Who can weld?

[Harbinger]

I think you have your answer.

If JBweld doesn't work you can always drill it back out and call up JPglee.

Mike

[SemiAutoSam]

Now your making them wear bows and be wrapped up like a xmas present ?

Thats what I call gunsmithng

Yah, I can do it for you, but you gotta be a present.

Would that then be called JP Weld ?

I think you have your answer.

If JBweld doesn't work you can always drill it back out and call up JPglee.

Mike

[laabstract]

JB Weld FTW.

No, seriously. JB Weld can do it, IMO.

You think it will hold up against the heat of the primer?

[tzahoy]

The only way I would consider it is with a TIG welder. Anything else is going to put a lot more heat into it and likely ruin that beautiful case colored finish. MIG is way too imprecise, a gas torch will put a lot more heat into the frame, even MAPP gas and silver solder will put enough heat into it to damage to finish.

With a TIG torch (and a good operator behind the wheel) the hole could be welded up and very little finish work would be needed. Just redrill the hole. I could do it for you but I'm a long way away.

If you want to go ghetto, JB Weld WILL hold up to the heat of a primer. I've used it to plug EGR passages in cylinder heads. Whether you have enough surface area to get a good bond, and whether it will hold up to repeated use is the unknown. Whether you want to "repair" a nice firearm that way is a different story.

[JPglee1]

The only way I would consider it is with a TIG welder. Anything else is going to put a lot more heat into it and likely ruin that beautiful case colored finish. MIG is way too imprecise, a gas torch will put a lot more heat into the frame, even MAPP gas and silver solder will put enough heat into it to damage to finish.

At the risk of sounding like an "*******" How many receivers or anything else have you welded up in your time as a welder?

TIG welding requires you to preheat a larger portion of surrounding metal, before a bead can be formed. This is called the "HAZ" or Heat Affected Zone

Contrary to POPULAR belief a TIG and an Oxy Acetylene torch are very closely related on how they actually make a bead. One uses electricity, the other uses a pair of bottles w/mixed gas to get the heat required.

With a MIG it is more or less "instant on" It relies on an instant short circuit to heat the metal FAST resulting in LESS of a heat affected zone.

IF you're a welder try this experiment:

Get 2 pieces of 1/2" thick x 1" wide steel strap (or something similar)

Now, set up the 2 pieces of steel with about 1" of overlap at the weld joint.

Weld it up with your a TIG welder/ Do continuous bead weld from end to end, however you were taught to do it.

Now do the same with a MIG and a GAS torch.


The MIG will physically run a lot faster, you won't have nearly the heat affected area either. The gas torch will weld, but it will be on par with the TIG, time-wise anyway.


After having done extensive welding work for over 10 years I respectfully care to disagree. I think for 80% of the stuff that needs welded a MIG is the way to go. Fast run, less heat affected zone and easy enough for most people to pick it up and toss good beads the same day they got it.

With a repair as is being described here, it would literally be "on N off" BZZZZ done... take prolly 3 seconds of welding. Thats why I told tehe guy $10.00, it wont be a hard repair if the steel is 1/2 way decent.


Sorry for coming off like an "*******" but Ive had a lot of people tell me that TIGs make less heat than MIGs, and its simply not true.


JP

[megavolt121]

http://www.uberti.com/firearms/Cattleman.tpl

I bought mine on clearance for about 200 bucks
then i spent an other $90 on a .45 Colt cylinder and firing pin.
I just wanted a cheap yet nice .45 SA

The bigger question, where did you get that for $200?

[Hanniballs]

http://www.uberti.com/firearms/Cattleman.tpl

I bought mine on clearance for about 200 bucks
then i spent an other $90 on a .45 Colt cylinder and firing pin.
I just wanted a cheap yet nice .45 SA

Where did you buy the extra parts needed? I have a .45 BP pistol also and i'd like to switch it.

[laabstract]

Where did you buy the extra parts needed? I have a .45 BP pistol also and i'd like to switch it.

