Should I get trigger work done on my TRP Operator?

[AFTII]

Do you have any thoughts on having a trigger job done on it?

I'd consider a good cleaning job first. There could be junk gumming up the rails. If that doesn't work then yes, I'd recommend a trigger job.

I really don't know anyone in CA anymore. I had Dave Fink install a threaded bull barrel in my TRP as well as a custom trigger job. I'm very satisfied. He has since become to gunsmith for Gunsite Academy. Kinda far for you, but he does quality work in a reasonable amount of time. www.finksguns.com

[mtenenhaus]

I too prefer a short albeit well defined trigger reset....as such a professional trigger job can help you. Bruce Gray did a few triggers for me and i love the quality of the result....perhaps more importantly is that i have many thousands of rounds through some of these 1911s and they've neither failed me nor deteriorated.

Here's some info that might help you to better understand the approach:
The trigger reset begins after the shot is fired and the trigger is allowed to release in a controlled fashion.

Adjusting over travel can either increase or decrease reset (to a point).

The quality and relationship of the interacting parts plays a huge role in this interaction.....this is where an experienced and competent gunsmith really exhibits their skill effecting precise and careful fitting. Specifically the relationship of the trigger bow, disconnector, sear interfaces and spring.

The disconnector plays a significant role in the reset process.is Stoning the interacting surfaces and break points while ensuring that the large contact surface is flat and smooth to the trigger makes a bid difference...similar attention is made to the sear/disconnector interface.

You can see some of this interaction by removing the grips and the grip safety.

You do have to be careful because if you shorten over travel too much you can get into the situation of bump firing.

[JTROKS]

Your disconnector or trigger might have an issue, maybe dirty, foreign debris, or weak/bad contact leaf spring. If the trigger was fine and you liked it when you first got it I don’t think you need a trigger job, unless you want it smoother and crispy. Try shooting a short burst of penetrating oil down the disconnector hole. If that doesn’t fix it shoot a short burst on the trigger channel. If that doesn’t cure it, try a short burst where the sear/disconnector/trigger leaf spring contact point. If any of the above action cures it, my advise is to have a total disassembly of the frame and clean it.

[Epaphroditus]

FWIW a competent smith is worth whatever they charge.

[Colt]

Are you the first/only owner of the TRP?

[dminor]

The first thing I'd do is a detail strip and make sure there is NO grunge on any of the trigger assembly and make sure everything moves freely (disco). Do the whole enchilada. De-grease everything and flush all nooks n crans.

See if your reset comes back into focus of your digit.

*if I were to have a trigger "done" on a TRP I'd go SA custom shop. Weak springs get replaced FOC. Warranty work.

Thank you for the thoughtful response.

I've done a minor detail strip, but I guess I can go even deeper and see what happens.

I've spoken to SA, they have a trigger job and they've asked me to email them about it. I'm waiting to hear back.

[dminor]

It's a 1911. You may be missing the point.

People aren't spending 2 grand on them to get a jank trigger and just train through it. That's what glocks are for.

Exactly. It bothers me that the reset on my Gen 5 Glock is smoother than my 1911. It's disappointing, actually.

[dminor]

You're missing the point. You don't keep your finger on the trigger after the gun has discharged and ride it forward to reset. That's what he's doing, he's pinning the trigger.

https://youtu.be/YbWfwQyglmA?t=131

I appreciate the video and it was informative. It's interesting to hear that you want to reset earlier.

That said, I don't think this is my issue. The video seemed more about timing. My problem is the feel of the reset. When the forward pressure on the trigger stops, I assume I've hit the reset point and pull for the second shot. Because the reset is clunky, with different pressures pushing forward, that information becomes distorted and once in a while I pull the trigger back before it's hit the reset and the weapon doesn't fire. This is especially true during speed drills. I do not have this issue with the Glock's reset which has uniform pressure all the way forward to the reset.

As you can imagine, that's a problem. You don't know whether your gun is malfunctioning or you pulled the trigger before the reset happens.

[dminor]

OP, you said reliability is your concern and you are an OEM guy.

Send the gun to Springfield ask for a " trigger job ". Describe to them what you described in this thread. Do not let the " gunsmith " work on your gun.

Good luck.

Thank you. That's the path I'm on right now. Hopefully SA can help!

[dminor]

I'd consider a good cleaning job first. There could be junk gumming up the rails. If that doesn't work then yes, I'd recommend a trigger job.

I really don't know anyone in CA anymore. I had Dave Fink install a threaded bull barrel in my TRP as well as a custom trigger job. I'm very satisfied. He has since become to gunsmith for Gunsite Academy. Kinda far for you, but he does quality work in a reasonable amount of time. www.finksguns.com

Thank you. I will keep this in mind.

[dminor]

I too prefer a short albeit well defined trigger reset....as such a professional trigger job can help you. Bruce Gray did a few triggers for me and i love the quality of the result....perhaps more importantly is that i have many thousands of rounds through some of these 1911s and they've neither failed me nor deteriorated.

Here's some info that might help you to better understand the approach:
The trigger reset begins after the shot is fired and the trigger is allowed to release in a controlled fashion.

Adjusting over travel can either increase or decrease reset (to a point).

The quality and relationship of the interacting parts plays a huge role in this interaction.....this is where an experienced and competent gunsmith really exhibits their skill effecting precise and careful fitting. Specifically the relationship of the trigger bow, disconnector, sear interfaces and spring.

The disconnector plays a significant role in the reset process.is Stoning the interacting surfaces and break points while ensuring that the large contact surface is flat and smooth to the trigger makes a bid difference...similar attention is made to the sear/disconnector interface.

You can see some of this interaction by removing the grips and the grip safety.

You do have to be careful because if you shorten over travel too much you can get into the situation of bump firing.

I appreciate all this info. I think for me, I'd rather have a professional open / toy with the interior. I'm trying to reach out to SA for a custom trigger job. Fingers crossed.

[dminor]

I've tried placing oil on those areas to no avail. If anything, it just got messier and had the same problem.

I think a detail strip is in order. That said, I'm not sure I'm the one to do it. I may have the local smith do it.

[dminor]

Are you the first/only owner of the TRP?

Yes

[JTROKS]

I've tried placing oil on those areas to no avail. If anything, it just got messier and had the same problem.

I think a detail strip is in order. That said, I'm not sure I'm the one to do it. I may have the local smith do it.

The oil is to see if it’s just dirt/unburnt powder/fowling build up. Too bad it didn’t work. Definitely a complete tear down and clean is a must. There are many videos available for the complete tear down and reassembly of a 1911. Some folks can do it in the dark and even blindfolded. Doesn’t hurt to learn.

Usually an inspection of the trigger bow raceway and trigger shoe clearance. If not I’d inspect the disconnector, sear, trigger bow for burrs or rough contact. Check tension and contact area of 3-4 leaf spring also.

A trigger job should fix the problem since it’ll clean and polish the parts and areas I mentioned. Check them for proper engagement especially the hammer and sear. The gunsmith will recut them angles, add a relief cut to sear and polish them up.

[-hanko]

Have S'field pin the ejector if they haven't already done that.