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1911 Guide Rods
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Why do you want a takedown hole on your guide rod? Why do you want to remove the guide rod and recoil spring as one unit?i guess i should clarify...the full length guide rod i prefer has a little hole drilled through it that one inserts a paper clip in to remove the spring and guide as a single unit.....(not the hex key / 2 piece type of guide rod).
They're somewhat common on competition 1911 pistols, especially compensated ones.
here's one example: https://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...prod41670.aspx
Anchors Aweigh
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I'm not a fan of the paper clip method and bought a 1911 Ultra Tool that is much easier.i guess i should clarify...the full length guide rod i prefer has a little hole drilled through it that one inserts a paper clip in to remove the spring and guide as a single unit.....(not the hex key / 2 piece type of guide rod).
They're somewhat common on competition 1911 pistols, especially compensated ones.
here's one example: https://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...prod41670.aspx




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i guess i'm so used to it and prefer it.....it's so easy and quick to remove the slide stop, pull back on the slide, put the paper clip in, slide off the whole slide and slip out the recoil spring/guide rod unit.
don't have to worry about screwing a hex key or the two piece coming apart while shooting.
don't have to wrap my hand around the slide trying to capture the bunched up recoil spring.
they all work, the standard method, the ultra tool, the dawson tool-less guide rod....you learn to deal with each method...but this is the one i tend to prefer, cheap, easy, fast, works.Last edited by mtenenhaus; 07-23-2020, 6:56 AM.Comment
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I run a Dawson Precision tool less guide rod in most of my 1911s. I started using these after I purchased my first Les Baer.
Everything on that gun was tight. Turning the barrel bushing to take decompress the recoil spring was a Herculean task. The Dawson guide rod eliminated that problem.
The Dawson rod does not require tools (dah) and does not come apart while shooting. To disassemble the gun, you lock the slide to the rear, push the button on the rod and release the slide. The rod bushing locks to the button on the rod assembly. That takes the spring pressure off the slide. You then remove the slide lock and slide the entire slide assembly off the frame. Easy peasy.
Reassemble in reverse order. Racking the slide deactivates the button's lock on the rod's bushing and restores spring tension to the slide.
I've had a bunch of these guide rods and never had a failure. My original LB Thunder Ranch has over 11,000 rounds through it without an issue. It really makes taking down a 1911 a breeze.Comment
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This is hard to argue with. You like it, you use it. Who cares what others think.
That said, I like the look of a regular GI size guiderod, for no specific reason. Not because "That's the way Browning designed it" (he designed it without a BTGS, seven round magazines, no magwell, and crap sights too, and I'm glad those were upgraded in most available guns these days).
Not because it's better (there is no functional difference between the two other than disassembly).
Just cause I like the look.Comment
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and before that, and before that that, and before that that that .....

OP, it a personal reference, just buy one long recoil rod, install it, shoot it then you will find out the answer for yourself.
(BTW, I got my long recoil rod on sale, cheap)Comment
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sigpicOriginally posted by dunndealStop digging.iTraderOriginally posted by BrassCaseI only buy fireworks from Three Finger Willie over at One Eyed Jack's Fireworks.
https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/....php?t=1884858Comment
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This guy gets it.If you shoot then the full length guide rod will prob come loose at some point so keep that Allen wrench close by to tighten it back up. I run a full length guide rod only because it looks cooler when the slide is locked back. And if you know anything about guns then you know looking cool is the most important part.
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