There is a guy that comes to the costa mesa gun show.
He as a company called Rocky Mountain Indian Trading Post.

I got all the parts from him.

The reason i got the gun so cheap as because uberti discountined most of its BP line. They used to make BP versions then cartridge versions of each gun they have since stoped and I happened to get lucky and got one of the last ones they had in stock.

[CALI-gula]

At the risk of sounding like an "a--hole" How many receivers or anything else have you welded up in your time as a welder?

TIG welding requires you to preheat a larger portion of surrounding metal, before a bead can be formed. This is called the "HAZ" or Heat Affected Zone

Contrary to POPULAR belief a TIG and an Oxy Acetylene torch are very closely related on how they actually make a bead. One uses electricity, the other uses a pair of bottles w/mixed gas to get the heat required.

With a MIG it is more or less "instant on" It relies on an instant short circuit to heat the metal FAST resulting in LESS of a heat affected zone. JP

I can attest to this and then some. I keep a small Lincoln home MIG welder always on the ready, with solder-core wire for easy fixings, one to the 115V jobbers for small projects around the house, that don't require a super strong repair.

One day, I broke my prescription sunglasses, which I really liked, and just did not have the time to make an appoint to get them replaced. Turns out, the middle nose-bridge was steel but the rims and frames were titanium. How they bonded them, I have no idea, but they broke at the middle bridge of wire (the center nose piece) which must be only a few millimeters thick.

Anyway, I took out the lenses and removed the bottom portion of the frames, and tacked down the broken portions with roofing nails to a piece of wood like a jig, until the middle bridge was assembled at the break as should be. I then connected the ground to the right eye circle, and merely touched the end of the wire to the broken spot. I set it on low heat, and low output. I figured they were already broke and if I broke them even more, no loss, I would just have to get new glasses (they are 6 years old).

Now normally, such fine and thin metal would have melted or the current followed the metal back and literally disintegrated it. But nope!!

I just touched it quickly, a flash, and it melded the two portions together perfectly. There was a slight thicker effect, so I got out a fine file and shaped the bridge to match the thickness of each side. I then used some lacquer based clear-color nail-polish my wife had that matched the surrounding anodized-like bronze-color coating exactly, touched it up, and you would never know they were repaired, not even with a magnifying glass - it was that good!!

I did that repair last April, and they are still as good as new to this day!!

MIG works great if you have an artistic touch and a careful approach.

[LAK Supply]

Both parties here have their good points about the different types of welding that can be performed. MIG will keep a smaller HAZ than TIG if the operator is not a proficient TIG welder. However, wire tends to lack penetration (especially inside holes) and will perform a weaker, more porous weld. I would personally use a TIG with a 2% Thoriated 1/16" tungsten and the same diameter filler rod in 70S-2.

Either process will work if the right person is performing the task; it's not so complicated that it really matters.

[tzahoy]

I don't mind defending my welding experience, after all there I've got about 19 years of fabrication experience to back me up. I've fabricated racecars, headers, exhaust systems, bicycles, trailers, and innumerable manufacturing jigs and fixtures. I've also repaired and fabricated things much smaller and more precise than a revolver firing pin hole. I'm now a mechanical engineer by trade with as many years experience as a machinist. I learned to weld in the service of a dairy and food systems process welder and also a pipeline welder who worked in Alaska.

I'm always one to advocate the proper tool for the job, MIG welders are for fast fabrication of heavier structural components. In this application they put less heat into weldments due to their speed. Stick welders are excellent in this regard as well, with the right guy behind the machine. MIG welders are NOT good at doing short blasts like you describe. You cannot get enough heat for adequate penetration and fusion of the base metal with the filler. You end up with a berry sitting on top of your part. You can usually pop this berry right off with a chisel and a hammer.

All this aside, I would never touch a firearm with a MIG. Of course I have a TIG in my basement, and it's the right tool for the job. It allows you to place a precise amount of heat exactly where you want. Good luck aiming your MIG gun at a firing pin hole and hitting the target, especially nestled in the hammer groove of a revolver frame or from the cylinder side. Oh, and hopefully the splatter from that weld doesn't land on the frame and stick some extra berries in unwanted places. The repair with the TIG would take about 3 seconds and the frame would be cool to the touch half an inch away from the repair. No damage to the finish, and no grinding afterwards.


