CZ 75 Trigger Spring Kit from MCARBO

[cz-is-my-choice]

I have replaced the springs using MCARBO kits in 7 CZ's. (RAMI 9), CZ75, CZ75 40 Cal, CZ 75 Compact (2), CZ SP01 (2). The only suggestion I have for you is to use a punch and needle nose pliers to hold and re-align and install the trigger spring rather than the "tool" which comes in the package. The small plastic piece is flimsy and takes a lot longer when using this to install.

[ShadowX]

DO NOT INSTALL THE APEX KIT on a CZ 75 Compact P01.

The disconnector pin came out of my hammer again today. It is extremely unsafe and leaves the gun completely inoperable. The hammer is stuck half way open and would not close or open. The slide will not move back either. It has happened a couple of times and I think the design is extremely unsafe at this point. I will need to put in the original pins back and stake it in place. The pins they provide are way too loose.

I REPEAT, DO NOT INSTALL THE CZ 75 APEX KIT!

Update: I have been in contact with the Apex customer support and they let me know the design was changed to pins that need to be staked in place. I received a kit with the solid pins and will need to get replacement parts. Once I get the part, I will update the post or delete it. For now, if you get an apex kit and the disconnector pins are solid, you need to get the updated pin design that allows you to stake the pins in place during the install. If not, they would come loose and cause problems.

[ShadowX]

I just got my MCARBO kit today. I will swap out one of my other stock sets later in the week. Will let you know how it turns out.

[tanglediver]

I have done my 97B, 75B and 75B compact now, all safety lever models, using the M-Carbo kits. Each one had it's own quirks. Notably, the 97's firing pin block would not drop out because it had a burr in the cavity. I scraped it out with the tip of a utility blade. The 75B went the smoothest for me, but the compact gave me fits when the hammer spring plunger snapped out and hit the ceiling then landed unseen in a box of (paper) magazines. That was followed by me dropping the safety lever detent and spring on the floor at my feet when I was looking for the plunger. Rookie mistake! All parts located, they went together just fine again. It was the night sights I tried to install on the compact that went all pear shaped after the spring kit. I need a new front sight pin... and I sanded the rear sight a wee bit much.... learning patience is .... tough.

[UnkleReign]

I finally installed it and am very pleased with the results as far as Dry Firing it. Haven't tried live ammo yet. I started on it yesterday evening and took a couple hours off work this morning to finish it. The firing pin block lever spring jumped out on me and spent 3-4 hours looking for it. I was about to give up and just order one but by some miracle found it after sweeping the floor by hand after the 20th time. I spent another 2 hours trying to put it back in

Thanks everyone for helping out and little tid bits of tips helped. I had to look at a few different resources as well since 75D PCR was a little different, some pins needed to be removed from the opposite direction. I'll make an additional post with specifics to the 75D PCR. It seemed easier to work with compared to the ambidextrous version of the decocker, a couple less steps required.

Pretty excited I finished it so had to make a quick post I'll update this post after work tonight with results and small notes I made.

Update from earlier:

Trigger pull readings:
Original: DA 9lb-10lb : SA 2.5-4lb
Modified: DA 6-6.5lb : SA 1.5-2lb (Modified version has a lot more consistent readings, maybe from it being lighter?)

Both DA and SA improved. My is wrist thanking me while dry firing DA repeatedly now. SA feels really good too.

Reset feels foreign almost and need to retrain the feel for it. I'm assuming its from my finger being used to the factory version. During a DA trigger pull its easier to tell where the pressure wall is now as well.

CZ 75D PCR Notes:
Removing the trigger pin was left to right, most videos with others CZs had it right to left
MCARBO Magazine spring felt like it was almost a little long for the compact version of a CZ but I was still able to fit with some force compared to the original spring.
Dont forget to put back the sear cage pin retaining washer back in during assembly. (Ambidextrous versions dont have this)

Lessons learned:
Have spare firing pin block lever springs on hand. The firing pin block lever spring is super small and easy to lose sight of while working on the sear as you're adjusting things and it has a tendency to jump out without you even realizing it. (happened 3 times)
If pins aren't moving from side to side any longer, take it slow and readjust instead of putting more pressure.
Make sure to use alloy friendly tools around places that can slide and scratch the frame. I ended up using a screwdriver for a one off scenario instead of a punch to apply pressure and caused a little ding.
Take your time (like others mentioned)

One thing that helped a lot was taking video of the movement in the factory assembled version of the trigger spring and sear cage/hammer area. I was able to compare updated parts during and after assembly with the factory version.

Thanks again everyone that helped with resources and tips. It felt like a big accomplishment for me since I was dreading working on the decocker sear cage and it being my first time. Much appreciated!

[UnkleReign]

Another thing, while everything is apart, polish the parts. I spent a couple of hours polishing all the parts until its nice and smooth. I put my stock springs back on the CZ75B and it was a very crisp 4.5lb trigger with stock springs and just polishing. I took the sear apart and polished the surfaces. I also made some "minor" adjustments to the hammer sear surfaces to improve it. The trigger is so crisp that I am not sure that I even want to put the MCARBO kit and screw up the trigger pull. Most of the time, I shoot SA mode only on that pistol.

I polished most the parts components I dissembled. Did you drop any oil as well on the new springs? I felt like the parts were brand new and didn't require fresh oil as of yet since the gun only had 700-800 rounds through it and cleaned often, didn't want to overdo it.

I have replaced the springs using MCARBO kits in 7 CZ's. (RAMI 9), CZ75, CZ75 40 Cal, CZ 75 Compact (2), CZ SP01 (2). The only suggestion I have for you is to use a punch and needle nose pliers to hold and re-align and install the trigger spring rather than the "tool" which comes in the package. The small plastic piece is flimsy and takes a lot longer when using this to install.

Thanks, I noticed that. Luckily, I ordered a new floating trigger pin from MCARBO and made that part fairly simple once I figured out the correct side to remove the original pin from. The needle nose pliers worked well for the spring.

[the_t0ny]

Has anyone noticed that after they installed the mcarbo kit into their cz75bd the reset almost seems slow/sluggish?

[Tok36]

Has anyone noticed that after they installed the mcarbo kit into their cz75bd the reset almost seems slow/sluggish?

From what i have seen, this is most likely to be the reduced power Trigger Return Spring. Some folks prefer the factory weight TRS due to how it applies more force while you let the trigger out. I have seen allot of folks choose to switch back the the factory weight TRS. It equates to approximately 1/2 a pound pull weight for the Double Action.

Part friction can also play a part. If the trigger is rubbing in the trigger frame hole, it can add to the sluggish feeling. Other part friction can also play into the equation.

The Trigger Bar Spring setting can play its part as well. This spring is directly involved in the reset as it applys upward force on the trigger bar during the rest for both SA and DA.