CZ 75 Trigger Spring Kit from MCARBO

[UnkleReign]

Anyone have experience with the following trigger spring kit from MCARBO and recommend it? They claim "Reduce your CZ 75 Trigger Pull by 50%" and video shows promising results and only costs around $30 (was $20 a few days ago): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyBMk3-LWuE

I want to do this for my 75D PCR since I love the gun but DA action trigger pull is a bit heavy.

I know CJW also offers various kits but this seems to be more my budget. Just wanted to see if anyone has first hand experience. This will be my first time installing a custom spring/trigger.

Link to site: https://www.mcarbo.com/cz-75-trigger-spring-kit.aspx

Adding additional info below in case others have similar questions.
Review after installing on a 75D PCR M-Carbo: Excellent Spring kit for a CZ
Comparison with other kits: CZ Spring Kits: CGW, M-CARBO, Apex

[Dbec1]

Following cause I'm considering the same for my 75bd.

[midvalleyshooter]

You could just try a lighter hammer spring:

https://cajungunworks.com/product/hs-13-blue-13-hammer-spring/

If you really want to get into the CZ internals there is Professor Atlas's Tuning 101:

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/191773-cz-tuning-101-with-professor-atlas/

[AlienHobo]

With the exception of the sear spring, those are all the springs I changed out on all my CZs. I use Cajun Gun Works and have not tried the set in the OP. For $20, it's worth it to find out, so I'll watch this thread.

I will say, however, that if you have never taken apart and reassembled the sear cage on a decocker model CZ, it's not fun.

Watch this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=GWoKoK1r3BM&feature=emb_logo

ETA: for a "slave pin" I cut a piece of a Q-Tip stick to the width of the sear and use that.

[UnkleReign]

You could just try a lighter hammer spring:

https://cajungunworks.com/product/hs-13-blue-13-hammer-spring/

If you really want to get into the CZ internals there is Professor Atlas's Tuning 101:

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/1...ofessor-atlas/

That does seem much simpler. I'll keep it in mind.

Thats a great resource, will spend tomorrow morning with coffee going through it.

[UnkleReign]

With the exception of the sear spring, those are all the springs I changed out on all my CZs. I use Cajun Gun Works and have not tried the set in the OP. For $20, it's worth it to find out, so I'll watch this thread.

I will say, however, that if you have never taken apart and reassembled the sear cage on a decocker model CZ, it's not fun.

Watch this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=GWoKoK1r3BM&feature=emb_logo

ETA: for a "slave pin" I cut a piece of a Q-Tip stick to the width of the sear and use that.

Yeah I keep reading that about decocker models. There is a first time for everything I guess.

I haven't heard any negatives so far about installing this spring kit. Maybe because its fairly recent compared to the options from CJW. Think I'll pull the trigger and go for it. As long as I don't completely break the handgun $20 is a small investment for the improvement.

Thanks for the tip.

[shadowsweeper]

You may want to check out some of my playlists as I have plenty of DIY for CZs.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSo4k-uw2NEsXoMmf-ggseGIWSKiST0AW

[UnkleReign]

Nice, you cover a lot of parts specifically that I'll be touching on the same gun and for the Px4 storm, which I'll be optimizing for my Dad later. Subscribed as well. Thanks.

[shadowsweeper]

Nice, you cover a lot of parts specifically that I'll be touching on the same gun and for the Px4 storm, which I'll be optimizing for my Dad later. Subscribed as well. Thanks.

Awesome. I customize all my pistols as there's always something that can be improved on stock pistols.

[newbie1234]

Did on 75B full size: Convert to SAO + flat trigger + Carbo Spring kits. I got 3.5# to 3.75# trigger weight. My CZ 75B is old about 5K rds so everything is smooth

When did the mod. on 75BD PCR , one of the part is flew away MIA , still waiting for the part coming (Numrich closed), so I cannot tell you.
Numrich part : 630700 - Decocking Washer Insert, only 2 buck but lot of headache. The 75B full size does not have this part but the 75BD PCR has this extra part at the end of the sears box.