JP said: With a MIG it is more or less "instant on" It relies on an instant short circuit to heat the metal FAST resulting in LESS of a heat affected zone. JP

A TIG is no different. It is instant on as well. It heats the metal with an arc just like MIG, the amount of heat is proportional to the current you push through the part. You can heat just as fast with TIG as you can with MIG. The problem with MIG for small repairs like this is the filler starts to feed into the part the instant you pull the trigger, the base metal doesn't have a chance to get hot enough to fuse and you have a repair that's going to fail.



JP said: IF you're a welder try this experiment:

Get 2 pieces of 1/2" thick x 1" wide steel strap (or something similar)

Now, set up the 2 pieces of steel with about 1" of overlap at the weld joint.

Weld it up with your a TIG welder/ Do continuous bead weld from end to end, however you were taught to do it.

Now do the same with a MIG and a GAS torch.

The MIG will physically run a lot faster, you won't have nearly the heat affected area either. The gas torch will weld, but it will be on par with the TIG, time-wise anyway.


I would never weld a sample like this with TIG, it is not the right tool for the job, nor does it compare to the type of repair we were discussing.


JP, you didn't come off as an *******, but you do come off as ill informed.

[LAK Supply]

I agree tzahoy. As long as the operator is proficient with a tungsten, the TIG would be preferrable (as I expressed as my personal choice in the prior post). I wouldn't be scared to try; I've done some of the things you have (although I only have about 12 years under my belt ) After walking a cup on sanitary or sticking 18 ga aluminum together, a small hole in anything doesn't even require a second thought.
I would worry, however, about letting someone who is not an adequate TIG welder screw with this part. If the operator doesn't know what they are doing, a small hole can turn into a bigger gouge, or into a bunch of little holes if the material wasn't prepped right.
I would recommend finding someone who can use a TIG and have it done right. If you can't, the MIG will work; it will just not be the preferrable process.
BTW, where are you located? If you are close to me I will take care of it for you.

[laabstract]

I agree tzahoy. As long as the operator is proficient with a tungsten, the TIG would be preferrable (as I expressed as my personal choice in the prior post). I wouldn't be scared to try; I've done some of the things you have (although I only have about 12 years under my belt ) After walking a cup on sanitary or sticking 18 ga aluminum together, a small hole in anything doesn't even require a second thought.
I would worry, however, about letting someone who is not an adequate TIG welder screw with this part. If the operator doesn't know what they are doing, a small hole can turn into a bigger gouge, or into a bunch of little holes if the material wasn't prepped right.
I would recommend finding someone who can use a TIG and have it done right. If you can't, the MIG will work; it will just not be the preferrable process.
BTW, where are you located? If you are close to me I will take care of it for you.

Im in pasadena.

[LAK Supply]

Oh, I guess I could have read that in the first post! If you were closer to Modesto I would be able to help you, but Pasadena is a bit far to weld a hole!
I'm sure there is someone in your area that could take care of it for you. Just make sure they cover the area around the hole if they use a MIG on it. . . you don't want berries hangin' out on your piece. TIG is still preferable if you can arrange it.
Whatever you do, DON'T JB weld or silver solder it!!!!! These types of fixes may hold up well for a while, but they are not what you want in an area where you will be directing heat and pressure. I think you will have both of these forces in the area you are trying to fix.
It would be a shame to half-*** a little thing like that after you've done the work you have on this gun. It looks great, BTW!!

[JPglee1]

JP, you didn't come off as an *******, but you do come off as ill informed.

Thanks

I'd have this guy fix your frame hole... My lowly MIG with custom tips and .010" wire isn't up to the task, and I don't use my TIG much unless its Ti or Mag so I think I'll pass.

I'm sure he can do a lot better job, so I'd mail it up to him to do it.


JP