Light strikes and spring kits.

[Unsilenced]

Some questions about spring kits in S&W revolvers. Questions in bold if you don't want the full backstory.

I've been working on trying to get the trigger pull on my 686+ lighter. Because I'm no gunsmith, I decided to start with the easily changed springs. I installed the lightest trigger spring that came in a kit because I saw no reason not to and replaced the main spring with a reduced power Wilson Combat spring.

This caused occasional lightstrikes with .38 special ammo and nearly 100% light strikes with my .357 Fiocchi.

From there I went to a reduced power Wolff spring, which also caused light strikes and finally a "factory strength" Wolff spring which, of course, still caused light strikes with Fiocchi ammunition, even in single action mode. The adjustment screw did not help substantially, and it cannot set off the .357 ammo I was feeding it regularly before.

Is there some secret alchemy to springs that only S&W knows? Is there any way to lighten my trigger without restricting my gun's diet?



I've also wanted to put a bobbed hammer on that gun, since I shoot it exclusively in double action. Will doing this make it more prone to lightstrikes? Will it make it less so? Should I consider buying an /extra/ heavy spring to ensure the gun will function with it, if anyone makes such a thing?


I am planning to get a Ruger Redhawk soon and would also like to improve the trigger there, but based on my experiences with the S&W it seems the hammer spring should be ruled out as a place to start.

[ysr_racer]

My 627 is extremely light, and will set off Remington factory ammo, no problem. My gunsmith used a Jerry Mic spring kit, and an Apex DAO hammer, and EXTENDED FIRING PIN.

[JTROKS]

While spring kits decreases the pull weight as you already know, a proper polishing of the action is the magic.

[ojisan]

"Is there any way to lighten my trigger without restricting my gun's diet? "

Polish the parts, smooth edges, lubricate before changing springs.



I've also wanted to put a bobbed hammer on that gun, since I shoot it exclusively in double action. Will doing this make it more prone to lightstrikes? Will it make it less so? Should I consider buying an /extra/ heavy spring to ensure the gun will function with it, if anyone makes such a thing?

In DA the hammer does not move as far back as when cocked to SA so the hammer spring does not get compressed / flexed as much, so the strike is lighter in DA.
If your gun fired the Fiocchi with the original hammer spring, that is all you will need.
(Your Fiocchi ammo probably has hard primers, I think it is the Federal ammo primers that are softer and favored by target shooters).

IMHO, soft springs are for range guns only where a mis-fire is of little consequence.
A home defense gun should have full power springs or slightly lightened but tested and proven for 100% reliability.

As YSR posted, there are longer firing pins that can help with light strikes.
But you still have to have enough spring power to drive the hammer.

[P5Ret]

The best way is, as has already been mentioned polish the internal contact parts. You can also change out the trigger rebound spring. The main spring strain screw should not be touched in an attempt to lighten trigger pull, and you discovered why.

[Old Flash]

A home defense gun should have full power springs or slightly lightened but tested and proven for 100% reliability.

^^ +1.

If you want reliable ammo when using lighter springs and DA only shooting, I would recommend Federal ammo or that you reload using Federal primers. Federal brand primers have soft cups that will consistently ignite with lighter hammer springs. It goes without saying that adjustments to spring tension still needs to be done until you get to that point where ammo fires consistently.

[Unsilenced]

I'm a little nervous about polishing internal parts since, unlike a $10 drop in spring, that can't be yanked back out and put back good as new if something goes wrong.

With the bobbed hammer, I was wondering if the lighter mass would mean even lighter hit and perhaps needing even a heavier spring behind it, or if it would all come out even because of the higher drop speed.

Extended firing pin sounds good, provided it's not a puncture risk.

Note: This is mainly a range gun, but I'd rather not have to worry about what ammo I buy for it, and I'd like to be able to rely on it for defense if the need arises. I'll take a few pounds of trigger weight to know it will go boom any day.

[P5Ret]

I'm a little nervous about polishing internal parts since, unlike a $10 drop in spring, that can't be yanked back out and put back good as new if something goes wrong.

Then you'd probably be better off, putting it back to the way it was when you got it. Then send it back to Smith and let them do the work. The Master Revolver Action package would probably be the way to go. At least that way you know it's done by someone who will stand behind their work.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/customer-service/performance-center-precision-gunsmithing

[hambam105]

Save you money, OP.

These kinds of 'Improvements' where occurring frequently when half of the shooters appeared on the range
with a wheel gun back in the Jurassic Pre-Inner-Web-Days. Just leave it stock.

Real revolver improvement shooting starts with a stock S&W revolver, quality ammo, strong hands, and a plan that
begins and ends with building a solid foundation in the principles of marksmanship.

[MCM]

Had light strikes on a new TRR8. As you posted, mainly in double action. It had a great trigger though. Sent it back to S&W for repair. But asked they kept the trigger as it was. Super smooth DA and light SA. They installed a new "EXTENDED FIRING PIN". Did the trick. This one came with moon clips. But without them would light strike now and then. Dont give up. Nothing like a S&W revolver with a great trigger. Have a bunch. Some are fine, while others are pure magic. Some will know what I am talking about. Others will not....
My 2 best Smith triggers? a box stock 8 3/8" 629 Classic I picked up in 1991 that has thousands of rounds through it.
The other a 1953 K-22 Masterpiece. Followed by the TRR8..........Then the rest..........
Unless you enjoy tinkering, I would send it in and let them do the work.

[Unsilenced]

I do enjoy tinkering, hence getting into this whole project to begin with, but people are very doom and gloom about the unearthly horrors that will be invoked if an unworthy hand dare tamper in the realm of the trigger job.

Worst case scenario if I fail though is that I end up ordering a custom hammer and trigger to replace the ones I botched, which I'd been thinking about doing anyways, so I think I'll give polishing a go.

Going to also order myself an extended firing pin to see if I can make one of the springs I have already work for me.

[Win231]

As long as it's not a defensive gun, you can tinker with it. I did that with a S&W 500. But it would only fire Federal ammo or handloads with Federal primers.
When they manufacture the gun, they have to make it work with all ammo, so the trigger can't be very light.

[MCM]

I have polished several firearm internals. But moving metal is what counts. Polishing makes things run smoother. But thats about it. Depends what you are after. Go slow, try it and post back. Try an extend firing pin. Am betting that does the trick. No problem on a range toy. As long as thats what this is.

[Che762x39]

I have a 686+ I got for Christmas. It had a decent trigger to begin with and have 1200 rounds down range I am getting light strikes.

The 'adjustment screw' is actually called the 'strain screw'. I tighten it to the max and I still got about six light strikes out of 100 rounds (my reloads).

Like what Win231 said I bought a case of Federal primers and will see if that makes a difference. Another reason to go to the Range!

Good luck

[hambam105]

I can respect Unsilenced point of view.

With all joking aside, it truly does amaze me that so many shooters
accept & tolerate brand name revolvers with questionable reliability issues.