset Spring (38) has to sit on top of the Hammer Strut Pin (30).

You're on your own from here.

Edited to add:
Oh, and by filing down the contact surface(s), you may have just changed the timing of when the Safety Lever and Sear are moved out of their rest positions, which could potentially disrupt the firing sequence. I hope by "lightly filed" you really mean lightly.

[Sturnovik]

I agree. My 20 year old Sig has never had issues or this one. Or any other Sigs and I've shot them alot. I'd contact sig customer service if the issue persists. Good choice in guns, that sig should last a long time.

[Yerman]

Not sure what you did and not sure I really understand the problem you are stating. I would take a look at it if I was close to you but I'm not.

I would take it to a local gunsmith to have a look at. Then, I would buy the SRT kit. Not the short trigger but the SRT kit. That would have been my first step. You won't regret it...

[Ccraig38]

Congratulations on "fixing" your gun.

With all due respect, I'm only going to say "Contact Sig Customer Service" so many times. By doing your own fix, you just voided your warranty and introduced a new problem in the process!

The leg of the Reset Spring (38) has to sit on top of the Hammer Strut Pin (30).

You're on your own from here.

Edited to add:
Oh, and by filing down the contact surface(s), you may have just changed the timing of when the Safety Lever and Sear are moved out of their rest positions, which could potentially disrupt the firing sequence. I hope by "lightly filed" you really mean lightly.

Well, this is what I get for being impatient. I agree with you and I understand what you are saying. As for the filing, it was light enough to get rid of the sharp edge that was catching the Safety lever. Now, for the leg of the Reset Spring sitting on the Hammer strut spring. From what I can tell, it doesn't look like it is. But I'm not even going to mess with it anymore. I called Sig about getting an SRT kit for it. I really appreciate your help and I also appreciate your honesty. Thank you.

[Yerman]

Also, consider picking this up...

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22191/Product/SIG-SAUER-ARMORER-S-COURSE-1-2

[truep]

Hate to say it, but like someone said, I'm pretty sure you didn't put the reset spring correctly on top of the pin in the hammer. Most likely, you've also broken the spring now and will need a new one.

Also, NEVER use a file on a handgun!!! At worst, use 600-1000 grit sandpaper, and very lightly with that (some people wouldn't use anything beyond metal polish, but some metal polishes are even coarser than 600 grit)...looking at your pic's, there should be much more grease in there, around the trigger bar contact area's especially. My 226 has had an action job, and is smooth as butter. My P220 didn't need one- was smooth from the get-go.

[mrdd]

Hate to say it, but like someone said, I'm pretty sure you didn't put the reset spring correctly on top of the pin in the hammer. Most likely, you've also broken the spring now and will need a new one.

I agree that the rebound spring is not correctly placed on the hammer strut pin. But, that does not mean the spring is broken, but to fix it you would need to remove the sear and hammer again. It is a simple fix, as long as you are willing to disassemble it again.

When you are repositioning the hammer, just make sure that the leg of the rebound spring (38) falls on top of the hammer strut pin (30). It is easy to verify the correct placement once the hammer pin (31) is replaced, just examine it from the rear and verify that you can push forward on the hammer, and that it rebounds to the rear when you release it.