Glock Cleaning/Lubing

[Jicko]

I've used M-Pro7 to clean and Hoppes #9 to lube.

+1 on MPro7 stuff.

For my competition(IDPA/IPSC) G19, I use their gel for cleaning, and their oil for lube.

But since it is a glock.... I run maybe 1000+ rounds thru mine before I clean, ie. maybe once a month

[BigMac]

You have to clean and lube Glocks?

You beat me too it

[m1aowner]

I use spit and a dirty rag to clean my Glocks.

[donger]

I use spit and a dirty rag to clean my Glocks.

Funny, I just pee on mine and through the barrel to get rid of the copper fouling.

[SVTNate]

I field strip the gun, then detail strip the slide.

Each part gets scrubbed with a nylon brush, Simple Green, and hot water. Rinse, dry with air compressor. I use Q-Tips in the slide (firing pin channel and where you put the extractor) and in the frame (several areas). No need to strip the frame... there are plenty of places for the water to escape. I've been cleaning Glocks (and many other pistols) this way for years, and never seen rust. I have detail stripped Glock frames and all the hidden areas are clean using my cleaning method. The key is to be sure you dry everything thoroughly, and quickly. I submit that nobody has cleaner Glocks than I do, and it's both cheap (Simple Green and a barrel solvent is all you need) and quick. Furthermore, cleanup afterward is simple. You have a few Q-Tips, and no oily/greasy solvents or pile of dirty patches.

My Glocks are CCW weapons. If I felt that there was a better way to clean a Glock, I would do it.

[Teletiger7]

I've seen glocks operate fine even when almost completely dry. I would even say they actually prefer being slightly dry than being over lubed.

[markymark]

I used to be anal about keeping all my guns clean after every range trip. I don't even bother anymore, especially if it gets a lot of use. What's the point if it's going to get dirty again?

[PLINK]

He is what I do.

To clean barrel (I use moly bullets so YMMV):

Pass two patches on a jag, soaked with Kroil - let it sit for 5 min
Pass two patches on a jag, soaked with Barnes - let it sit for 5 min
Pass Barnes soaked brass brush though 10 times (1 foward and 1 back = 1 time)
Pass patches of Barnes til patches come out clean (one way only)
Pass two evenly coated patches of CLP for storage (one way only)
Put one to two drops of CLP on barrel and evenly coat the entire outside of the barrel using finger.

All passes are through chamber to muzzle.

Slide:

Completely wipe out slide with a clean, dry lap tape, cloth, or red rag from autozone.
Put one drop of CLP on slide where the barrel hood makes contact. I spread this evenly with my finger.
Put one drop of CLP on firing pin safety - push it up and down a few time to get the oil in the hole.

Frame:

Completely wipe out of frame with a clean, dry lap tape, cloth, or red rag from autozone.
1 drop of CLP on connector
1 drop of CLP on lock block
Lightly coat frame rails with Brian Enos Slide Glide using Q-Tip.

Before practice or match:

Field strip and pass two clean, dry patches on a jag through barrel (again through the chamber end to muzzle). I only push these one way. Wipe of feed ramp and re-assemble.

Sounds like a lot but I can knock this out 15 min. I do the frame and slide while barrel is soaking. I do this after every session.

The beauty of Glocks is they are so easy to clean. It takes me 45 min to clean my stainless 1911 to my standards. Lots of Q-Tips.

FWIW - Some of the guys I shoot matches with do not clean their Glocks often (just add oil sometimes) and I have never seen them have a failure, etc.

[DrjonesUSA]

Thought CLP was fine - never be ashamed to ask a question. I just hate it when people give me bad information. I am debating whether or not to clean it fully before taking it to the range. It seems perfectly lubed right now - barrel looks great.

YES detail strip it and clean it fully before taking it to the range.

Just because it's brand new from the factory does NOT mean it is clean & ready to go.

If you do not know how to detail strip it, there are many great tutorials with tons of pictures on the web.

[tiki]

I field strip the gun, then detail strip the slide.

