S&W cylinder lock up

[map]

I have a model 27 revolver and the wheel locked up on me. The trigger won't pull and the hammer won't cock. I checked the internal lock and it was not engaged. Any suggestions on what the issue is?

I wrote to S&W and am hoping to be able to send this back under warranty.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

[tzahoy]

Probably the ejector rod started to come unscrewed from the cylinder. They're usually left hand thread, but some are right hand. You'll probably need three hands to do this, but with the trigger pulled part way back you can rotate the cylinder. If you wrap a small screw drive with electrical tape you can wedge it between the ejector rod and the groove it sits in. Then pull the trigger part way back, and rotate the cylinder while keeping pressure on the ejector rod with the screwdriver. Some people have done this succesfully with needle nose pliers, but I'm too afraid of scratching stuff.

You just need to get it screwed in far enough to be able to open the cylinder. Once you open it you can tighten the ejector rod properly. I use a vise padded with cork lined soft jaws to hold the ejector rod, and then tighten the cylinder.

[bjl333]

what tzahoy said !!

also check under the extractor for powder and stuff. if something is under the star it could casue what you said.

[map]

Thanks for the suggestions. What do you think caused this?

[tzahoy]

It probably wasn't tightened properly last time it was taken apart.

[map]

Got it. Thanks.

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

Caution: If it is a loosened ejector rod, don't grasp it with pliers or similar instruments - while tzahoy's method will work, you may want to invest in a specific tool (Midway has it, Brownell's probably does, too). If/when you go to tighten the ejector rod, two things to remember; one, it's left-hand threaded and two, you would be very wise to support the extractor star (placing at least three empty cases in alternate charge holes will work, snap caps will work also) to avoid damaging the extractor star or the locating pins on the rear face of the cylinder. A little blue Locktite will help keep it from happening again.

[drkphibr]

Another suggestion...

I had this happen to a recent PPT. Instead of taking the revolver home and cleaning it, I brought ammo the the PPT (indoor range) and as soon as it was "mine", put about 100 rounds through it. The revolver was dirty when I accepted it, but didn't seem that bad (also didn't look too closely).

Cylinder locked up exactly as you described. Took it home and there was nothing mechanically I could see wrong. Sprayed CLP all over the cylinder area and let it sit. Finally worked it free. Carbon build up around forcing cone that caused the problem. Cleaned it like it should have been cleaned and haven't had a problem since. The range wanted take a screwdriver to it first thing. No way. Last resort in my book. Hope this helps.

[RenegadeRebel]

I thought 6 shooters were the epiphany of reliable?

[Glock-a-mole]

I once owned a Charter Arms Undercover .38 which, while shooting it the first time, began to get harder and harder to shoot DA. After a bit of puzzlement I noticed that the barrel had heated up to the point that the forcing cone was making contact with the cylinder preventing it from rotating.

That's the only issue I've ever had with a revolver, FWIW...

[anothergunnut]

I thought 6 shooters were the epiphany of reliable?

No, but they are the epitomy of reliability

The epiphany is when you realize that a Glock, although efficient, lacks character.

[sequoia_nomad]

I thought 6 shooters were the epiphany of reliable?

The word is actually "epitome". Look it up.

[762cavalier]

^^^^^^

[Fishslayer]

Cylinder locked up exactly as you described. Took it home and there was nothing mechanically I could see wrong. Sprayed CLP all over the cylinder area and let it sit. Finally worked it free. Carbon build up around forcing cone that caused the problem. Cleaned it like it should have been cleaned and haven't had a problem since. The range wanted take a screwdriver to it first thing. No way. Last resort in my book. Hope this helps.

Cylinder gap plays a part in this. My '82 Taurus (.007 gap) will shoot all day.
My '52 S&W (.003 gap) is good for about 60 rounds of handloads before it starts to tighten up.

If the gun has a lock I BELIEVE the ejector rod is left hand thread? I could be wrong there. But yes, blue Loc Tite. I see a lot of threads about stuff working loose. I don't unnerstand why people have such an aversion to Loc Tite.

I own a Harley. The inventor of anaerobic thread sealing compound is my gawd!

[Fishslayer]

Well, whaddaya know?

At the range yesterday with my sorta-new-to-me 686 no dash & had that exact same problem after about 18 rounds of Big Dogs.

Sho nuff it was the ejector rod backing out. Tightened it up & GTG.

Cleaned it this AM & put some blue Loc Tite on the threads.

Be careful. Too much & it'll get where ya definitely don't want it.

And yes. It is a left hand thread. S&W started doing that so the tendancy is for it to tighten instead of loosen as the cylinder turns.