Should I get trigger work done on my TRP Operator?

[dminor]

Hi all,

I recently took a trip to Modern Warrior Gunsmith in Culver City. It was a real treat. Shop operator was a nice guy.

I showed him an issue I've been having with my 1911 trigger. I have an issue with the reset. I like triggers where the spring pushes the trigger forward till the reset click. With my TRP Operator, it's as if there are two stages of reset. One of the stages, the spring pushes the trigger forward with some force. Then the force mostly goes away and you have to release your finger a bit further to hit the reset.

The gunsmith showed me a 1911 he worked on. It had the type of reset I liked. The spring pushed forward all the way to the click. If you ask me, adding that type of crisp reset to an already crisp 1911 trigger pull sounds enticing.

My biggest concern is reliability. Typically, I'm an OEM guy. I don't like messing with factory parts.

What do you guys think? Would this concern you in terms of reliability?

[Sheldon]

Maybe trigger stop screw, if ur trigger has one, is out of adjustment?

Quality parts installed correctly should not have a negative effect on reliability.

[L-2]

OP, if I may comment.
The 1911 is a bit more than assemble and leave alone. You're welcome to do that (leave alone), of course. After all, it is yours to do with as you will.

Post 2 mentioned one adjustable item which might affect what you're feeling or want to feel.

Another thing which wouldn't involve actually changing from an OEM part is the sear spring, which will have three spring leaves to it.

There are a few parts in a 1911 which can be adjusted, filed, smoothed, or outright replaced. Even if replacing with another OEM part, there could be slight differences in feel, whether due to various adjustments, but could also be due to filing & fitting of parts.

I understand the TRP models may have gone from some minor fitting in the older days, to not-as-much fitting nowadays, and mostly assembled as with most other Springfield-Armory products, other than SA's "Custom" guns. See:

https://www.springfield-armory.com/1911-series-handguns/custom-handguns/

One indicator on a TRP might be if some of the parts, during a detail strip, show the engraving of a partial serial number on those parts. This would indicate some individual parts were hand-fitted and kept with that specific gun. The parts might include the extractor, firing pin stop, thumb safety, trigger, slide, barrel, and barrel bushing (and other internal parts). I don't know to what extent an older TRP vs. a new TRP is fitted, if any or if there ever was. Maybe someone else on this forum would know for sure.

[dminor]

Maybe trigger stop screw, if ur trigger has one, is out of adjustment?

Quality parts installed correctly should not have a negative effect on reliability.

Hi Sheldon and thanks for your response. I personally have not messed with the stop screw. From what I've been told from two people who have seen the trigger, my 1911 trigger is actually functioning properly. The problem is, the Glock Gen 5 reset has spoiled me and I really would love to have that crisp reset on the 1911. To me, the 1911's pull is already amazing. If paired with an amazing reset, I have my .45 weapon of choice.

[dminor]

OP, if I may comment.
The 1911 is a bit more than assemble and leave alone. You're welcome to do that (leave alone), of course. After all, it is yours to do with as you will.

Post 2 mentioned one adjustable item which might affect what you're feeling or want to feel.

Another thing which wouldn't involve actually changing from an OEM part is the sear spring, which will have three spring leaves to it.

There are a few parts in a 1911 which can be adjusted, filed, smoothed, or outright replaced. Even if replacing with another OEM part, there could be slight differences in feel, whether due to various adjustments, but could also be due to filing & fitting of parts.

I understand the TRP models may have gone from some minor fitting in the older days, to not-as-much fitting nowadays, and mostly assembled as with most other Springfield-Armory products, other than SA's "Custom" guns. See:

https://www.springfield-armory.com/1911-series-handguns/custom-handguns/

One indicator on a TRP might be if some of the parts, during a detail strip, show the engraving of a partial serial number on those parts. This would indicate some individual parts were hand-fitted and kept with that specific gun. The parts might include the extractor, firing pin stop, thumb safety, trigger, slide, barrel, and barrel bushing (and other internal parts). I don't know to what extent an older TRP vs. a new TRP is fitted, if any or if there ever was. Maybe someone else on this forum would know for sure.

