S&W Model 10-5 issues

[Armedwino]

Hi All,

I had a Smith and Wesson 10-5 .38 spl with 2" barrel transferred to me by a family member a while back. Checking the numbers, I think it was made in the 1970's. I shot a box or so of target ammo and a few cylinders of defensive loads through it and locked it up, stoked with my acquisition.

Recently though, I have been shooting it some more, as it is surprisingly accurate and has a great trigger (usually). Plus it looks like it came straight out of a classic detective movie. When I fire it though, the cylinder seems to bind or something every few shots. I can still shoot it, but it messes up my double action pull for sure.

I thought it might be funky primers deforming and pressing back, slowing the cylinder. I have tried various factory loads, though, and it still happens. The rounds are not unseating (as can happen with the Airweight/light alloy frame revolvers) and there does not seen to any crud on the cylinder face or forcing cone. It does not do this dry firing empty or even really with fired cases in place. I am afraid to open it up, as revolver timing is really beyond my limited expertise. This was an ex-police gun with significant holster wear and may have been worked on.

Any ideas or solutions? I am afraid if I employ the services of a gunsmith, I will be well into the price of a new wheelgun by the time this gets dealt with. I really dig the gun though, and want it to be a possible defensive piece, but if it is unreliable, that is out.

Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks!

[MrOrange]

You said every few shots; could that be every few cylinders?

Sometimes unburned powder can get under the ejector star and put a drag on things.

[Armedwino]

To be specific, It's like every five or six shots. Like there's one chamber that is having a problem. Looking at it though, the lockup seems great, better that some new revolvers I own. Maybe it's too tight? The ejector (extractor?) star is squeaky clean top and bottom.

[MrOrange]

The fact that it doesn't do it when empty or with fired cases in place is what's boggling me down. That rules out any problem in the innards proper.

I'd guess some kind of interference between the ejector star and the recoil shield, perhaps just one cut on the star is out of spec. Try inking the star and the recoil shield up with a Sharpie and dry-firing it to see if any spot gets rubbed off more than others. It could also be a problem with the hand hitting one bad cut on the star.

Besides the expanded brass, mebbe just the weight of loaded rounds exacerbates the problem.

[c good]

Make sure the ejector rod isn't loose.

[dfletcher]

I wouldn't be surpised if one of the ratchet teeth on the ejector star was a bit rough or cut differently than the others, maybe a bur. The Smith uses a single stage hand and it rotates the cylinder by first lifting from under the ratchet then from the side. You can see how the teeth are cut, if one has a different angle from the others it changes the leverage required, you'll feel it in the trigger pull. Try thumb cocking the hammer slowly, if that's it it should be eaiser to feel.

If that is the case you'll have to identify the correct ratchet tooth - it's not the one directly next to the problem cylinder, it will be closer to 3 o'clock.

Just something to check for.

[trashman]

Make sure the ejector rod isn't loose.

^^^^ This. Or bent...

--Neill

[kurac]

Or it could be the bullets are jumping under recoil and dragging on the forcing cone. Next time fire four or five shots and pull the last round out to see if the bullet moved out a bit.

[bjl333]

Check UNDER the extractor star for powder.

[Riodog]

You might try cleaning it really well. Including, the forcing cone, under the extractor, the recoil shield, etc.
Rio

[bwiese]

Do a retest with quality name-brand factory ammo. Try some FMJs, JHPs, and LRNs.

[bussda]

When firing, start with a different chamber each time. If one chamber, always has the problem, gives a starting point. Different chamber could lead to old dried gunk (oil) in the action because it was unused for a long time.
And I DO NOT recommend taking off the side plate.

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

You don't need to think about opening it up just yet.

Open the cylinder and rotate it, watch the ejector rod. See if it is straight.

Check to see if the ejector rod is tightened. It's left hand threaded, and you need to support the extractor star when you do it (inserting three empty cases in alternate charge holes will do). If it's loose and you don't have the correct tool for this, I do (and I'm in Sonoma County). Do NOT use pliers or other similar tools to grip the ejector rod, you'll bend it and/or gouge the surface.

Check under the extractor star for debris/unburned powder. Clean it thoroughly.

Those are the most common problems.

When you close the cylinder, look at the crane (the part that supports the cylinder and connects it to the frame). Look for gaps between the crane and frame that might indicate that the crane is bent. This happens to revolvers that have the cylinders closed by moving the frame quickly (commonly seen in movies and TV).