1911 Field Strip

[InGrAM]

I used to use the magazine floor plate. You just push and turn. Kind if like a bushing wrench. I use a plastic bushing wrench now.

[redcliff]

One more question guys. After cleaning the barrel, I noticed these lines/marks that go across the lands inside the barrel approximately an eighth of an inch from the muzzle. It's at the same location on each land. Is this normal? I've never seen it on any other handgun. Here's a pic

My guess (and its only a guess) is its some type of machining chatter marks from the muzzle crown cutting tool or pilot for it. You might want to send that picture to Springfield Armory in an e-mail and get their take on it.

[AeroEngi]

My guess (and its only a guess) is its some type of machining chatter marks from the muzzle crown cutting tool or pilot for it. You might want to send that picture to Springfield Armory in an e-mail and get their take on it.

Thanks man. I'll definitely send them an email first thing in the morning.

[redcliff]

By the way, thanks for the kind words guys. If I have any 1911 wisdom to pass on to all my friends here it's only because I've lived with em so darn long and made lots of mistakes and had good teachers to help me out. Fortunately I find 1911's easier to be around than a lot of women I've known and a lot less maintenance intensive.

It sucks getting old but you learn a lot of trivia along the way

And back to the subject of 1911's being their own toolkit, my personal favorite part is J.M. Browning including a screwdriver on the sear spring to remove the magazine release.

[PRCABR4Christ]

And back to the subject of 1911's being their own toolkit, my personal favorite part is J.M. Browning including a screwdriver on the sear spring to remove the magazine release.

I learn something new every day, I never thought about that...right on!

I will say this though, the good thing about a bushing wrench is that you don't goober up the checkering if your spring plug is so equipped

[Cuda440]

I usually disassemble my 1911's also by removing the slide first and cupping my left hand tightly under the recoil spring as I push the slide off. Reassembly that way can be difficult though.

Although the magazine floorplate is designed to serve as a bushing wrench, its quite easy to marr the finish if you use it as one, I prefer the heavy nylon bushing wrenches.

And I never, ever turn the bushing while the bushing is in its lock-up position with the barrel, I use an empty case positioned like a stovepipe to keep the slide retracted a bit so that the bushing when turned is farther down the taper of the barrel and doesnt make hard contact where it can cause burrs in the bearing surface of the bushing. This is especially important if you use an ange bored match bushing.

Yeah, I didn't even think about that, I use CMC powermags that have a nylon baseplate. I normally grip the gun around the barrel in my left hand with the muzzle up, with my thumb and index finger where I can turn the bushing, and I use the mag in my right hand to push the barrel plug. Push in, turn the bushing, then you can use your left thumb and finger to grab the plug as you release pressure so that it doesnt shoot across the room.

[dalriaden]

Push in, turn the bushing, then you can use your left thumb and finger to grab the plug as you release pressure so that it doesnt shoot across the room.

Which is exactly what happened the first time I cleaned my kimber

[AeroEngi]

Ok, I sent the email and picture to Springfield. I'll let you guys know what happens when they reply back. Again, thanks for all your help.

[t0kie]

They will take care of you, #1 cust. service. You may get a new barrel for free

Ok, I sent the email and picture to Springfield. I'll let you guys know what happens when they reply back. Again, thanks for all your help.

[AeroEngi]

They will take care of you, #1 cust. service. You may get a new barrel for free

That would be sweet!!!

Do you think they will just send me a new barrel or will they have me ship the gun to them for fitting/installing the new barrel?

[JosephP]

This.

The 1911 was designed to be completely detail-stripped with no tools.

It is different story if you have hi-end custom 1911s...
Bushing is very tight and you are not able to turn it with your bare hand.
I prefer wilson combat wrench since it is made with polymer to not scratch your pistol.

[renardsubtil]

One more question guys. After cleaning the barrel, I noticed these lines/marks that go across the lands inside the barrel approximately an eighth of an inch from the muzzle. It's at the same location on each land. Is this normal? I've never seen it on any other handgun. Here's a pic

That could be copper build up from the jacketed ammo. You may want to try and soak that barrel with Hoppes 9 for 30 minutes or so until you see green crap build up in the barrel from the copper disintegrating, then clean the barrel with CLP and a wire brush as usual.

That copper build up is pretty common. I think I use Hoppes to clean it copper residue out once every 500-1000 rounds.

[AeroEngi]

That could be copper build up from the jacketed ammo. You may want to try and soak that barrel with Hoppes 9 for 30 minutes or so until you see green crap build up in the barrel from the copper disintegrating, then clean the barrel with CLP and a wire brush as usual.

That copper build up is pretty common. I think I use Hoppes to clean it copper residue out once every 500-1000 rounds.

Ya I dunno man. I looked at the same area in my Sig P220 and it had nothing like that in the barrel. I'll clean the crap out of it when I get home tonight. It's a long shot cuz they look/feel like marks left by some kind of tool. I guess this is all I can do until Springfield replies to my email. I'll probably call them on Monday too.

[helpme]

BUSHING WRENCH! Buy one

Or just check the box your gun came in because alot of the nicer 1911's come with a plastic bushing wrench straight from the factory...

[monk]

That could be copper build up from the jacketed ammo. You may want to try and soak that barrel with Hoppes 9 for 30 minutes or so until you see green crap build up in the barrel from the copper disintegrating, then clean the barrel with CLP and a wire brush as usual.

That copper build up is pretty common. I think I use Hoppes to clean it copper residue out once every 500-1000 rounds.

Is it ok to soak the entire barrel? My XD has a crap load of copper fouling. I ran some hoppes copper solvent twice, brushing between and it cleaned it a bit but not as much as I would've liked.