Firstly, thank you for all your feedback here.

I haven't adjusted anything on the trigger. I've had the retail store who sold me the pistol and the gunsmith offering to upgrade it comment that the trigger is working fine or "like a 1911." So I assume this is just normal for the gun.

The sear spring is the spring I believe is causing the issue. In other words, I would want more strength when pushing the trigger forward after it is depressed. For whatever reason, the trigger has like X amount of pressure pushing forward to about 2/3 the way to the reset. Once you get there, the X amount of pressure decreases significantly. You have to lift your finger off the trigger just a bit more in order to allow it to come forward the final 1/3 and hear the reset click. This is actually a bit dangerous. It fools you into think you've reached the reset, though you're only 2/3 the way there. I've had a few times on speed drills where I pulled the trigger and nothing happened - it was because I missed the reset. It's almost like I have a two stage reset on the trigger... and I do not like it!

The gunsmith is actually offering a few things. For additional $$$ he offered to polish the bore and fine tune other parts of the gun. Mostly, I'm interested in the trigger.

Do you think it would be a good idea to let him or Springfield do their work on it?

[AFTII]

Firstly, thank you for all your feedback here.

I haven't adjusted anything on the trigger. I've had the retail store who sold me the pistol and the gunsmith offering to upgrade it comment that the trigger is working fine or "like a 1911." So I assume this is just normal for the gun.

The sear spring is the spring I believe is causing the issue. In other words, I would want more strength when pushing the trigger forward after it is depressed. For whatever reason, the trigger has like X amount of pressure pushing forward to about 2/3 the way to the reset. Once you get there, the X amount of pressure decreases significantly. You have to lift your finger off the trigger just a bit more in order to allow it to come forward the final 1/3 and hear the reset click. This is actually a bit dangerous. It fools you into think you've reached the reset, though you're only 2/3 the way there. I've had a few times on speed drills where I pulled the trigger and nothing happened - it was because I missed the reset. It's almost like I have a two stage reset on the trigger... and I do not like it!

The gunsmith is actually offering a few things. For additional $$$ he offered to polish the bore and fine tune other parts of the gun. Mostly, I'm interested in the trigger.

Do you think it would be a good idea to let him or Springfield do their work on it?

You funny guy. Spoiled by the reset on a Glock Gen 5! You funny funny guy.

Seriously, the reset distance on a 1911 should be about 1/8" of travel from the rear stop. The trigger should have positive tension on it throughout its travel. Reset should be tactile and audible. It should be physically impossible for you to short stoke a 1911 trigger - especially if you are used to the long, creepy reset of a Glock trigger be it Gen 5, 4, 3 2 or 1. (What you are describing is this abomination - https://www.smith-wesson.com/product...15&preselect=1 ).

Check out: https://www.pewpewtactical.com/1911-...el-overtravel/ The videos show how a properly adjusted 1911 trigger should work.

Now of the important stuff. I would SERIOUSLY question the qualifications of any gunsmith who found a stagy, creepy, trigger on a 1911, any 1911, "normal." He may have meant that Springfield Armory is producing crap as the norm, but what you describe is definitely not normal for a 1911.

[Scotty]

The sear spring is the spring I believe is causing the issue.

It is the sear spring, but not just the sear spring leg. It's a combination of the sear spring leg and the disconnect spring leg. A well honed sear to hammer interface accounts for 1.5 lbs of the trigger pull. The rest is in the adjustment of the sear and disconnect leg. The standard is to have both legs should be about the same weight. If you are trying to get a 4.5 lbs trigger pull, you would set the disconnect leg to be 24 ounces and the sear leg to 24 ounces. If you remove the hammer from the gun, you should measure 24 ounces on the trigger before it engages the sear. Then it should go up to 48 ounces when the sear is engaged.

[dminor]

You funny guy. Spoiled by the reset on a Glock Gen 5! You funny funny guy.