[UnkleReign]

Yeah found this video sharing similar sentiments https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSa0ah7EoSg. Just glad people have gone through the pain before I did, at least I have some reference material haha.

[ShadowX]

Did on 75B full size: Convert to SAO + flat trigger + Carbo Spring kits. I got 3.5# to 3.75# trigger weight. My CZ 75B is old about 5K rds so everything is smooth

When did the mod. on 75BD PCR , one of the part is flew away MIA , still waiting for the part coming (Numrich closed), so I cannot tell you.
Numrich part : 630700 - Decocking Washer Insert, only 2 buck but lot of headache. The 75B full size does not have this part but the 75BD PCR has this extra part at the end of the sears box.

You think that washer is a pain, wait till you lose that little tiny spring, the infamous L-spring Lifter Spring. Its more likely to be damaged if you are not aware of the spring in that spot. I ended up making my own and it was a much better spring than the factory spring.

[ShadowX]

Anyone have experience with the following trigger spring kit from MCARBO and recommend it? They claim "Reduce your CZ 75 Trigger Pull by 50%" and video shows promising results and only costs around $30 (was $20 a few days ago): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyBMk3-LWuE

I want to do this for my 75D PCR since I love the gun but DA action trigger pull is a bit heavy.

I know CJW also offers various kits but this seems to be more my budget. Just wanted to see if anyone has first hand experience. This will be my first time installing a custom spring/trigger.

Link to site: https://www.mcarbo.com/cz-75-trigger-spring-kit.aspx

Adding additional info below in case others have similar questions.
Review after installing on a 75D PCR M-Carbo: Excellent Spring kit for a CZ
Comparison with other kits: CZ Spring Kits: CGW, M-CARBO, Apex

Did you update to the MCARBO kit yet? I wanted to know your opinion on the SA trigger pull. Is it too light?

I just updated my P01 to the Apex kit and love it. The 2.5 to 3 lb for SA on the MCARBO kit seems way too light for my taste. I just did a trigger job and polished all the internal components on my CZ 75B and the trigger is very clean and crisp. There is a slight additional travel after the pressure wall, but I don't want to mess with the hammer sear surfaces too much. I took it down by at least .010 to reduce the travel and it seems to help.

I spent a good amount of time on the decocker version of the CZ 75 yesterday and got to know all the little nits on the design. When I did the standard safety version of the CZ 75 today, it was a piece of cake. I took the sear apart just for the fun of it. The decocker sear still gives me nightmares.


The MCARBO video instruction for the decocker verison sucks when it comes to details on the sear. This guy's video is a lot clearer and he has good tricks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmGxiGne3Ek&feature=emb_logo

[UnkleReign]

Did you update to the MCARBO kit yet? I wanted to know your opinion on the SA trigger pull. Is it too light?

Not yet. It arrived last week. Been busy with work and I am waiting for a good day to sit and comfortably change it, especially with all the horror stories on the decocker model. I'll need to take my sweet time working on it.

I've been hearing good things about the Apex kit. Long term goal is to have all 3 like this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4dWMIAi0rY. Next CZ I get is a SP01, so will probably look toward the Apex kit when the time comes.

The MCARBO video instruction for the decocker verison sucks when it comes to details on the sear. This guy's video is a lot clearer and he has good tricks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmGx...ature=emb_logo

Yeah I noticed the sear part seems a bit simplified but its intended to cover just enough to swap spring that comes with the kit. Thanks for the video, It'll come in handy when SHTF but will also watch it a couple times prior to doing the change. Kind of wish I had a non decocker CZ model to get started with though.

I'll probably do the install by next weekend and will update here.

[ShadowX]

Not yet. It arrived last week. Been busy with work and I am waiting for a good day to sit and comfortably change it, especially with all the horror stories on the decocker model. I'll need to take my sweet time working on it.