Each part gets scrubbed with a nylon brush, Simple Green, and hot water. Rinse, dry with air compressor. I use Q-Tips in the slide (firing pin channel and where you put the extractor) and in the frame (several areas). No need to strip the frame... there are plenty of places for the water to escape. I've been cleaning Glocks (and many other pistols) this way for years, and never seen rust. I have detail stripped Glock frames and all the hidden areas are clean using my cleaning method. The key is to be sure you dry everything thoroughly, and quickly. I submit that nobody has cleaner Glocks than I do, and it's both cheap (Simple Green and a barrel solvent is all you need) and quick. Furthermore, cleanup afterward is simple. You have a few Q-Tips, and no oily/greasy solvents or pile of dirty patches.

My Glocks are CCW weapons. If I felt that there was a better way to clean a Glock, I would do it.

I do the same thing on mine, Glock and 1911s. Let me ask you though, once you clean it up with the Simple Green, rinse it out with water and blow it out with compressed air, do you CLP all of it or do you leave portions of the frame and slide dry and only hit the slide rails, firing pin spring and safety, etc...

I think i'm over doing mine a bit. Trying to get the CLP to some of the tight spots is tough and I haven't been leaving any of the metal areas dry. In some spots, i'll spray the CLP on and then just wipe it down with a rag. Any suggestions?

[SVTNate]

tiki,

On a Glock frame, I just use a CLP-soaked Q-Tip on the slide rails and the trigger mechanism "stuff" at the back of the frame. Oh, and the top of the trigger bar, where it contacts the firing pin block.

I wipe down the rest with CLP pretty thoroughly. I don't bother wiping down the plunger that goes behind the extractor, but everything else inside the slide gets CLP. Not dripping, but I get it all wet with a soaked patch and a soaked Q-Tip for the rail cutouts and the holes for the striker and extractor.

I used to coat the outside of the slide as well and wipe it down to a nice sheen, but since my Glocks are CCW weapons now, I don't want to coat my holster and potentially my clothes. When I'm done, I actually use a non-ammonia glass cleaner (spray away from Costco) to totally wipe down the outside of the slide where I may have gotten oily fingerprints. I also wipe the exposed part of the lock block *mostly* dry.

I do the Simple Green/water/air compressor method with my Sigs, Glocks, and HK's. I also do it with disassembled 1911 slides, but not the frames, as I don't think you can get the inside of the mainspring housing dry without doing a detail strip. You can with the USP, and the Sigs.

[scewper]

You have to clean and lube Glocks?

My thoughts exactly.

[tiki]

tiki,

On a Glock frame, I just use a CLP-soaked Q-Tip on the slide rails and the trigger mechanism "stuff" at the back of the frame. Oh, and the top of the trigger bar, where it contacts the firing pin block.

I wipe down the rest with CLP pretty thoroughly. I don't bother wiping down the plunger that goes behind the extractor, but everything else inside the slide gets CLP. Not dripping, but I get it all wet with a soaked patch and a soaked Q-Tip for the rail cutouts and the holes for the striker and extractor.

I used to coat the outside of the slide as well and wipe it down to a nice sheen, but since my Glocks are CCW weapons now, I don't want to coat my holster and potentially my clothes. When I'm done, I actually use a non-ammonia glass cleaner (spray away from Costco) to totally wipe down the outside of the slide where I may have gotten oily fingerprints. I also wipe the exposed part of the lock block *mostly* dry.

I do the Simple Green/water/air compressor method with my Sigs, Glocks, and HK's. I also do it with disassembled 1911 slides, but not the frames, as I don't think you can get the inside of the mainspring housing dry without doing a detail strip. You can with the USP, and the Sigs.

I do a detail strip of my 1911's. I pull everything off that comes off, sear, mainspring, safety, firing pin/spring, all of it.

[supersonic]

You wanted the BEST, you've found the BEST:http://www.hostonline2001.com/Mercha...ry_Code=mc2500
This stuff leaves everything else in the dust (if you are REALLY serious about being picky about cleaning/lubrication products), but it ain't cheap! Oh, and you won't have to use Q-Tips for your smaller areas/slide rails, as the lube comes in handy syringes!
S.S.