Light strikes and spring kits.

[MCM]

You realize 99.99% are fine as shipped from the factory.
Folks improving things at home often results in "reliability issues".
Like the OP. In the case of a run of TRR8's about 6 yrs ago.
They were designed to use 1/2 moon clips. And without would
have occasional light strikes in DA. S&W fixed the issue 100%.
It was not a common problem at all. Few guns can match a tuned S&W
revolver trigger.. To me anyway.......

[Unsilenced]

UPDATE:

Tried some polishing and an extended firing pin. Extended firing pin was a complete loss, didn't do a thing to help ignition. The polishing I did in very limited degrees to certain surfaces, and while it might have helped the trigger a little bit, I've had to re-install the factory mainspring.

I'd forgotten how much of a workout pulling the trigger on this thing is with the factory spring. I don't know where Wolff gets the idea for their "factory" strength springs, but it's nothing like the actual spring the gun actually comes with. I have no doubt that it will set off any cartridge put in it now, but I'm practically back where I started.

The only issue remaining is that I should perhaps re-install the factory rebound spring. I have a mildly reduced one in there now, and while the trigger is slightly lighter on the pull, it's a bit weird and jerky as I let it out again, particularly as the rebound spring has to fight the mainspring through the action of the rebound slide. I could also try polishing the surfaces where the rebound slide acts on the hammer, as those are surfaces I didn't do anything with the first time around.

Currently looking at some finer stones to go back at the action again and maybe do a more complete job, as I only hit a couple of the recommended surfaces on my first go around. I'm not sure I want to remove any more from the ones I hit the first time around, but like I said I won't be too broken up about ruining the hammer or trigger, as I'd planned to replace them both eventually anyways.

Should I put in the old firing pin again for use with the full powered original spring, or is there no real detriment to using the extended one?

[SkyHawk]

I put an Apex duty kit w/firing pin in my 642. The trigger feels way better but I have yet to shoot it yet. I hope I don't run into these problems.

[Revoman]

cuppla things;
Is this an older revolver with non-MIM internals. If so, then your polishing will work. If not, it won't do much to enhance and MIM parts do not polish well and already are fairly slick. I doubt that it's an older revolver though since you installed a longer firing pin.
One of the previous replies was indicating that the force in DA is less than SA, that is 100% correct. A lightened hammer will not enhance this and will most likely cause further failures.
Double check the mainspring stirrup when you're in it next, I have seen one side of the stirrup (where the mainspring 'fork' attaches) broken, which puts an odd angle strain on the mainspring causing misfires due to weakness/twisting.
Do not over oil the innards, it will eventually gum up. Use an extremely light touch of oil.
If a longer firing pin didn't work, then you are stuck with the factory, or close to factory pull in DA.

[Unsilenced]

This is a MIM parts gun. I've heard that MIM parts will begin to wear quickly if polished, but time will have to tell there. My polishing did seem to make some surfaces a bit flatter, namely the bottom of the rebound slide and the double action hammer surfaces.

All the internals are properly lubricated and intact. The current trigger problems can be attributed to the weight of the mainspring, and the reduced power rebound spring making for a clunky reset. It's perfectly shootable, but not notably better than it was stock.

If there are no issues with the extended firing pin, I will leave it in for the time being. I plan to eventually get an apex hammer for it, along with a new stainless trigger. Perhaps the extended firing pin will come in handy in ensuring the reliability of the gun once those parts are installed.

[trigger945]

[mausercat]

I have done several S&W revolver tune ups and I always end up with a reliable revolver. Sometimes it takes an extended firing pin, but I think that given your problems there is something not right with the internals.

Something is slowing down the speed of your hammer fall. Is the hammer rubbing on the sides? Is the hammer block partially blocking the hammer's movements? Is the return spring in the firing pin kinked? Does the cylinder have excessive shake. If the firing pin hits the primer but the cylinder gives under the strike it can cause misfires.

I don't know if I put together an exhaustive list, but it is a start.

[Unsilenced]

Since there seems to be some confusion: The gun is working fine with its stock mainspring back in. I shot it today and there were no issues, even in double action with my hard primer ammo. The trigger is however back to (more or less) its stock weight, and my polishing hasn't made that great of a difference.

[Mystery_Milk]

It's not something I would do with a Smith, but shimming can make the trigger real smooth.

I don't think you'll have a problem with a bobbed hammer. It's lighter but it'll also drop faster.

Other than that playing with the extended firing pin is an option. I believe Apex sells both a bobbed hammer and an extended firing pin.

[stormvet]

Sounds like the only way your going to get the trigger you want is to either start replacing your internal components ( trigger, hammer, etc) this May or may not help. Or take it to a pro, I’m a little surprised your stock trigger is that bad. I have three S&W revolvers ( 586-3, 686-4, 617-6) even the MIM 617 has a good trigger out of the box.

I did play the spring game with one revolver I own, but it’s a Taurus so no big surprise there. It is a M85 titanium ultra lite snub with a bobbed hammer. Rough, gritty, heavy trigger, I replaced the main and trigger spring and got light strikes, after several different combinations. The stock main spring and a low power trigger spring with one coil removed gave me the best trigger I could get out of it. While retaining 100% ignition, not as nice as I’d like it but much better then stock.

[Unsilenced]

It's not a bad trigger per se. It's fairly smooth. It's just heavy for me, and it seems strange that I can't find any springs that make it like... 25% lighter. I'm sure that reduction would still set off primers, but all the springs I've used so far have made it much lighter than that, even Wolff's "factory weight" model.

[SJZ_Katsu]

Not sure of your experience with revolvers, but is it possible your grip angle or finger position are factors? I owned a 586-8 bone stock, and when friends struggled to pull the trigger, adjusting where they sit on the grip or making sure they used the right part of the finger usually helped a lot.

That aside, I put the wolf kit in my 19-3 (same internals) and haven't had any problems. I went with the wolf leaf spring and the 14# rebound spring.

Do you have a trigger pull gauge?

[Unsilenced]

My experience with double action revolvers is a little limited. I've done a lot more with single action only, which is perhaps why I'm such a wuss about trigger weight.

What ammo do you shoot in your 19-3? It seems the Fiocchi .357 I use is the toughest customer, though the "factory" Wolff spring offered up a few duds even with my .38.

Don't have a gauge, mean to get one. Any recommendations? Probably going to get a good bit of use out of it once I have it, so something at least middle-of-the-road is desirable.

[SJZ_Katsu]

I shoot whatever is on sale with my 19-3. I did the same spring setup on the 586 and they both ate Hornady, Federal, PPU... right now I am shooting PPU and nickel cased Winchester.

The K (19) and L (686) frames share internal components I think.