Gun Cleaning Process

[HPGunner]

I've heard somewhere that if you line the inside of your barrel with oil or CLP for storage you need to remember to run a dry patch or bore snake through prior to shooting it so that you don't shoot it with a film of oil in the barrel.

[glock7]

hoppes 9, clean and wipe everything down. get the gunk off and out. lube with hoppes oil. after that i go with clp after each shooting session. enjoy.

[mhho]

Clean in a very well ventilated area. Some of those solvents can be pretty bad to breathe in.

Good point. The old ammonia solvents can be quite noxious but the modern solvents are not bad at all when it comes to smell. Try Bore Tech or M-Pro 7 for less smelly but effective solvents:

http://www.boretech.com/docs/chemicalguide.shtml

http://www.mpro7.com/MPro7-Gun-Cleaner.html

[esartori]

+1 on the bore snake. They work amazing. I usually put some cleaner in the barrel right when I take my gun apart and let it soak, then clean the frame, slide, etc, and then run the bore snake through the barrel five times or so at the end. Gotta love that mirror finish when u look through the barrel after

I use ballistol as a cleaner and lube, and tetra grease for the rails. I field strip after every range trip and detail every 500-750 rounds but I enjoy cleaning my guns

[Bill Steele]

CLP to clean most everything - I like it best cause it doesn't smell.
CL oil to lube everything - because the bottle matches the CLP and makes my bench look sano, which it really isn't.

I have a lot of bore snakes, but end up only using them on rifles and shotguns, pistols are just too easy to clean with a rod to bother with a snake I have to wash (just me).

[Halfey]

I love my M&P. Here's a cut down version of how I clean mine.

What you will need:
hoppes #9 (solvent), Breakfree CLP(oil/cleaner), clean wrags, cleaning rod, bore brush, patch jag, cotton patches, Q tips.

1. Field strip. Give the bore a soaking coat of solvent then set aside to give it time to work

2. Clean the slide and inside of the frame(all those small metal parts) with breakfree clp. Don't forget the rails and the fireing pin cannal.

3. Wipe down with clean cloth.

4. Grab that barrel. Attach bore brush dip in solvent, give no less than 10 passes.

5. Replace bore brush with patch jag. Place cotton patch over jag, dip in solvent and pass through bore breach to muzzell. Remove dirty patch replace with clean one. Dip in solvent and repeat this process until patch comes out clean. (the idea is to push all the crud out the muzzel).

6. Once bore is clean, run dry patch with jag until dry.

7. Clean outside of barrel and chamber with breakfree clp. Wipe clean.

8. Generously coat bore with breakfree clp.

9. Oil gun down with breakfree clp per manual recomendation. Also oil all metal secfaces lightly as well as springs to prevent rust. You do not need to oil your mags.

10. Reassemble gun and function test.

Sorry if I for got something I kinda just threw this together. You get the idea. Also check out utube. Lots of people have videos on this

[patrickstarfish]

I hate the fumes coming from Hoppes and CLP. You guys really don't need to go through the foul odor unless you really enjoy the fumes.

You guys need to try out MPro7 or Simple green as cleaners.
KG bore clean
Slip 2000 for lube.

There is no faster, cleaner, effective way to clean and lube your weapons. Give them a try, change doesn't hurt, only smells better.

[Sturnovik]

Just got the M&P home, first gun I've personally owned. I've done the search, and read a few threads but they vary. For Handguns only, what is your cleaning process (just field striping), and what products are you using? Dont have to get into too much detail. Basically everything after breaking down the gun, to Re-Assembly and Lube. Thanks for the Input.

Dont over lubricate the gun. People put so much damn lube on the rails and barrel it leaks and its just pointless and a waste of lube. Just put some on the rails no matter what, but dont over do it.

[DrunkN_MastR]

I bought a kit on the cheap from turners, came with the Tetra Gun solution. I was told (and the label also claims) that it's good for both cleaning and lubing the gun. Your guys' thoughts?

[mhho]

For lube, I follow this video so it is pretty easy and it does not run when stored for a long period of time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGobEpUO3Uc

[jackandblood]

Dont over lubricate the gun. People put so much damn lube on the rails and barrel it leaks and its just pointless and a waste of lube. Just put some on the rails no matter what, but dont over do it.

Agreed.

dab, then wipe. it's sometimes hard to see and control how much is applied. I almost always find I applied too much even when i was just using gravity to get a dab of tetra out. so I lightly wipe the area after. Gun lube has almost no viscosity. it'll just seep out of everywhere, if you're not careful.

[jackandblood]

I use this. I'm not too sure about the thing being a solvent and lubricant at the same time, sounds like when WD-40 is used inappropriately.

I too would appreciate feedback on Tetra, and the majority of gun lubes, which say they do the solvent thing and lubrication as well.

I bought a kit on the cheap from turners, came with the Tetra Gun solution. I was told (and the label also claims) that it's good for both cleaning and lubing the gun. Your guys' thoughts?

[patrickstarfish]

I had no luck with solvent & lube combination solutions. I wasted a lot of time, energy, money going that route when I first started.

They work. But not fast and efficient enough for me. Cleaning and lubricating should be different steps.

[Fuel&Fire]

So while researching I've somewhat came to the conclusion of using Slip 2000 - http://www.slip2000.com/lubricant_info.html for my lubricant. Then getting either a CLP, Solvent, or De-greaser (Hoppes Elite, Simple Green, BreakFree, etc.)

Slip 2000 also has a cleaner/Degreaser (725), and a "Carbon Killer" as well. Anyone have any experience with these? My only worry is that they dont provide any moisture displacement, or "lube" during the cleaning process. So does that mean you would have to lightly oil the entire gun after using these products? I figure a CLP would be better in this instance, and just using the Slip 2000 on the Metal to Metal contact. They mention something about being to able to rinse your weapon with warm Water after the degreaser/carbon killer application, which I thought was a Big NO NO when cleaning guns (Water/Moisture + Gun/Metal = BAD/RUST) Thoughts?

[rogervzv]

I have always just cleaned with hoppes no. 9. Is simple green really ok to use for cleaning prior to lubing? Never heard that one. Can't hurt the gun?