1911 Frame Durability

[Prepped and ready]

My Kimber Custom 2 is my most shot 1911. Just a little over 20k rounds and zero frame issues. Its a 45, but enough rounds to tell you the frame is strong enough.

[walmart_ar15]

Thing to note about using the recoil buffer pad, it will shorten the full slide travel and can prevent the slide from unlocking from the slide stop by pulling the slide further back. You'll have to press the slide stop to release the slide. Unless you have a modified slide dust cover. Same if you are using a lip type reverse plug for the bull barrels.

I have not heard of not to go over 20# recoil spring in 1911. If one is worried about battering the barrel lock lugs, the recoil from the firing puts more force on those parts than what 20+# recoil spring will do. Faster slide return speed does put some stress on the slide stop pin and may affect your follow up sight picture. So it is optimal to tune the recoil spring weight the last.

[JTROKS]

Steel frames are not all equal. Cast, machined from billet steel, and machined from forging. Haven’t heard of MIM frames yet.

[walmart_ar15]

Steel frames are not all equal. Cast, machined from billet steel, and machined from forging. Haven?t heard of MIM frames yet.

Even within cast, billet steel and forging have differences.

Difference in casting process will determine the quality of the finished product. Billet steel stock cold or hot rolled and forging, cold or hot forged.

Cast typically are harder as in more difficult to machine and eat mill bits. So for years, smith hate to work on cast and suggests they are inferior (urban legend). Cheap casting process will also trap air bubbles, leaving a potentially ugly machined surface. There are post cast pressure heat tempering that can be used to adjust the metal hardness. Properly casted frames are stronger than other type of frames.

All metal stocks are "casted" from molten liquid initially to its right chemistry. They are then rolled into the shape (forging). Machine billet just take that stock and cut the frame out. The forged frames take the metal stock and beat it into rough shape first before machining.

For large volume production, forging first before machining will save machining time. Casting is even faster but requires expensive molds and casting equipment for good quality.

So, mom and pop shops use billet machined or buy pre-cast frames. Older manufacturer not investing in new equipment tend to stay with forged or buy pre-cast frames. The newer manufacturers with new investment casting process makes cast frames.

Done correctly all three processes will produce quality frames.

[jyo]

The old cast vs forged frame question is a bit complicated---many different issues including; the type and grade of steel, the heat treatment and where it's heat treated (not all slides are completely heat treated---some just at certain stress points) and the same goes for frames... Then there's the idea that some makers (FN) claim that their cast frames for P-35s (Browning Hi Powers) are actually stronger than their older forged frames! Not an easy question to answer, especially when the gun maker may use parts that are supplied by an outside vender and maybe several different venders over the years...
The full-shout 10mm cartridge is a very stout loading, far more robust than the 45 ACP that 1911s were designed for...

[Fatcat]

If it is a steel frame it should be fine.
I would not expect any warranty coverage after all the mods.

I use a 23 lb spring for 10mm, some like more, some less, some use progressive springs.
A 9mm / .38 Super spring will be too soft.

What ojisan said. Plus use a standard main spring (26lb ?) and a flat bottom firing pin stop

[naz]

1911 RIA FRAME

Hello,
I hope all is well. I have an RIA 1911 that was initially chambered in 38 Super. I have a 9mm barrel and an additional slide with a 10mm bull barrel fitted. My question is, how durable is the frame, and how much can it handle 10mm? I hand load to control variables and want to shoot stout loads, but I'm afraid I might crack the frame. I also don't recall my spring weight, but it's heavy spring. Any way to tell? Also, would I be covered under warranty?

Ria makes 10mm 1911 so my $.02 is go for it and shoot the heck out of it.

If you get a vertical crack going from a corner of the slide stop notch to the frame rail , dremel out that part of the rail and keep shooting the heck out of it