CZ75 SP-01 Stiff Trigger

[gwanghoops]

My SP01's trigger has never gotten better and is worse than a recent stock PCR.
I keep it stock because it's more fun.

[aklon]

While the trigger got less stiff over time, it was more that I got used to it than anything else.

Those targets were shot at 12.5 yards at the Davis Street range.

[broadside]

If you are going to do the firing pin and spring, get the 13# hammer spring as well and an 11# recoil spring (but beware that full power loads can beat on the gun)

[ksch123]

Update: I took it out for the first trip to the range (Angeles Shooting Ranges) to put about 200 rounds through it. I’m not a great shot by any means, but I found this gun to be incredibly accurate without any modification. I also found that the mechanics really loosened up after the first 100 shots or so. Really a fantastic gun and I’ll give it some time before I decide to modify it at all.

[jyc]

The SP-01 really is a great pistol even in stock form. But I can almost guarantee that cajunizing it will blow you away.

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[DJD100]

My SP-01 has lighter springs, and a decent SA/DA trigger with FPB etc, though it definitely smoothed out somewhere north of 500 rds.

I run it lubed and it's a dream to shoot with a relatively light manual of arms. I've had one miss-fire in about 3000 rds, a hard primer on a reload which fired on the second trigger pull.

Considering CGW's RRK kit (Reach Reduction Kit), anyone have any opinions on that (it supposedly moves the DA trigger back 5mm or so, and doesn't effect the SA pull)?

IMO, hammer and recoil springs to start, plus 500 rds or so and then see where it's at.

[Wheeler73]

SP-01

I've had my CA CZ SP-01 for about two years now. In my opinion it's probably the best semi-auto for the money on the CA approved list. I actually shoot better with the CZ than with guns that cost twice as much. I went through a number of semi-auto's (Beretta, Sig, Springfield, M&P, etc.) before settling on the CZ. Mine is all stock except for the Hogue grips. The CZ has very tight tolerances out of the box, but it has loosened up a wee bit after a couple thousand rounds. The trigger isn't great, but either it got better or I got used to it over time. Maybe a little bit of both. Enjoy it and welcome to the CZ club.

cz3.jpg

[Den60]

Yup, I high recommend to pony up the money the first time to get it done right. The pro package comes with an extended firing pin for that very reason. You can save $200 installing the kit yourself. It wasn't too difficult and CGW is more than glad to help you along the way.

A few recommendations:
1) buy extra lifter springs for the firing block lifter
2) buy the starter punch
3) buy a spare hammer strut and ask CGW to install the hammer pins for you

That completed hammer will save you half of the heartache from the start and makes the rest of the project straightforward.

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I had my P01 "Cajunized." Haven't sent the SP-01 in yet. They do good work.

[Wheeler73]

Cajun Gun Works charges $463 + $40 S&H to do the in-house pro-package upgrade. That's almost the cost of a new CZ. Ridiculous.

[Rorge Retson]

Cajun Gun Works charges $463 + $40 S&H to do the in-house pro-package upgrade. That's almost the cost of a new CZ. Ridiculous.

No one said you had to do it.

Add a $500 Pro Package to the $650 for an SP-01 and you have ~$1150 invested. At this point you have the performance of an STI or Tanfoglio, both of which start at $2K and go north of $5K. If you want to 'sport shoot' or compete. I know people who compete exactly like this.

Many people who purchase SP-01s do so for self-defense/home-defense, and leave the trigger as is. Why? Because you can't accidentally pull a stock SP-01 double-action trigger, and they are worried about that. I tell those people to not have any work done on the pistol, but shoot (practice with) it a lot.

It all depends on what your purpose is.

[Den60]

Cajun Gun Works charges $463 + $40 S&H to do the in-house pro-package upgrade. That's almost the cost of a new CZ. Ridiculous.

I guess that is why it is called an "upgrade." Most of the cost is in parts, by the way. The labor isn't all that bad at all should you send it to them. You can keep it stock and the CZ is still a good pistol. No one is putting a gun to your head to make you upgrade it.

[jyc]

I guess that is why it is called an "upgrade." Most of the cost is in parts, by the way. The labor isn't all that bad at all should you send it to them. You can keep it stock and the CZ is still a good pistol. No one is putting a gun to your head to make you upgrade it.

I'll even add that you can install the parts yourself if you want to save $200. If this is for a carry gun, I'd send it to CGW; otherwise, you'll get the most bang per buck polishing and installing the components yourself. It's not that hard to do and you'll learn the strong/weak points of the design.

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[Den60]

I'll even add that you can install the parts yourself if you want to save $200. If this is for a carry gun, I'd send it to CGW; otherwise, you'll get the most bang per buck polishing and installing the components yourself. It's not that hard to do and you'll learn the strong/weak points of the design.

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I don't recall it even being that much of difference in the cost between the parts and labor/shipping. But I do recall that when I looked at what would be involved given my older eyes and less than the most dextrous fingers I decided sending it in was the better choice. I have done work on Glocks but this just seemed to be above my skillset.

[jyc]

I don't recall it even being that much of difference in the cost between the parts and labor/shipping. But I do recall that when I looked at what would be involved given my older eyes and less than the most dextrous fingers I decided sending it in was the better choice. I have done work on Glocks but this just seemed to be above my skillset.

At $313, it was enough of a discount to DIY for a range gun. CZ's are definitely not glocks, but you can work on them if you know how to change the brakes and rotors on your car. As I posted above, the hardest parts are installing the hammer pins and reassembling the sear cage. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward.

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[broadside]

I self-installed the CGW Pro-Package and race hammer in about 4 hours and that was a lot of work with 1000 grit and oil to polish everything.

The hardest part was the hammer pins for sure. And don't forget to stake the screw for the trigger bar spring and mag release.

But before you stake that, look up the mag release spring hack to limit the button's travel for better mag drops (or upgrade to the extended release instead)