I've been hearing good things about the Apex kit. Long term goal is to have all 3 like this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4dWMIAi0rY. Next CZ I get is a SP01, so will probably look toward the Apex kit when the time comes.



Yeah I noticed the sear part seems a bit simplified but its intended to cover just enough to swap spring that comes with the kit. Thanks for the video, It'll come in handy when SHTF but will also watch it a couple times prior to doing the change. Kind of wish I had a non decocker CZ model to get started with though.

I'll probably do the install by next weekend and will update here.

Just be very careful when you take the decocker sear apart. Its best to have the slave pin come in from the side where the tiny spring is located. If you come in the opposite end, it tends to get hung up and that is when people lose that spring. Don't hammer in the slave pin. Most of the time, its slightly misaligned, so you can move the sear until it goes in with just a punch by hand. If it doesn't go in and the end is near that small spring, you can either take spring out first so you don't lose it or push spring in until it clears the slave pin. Its definitely worth looking at the video a few times. There are details that you can miss because he was able to press in the pin without issue. In my case, I got hung up near the spring and ended up losing it. People have been known to destroy that spring when they hammer because the pin shears right off. Study that decocker very closely before you take it apart. There are two metal parts on either side, a sear in the middle, two springs in the middle and the tiny spring hidden between the metal part on one side and the wall of the sear. Its very easy to miss it.

You do have to be very careful when you install the sear into the slide during the re-installation with the Apex kit. Make sure the hammer spring is the LAST spring you put in. If not, you have to fight against it when you install the sear. Second, make sure that you press the actual pin in without hammering. The pins on the hammer for the disconnector is very loose and tends to come out if you hammer the pin. When it comes out, you have to disassemble the whole thing and do it again. Trust me, its very frustrating. The hammer pins on the stock are staked into place so its not loose. The Apex pins can slide in with no force at all. In hindsight, I would tried to stake the pins in place just to keep it from sliding around. I must have installed that sear at least 3-4 times until I can get it in without the disconnector pin come out. It was very frustrating.

If you ever do lose that small spring, you can just use the spring from a ball point pen and make your own. Take that spring, straighten out the wire. Put it over the pin or screwdriver with similar diameter and bend the wire around it. Clip the ends off with a bit sticking out. You can trim it off later if needed. The longer spring makes it easier to verify its inside that little V groove detent. The home made spring is actually beefier than the stock springs. I'm sure it would last a lifetime given that its not under a huge spring load.

You don't want to do the standard safety sear first. You should do the decocker version first. Once you are good with the decocker version, the standard version is an easy job. When I took the standard safety sear apart, I was laughing because the whole sear assembly came out. Putting in the decocker sear in and dealing with installing the pin on the decocker can be a nightmare. You have to line up the whole thing to slide that pin in place. The key is to take it easy and not to force it. Don't use the hammer unless you need to. If something feels like its stuck, move the sear assembly slightly until the pin lines up. If you push the end of the pin against a table while you line things up, it makes it easier to install. If you notice the pin is stuck at some point, slow down and use a magnifying glass to verify that its not pushing against that dang little spring again. The pin tends to push fine until it gets to that little spring. The key way to fit it is with a magnifying glass, and a small pair of tweezers to push that spring so it lines up and then push the pin in the rest of the way. Imagine doing that four times because of that damn pin on the hammer disconnector bar. That was not fun.

Another thing, while everything is apart, polish the parts. I spent a couple of hours polishing all the parts until its nice and smooth. I put my stock springs back on the CZ75B and it was a very crisp 4.5lb trigger with stock springs and just polishing. I took the sear apart and polished the surfaces. I also made some "minor" adjustments to the hammer sear surfaces to improve it. The trigger is so crisp that I am not sure that I even want to put the MCARBO kit and screw up the trigger pull. Most of the time, I shoot SA mode only on that pistol.

If you have questions during your install, let me know.