Seriously, the reset distance on a 1911 should be about 1/8" of travel from the rear stop. The trigger should have positive tension on it throughout its travel. Reset should be tactile and audible. It should be physically impossible for you to short stoke a 1911 trigger - especially if you are used to the long, creepy reset of a Glock trigger be it Gen 5, 4, 3 2 or 1. (What you are describing is this abomination - https://www.smith-wesson.com/product...15&preselect=1 ).

Check out: https://www.pewpewtactical.com/1911-...el-overtravel/ The videos show how a properly adjusted 1911 trigger should work.

Now of the important stuff. I would SERIOUSLY question the qualifications of any gunsmith who found a stagy, creepy, trigger on a 1911, any 1911, "normal." He may have meant that Springfield Armory is producing crap as the norm, but what you describe is definitely not normal for a 1911.

I knew this would get me in some trouble

But yea, I was pleasantly surprised by the uniform forward pressure on the Glock. Say what you will :P

I will have to play with the adjustment. Maybe if I create less overtravel, that may help. The Glock's wall is pretty far back so maybe there's something there.

As for the gunsmith, he said it was normal for a "stock' trigger. I think he was referring particularly to that model.

Do you have any thoughts on having a trigger job done on it?

[mitori]

It sounds like you haven't had any decent handgun training.

Hi all,

I recently took a trip to Modern Warrior Gunsmith in Culver City. It was a real treat. Shop operator was a nice guy.

I showed him an issue I've been having with my 1911 trigger. I have an issue with the reset. I like triggers where the spring pushes the trigger forward till the reset click. With my TRP Operator, it's as if there are two stages of reset. One of the stages, the spring pushes the trigger forward with some force. Then the force mostly goes away and you have to release your finger a bit further to hit the reset.

The gunsmith showed me a 1911 he worked on. It had the type of reset I liked. The spring pushed forward all the way to the click. If you ask me, adding that type of crisp reset to an already crisp 1911 trigger pull sounds enticing.

My biggest concern is reliability. Typically, I'm an OEM guy. I don't like messing with factory parts.

What do you guys think? Would this concern you in terms of reliability?

[dminor]

It sounds like you haven't had any decent handgun training.

Well this was a helpful response!

[FeuerFrei]

The first thing I'd do is a detail strip and make sure there is NO grunge on any of the trigger assembly and make sure everything moves freely (disco). Do the whole enchilada. De-grease everything and flush all nooks n crans.

See if your reset comes back into focus of your digit.

*if I were to have a trigger "done" on a TRP I'd go SA custom shop. Weak springs get replaced FOC. Warranty work.

[mitori]

Well this was a helpful response!

How is it not helpful and confusing? Get some good training. You're concerned with stuff that doesn't even matter.

"You don't get trigger speed by pressing the trigger fast. You get trigger speed by releasing the trigger fast. Most people will hold the trigger to see what they need to do next. You should get off that trigger like it's a hot poker, pocking the tip of the finger." -Yong Lee, 5 division USPSA Grand Master.

Triggers reset themselves, you don't need to help them.

[TomReloaded]

How is it not helpful and confusing? Get some good training. You're concerned with stuff that doesn't even matter.

"You don't get trigger speed by pressing the trigger fast. You get trigger speed by releasing the trigger fast. Most people will hold the trigger to see what they need to do next. You should get off that trigger like it's a hot poker, pocking the tip of the finger." -Yong Lee, 5 division USPSA Grand Master.

Triggers reset themselves, you don't need to help them.

It's a 1911. You may be missing the point.

People aren't spending 2 grand on them to get a jank trigger and just train through it. That's what glocks are for.

[mitori]

It's a 1911. You may be missing the point.

People aren't spending 2 grand on them to get a jank trigger and just train through it. That's what glocks are for.

You're missing the point. You don't keep your finger on the trigger after the gun has discharged and ride it forward to reset. That's what he's doing, he's pinning the trigger.

https://youtu.be/YbWfwQyglmA?t=131

[DArBad]

OP, you said reliability is your concern and you are an OEM guy.

Send the gun to Springfield ask for a " trigger job ". Describe to them what you described in this thread. Do not let the " gunsmith " work on your gun.

Good luck.