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  • #31
    ninjawho?
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2011
    • 649

    Originally posted by JosephP
    It is different story if you have hi-end custom 1911s...
    Bushing is very tight and you are not able to turn it with your bare hand.
    I prefer wilson combat wrench since it is made with polymer to not scratch your pistol.
    this......
    Calguns hermit
    Left Wing or right wing..argue all you want the flight plan stays the same.

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    • #32
      PRCABR4Christ
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2009
      • 954

      Originally posted by AeroEngi
      That would be sweet!!!

      Do you think they will just send me a new barrel or will they have me ship the gun to them for fitting/installing the new barrel?
      A new barrel will need to be fit to your slide
      Good saddles ain't cheap...and cheap saddles ain't good

      I have a custom spur and western decoration business! http://www.facebook.com/pages/JH-Spurs/211804625565944 & http://www.etsy.com/shop/JHSpurs?ref=si_shop

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      • #33
        xibunkrlilkidsx
        Calguns Addict
        • Sep 2008
        • 5419




        rookies....Once again this proves that Mr. Browning was a GENIUS!
        ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
        PSN Id: FNChester
        Certified Welder-ANSI/AWS D1.2 1F/G, 2F/G, 3 F/G up to 1/2 plate aluminium GTAW. &
        D1.1 1F/G, 2F/G, 3F/G unlimited range, Steel SMAW
        I can make custom shooting targets and paracord accesories. PM me.

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        • #34
          AeroEngi
          Veteran Member
          • Oct 2010
          • 2887

          Thanks for all your help guys.

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          • #35
            renardsubtil
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2008
            • 1659

            Originally posted by monk
            Is it ok to soak the entire barrel? My XD has a crap load of copper fouling. I ran some hoppes copper solvent twice, brushing between and it cleaned it a bit but not as much as I would've liked.

            I never use hoppes on the outside of a barrel or on my blued frame. I use it mainly to remove the copper build up, that's all.
            Soak just the inside of the barrel, let it sit for like 15-30 minutes or so, wipe the inside like hell and take note of the green copper residue (remember to use a plastic brush too since a copper one will get messed up from the Hoppes). Follow up with a few patches of CLP and the usual clean patches to dry it up.
            "Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

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            • #36
              AeroEngi
              Veteran Member
              • Oct 2010
              • 2887

              Just an update for those of you that are interested. I sent the gun back to Springfield for the barrel issue and some other minor issues. I emailed them the picture and they said the machining marks were totally not normal. Gave it to Fedex yesterday morning and Springfield received it this morning; really fast shipping! So far, I'm really impressed with their CS.

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              • #37
                GMG
                Calguns Addict
                • Dec 2008
                • 7974

                A wealth of information in this thread..........Thank you!
                sigpic

                A member of The Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club

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                • #38
                  AeroEngi
                  Veteran Member
                  • Oct 2010
                  • 2887

                  Originally posted by GMG
                  A wealth of information in this thread..........Thank you!
                  Glad this thread is of some use!

                  Comment

                  • #39
                    Bullwinkle
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2008
                    • 565

                    Originally posted by Buddhabelly
                    The 1911 was designed to be completely detail-stripped with no tools.
                    Yes... but I have yet to find anyone who is capable of removing the mainspring housing retaining pin with just the safety plunger! Need a hammer & punch for that one.

                    So what part of the (Series 80) 1911 can you use to position the two firing pin block safety arms correctly in the frame?

                    Originally posted by PRCABR4Christ
                    +1, also the grip screws were meant to be disassembled using the mag as well
                    I thought it was a .45ACP casing? That's why on (real) 1911s there's a slight curve to the bottom of the screw slot. Doesn't really matter. Few, if any, even bother to make them correctly anymore... and with those ugly hex-head and torx grip screws that are replacing the standard slotted ones, well... tool required.

                    Yeah, I'm not going to jump on the 1911 bandwagon, or off it, or argue about how great JMB was or wasn't, but there's no denying that the 1911 was one of the most well thought-out designs ever as far as practicality in the field goes.
                    John

                    Factory Certified Sig Sauer Armorer
                    P.O.S.T. Certified Armorer: 1911 pistols, AR-15/M16/M4 weapon systems, Glock handguns, Remington 870 shotgun, Sig Sauer handguns.
                    Certified Sig Sauer P320 Armorer

                    Let's Go Brandon

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