1911 slide/frame reassembly question

[Rogerbutthead]

When trying to reassemble a two part guide rod compensated 1911 standard, I was having trouble with the rear end of the two part guide rod (not screwed together with the front piece yet) - spring pressure was shooting it off numerous times. When I did get it on the frame, for the first few attempts, the slide would not retract past its firing position - thus I could not re-insert the slide stop.

I finally did reassemble it, thinking that the angle of the guide rod rear was somehow blocking the slide from retracting further. I mean I altered the angle a number of times before I succeeded. I am wondering if something else was blocking the slide from moving back so I could reassemble the pistol. (Note: This slide would move forward and off. I just had problems moving it further back than just the firing position)

https://imgur.com/6ihYaaH

Earlier this week, when lubing my Safari 1911, the slide would not retract or go forward either - with the slide stop off - so I got a rubber mallet and gave it a whack from the front - and the slide did finally move - but the extractor (as noted by Old Flash, I meant ejector) came off. I did notice the rear of the extractor was not flush with the slide when the slide was stuck. It protruded a bit. The extractor pin was missing and I do not know if the extractor was loctited in or not.

https://imgur.com/zP3Aw5r

https://imgur.com/y0zw5Af

Each gun had a stuck slide - I am wondering if this problem was related to how I was handling these pistols. Am I doing something wrong?

Any similar experiences out there?

[Old Flash]

I also have 2 piece FLGR on my 1911, to assemble I install the spring and rear piece of guide rod (make sure of correct orientation) into slide and get in onto the frame. I then install the slide stop and retract slide back and lock it open with slide stop. Then screw on the end piece of guide rod. I'd avoid whacking the slide into place, there might just be a part not properly seated.

Regards to your Safari 1911, you're referring to the ejector not extractor. Although it doesn't affect function, you can have back of ejector blended to match frame. If you don't have an ejector pin, it might be glued on or installed with a little interference fit.

Edit: It looks like your Safari is using a standard GI guide rod. You could try leaving the barrel bushing rotated out of the way when assembling the slide, barrel, recoil spring and guide rod to frame. Once assembled, compress recoil spring with the plug and rotate barrel bushing into place.

[buffybuster]

Sounds like you're not too familiar with the 1911 platform. I would recommend you find someone who really KNOWS their way around a 1911 to have them show you the various methods to disassemble and reassemble with/without compensator, FLGR. Or do a youtube search. It would a heck of a lot easier than writing it out.

[200Apples]

What part of the State are you in? If you're on the west side of Los Angeles, I can help you.

I'll check this thread again in the morning.

[walmart_ar15]

With the full length guide rod and reverse plug, u do not need to take apart the guide rod to disassemble. Just remove the slide stop the normal way and u can slide the entire slide assembly off the frame with recoil spring captured like other semi, ie glock. It is the reason I like full length guide rod.

U can also use this type with a small hole in it.

http://https://www.ebay.com/p/25GRFW-Wilson-Combat-Full-length-Guide-Rod-Full-size-Flat-Wire/20022535301?iid=231968019482

Use together with a paper clip to hold the reverse plug in place with the compressed spring. It may or may not work for u depending if the hole will clear the compensator.

[JTROKS]

[Rogerbutthead]

I am in the Silicon Valley area.

I have watched a number of assembly videos. I never saw any with a slide that would not move further back than in the firing position.

I am guessing the guide rod was not aligned correctly - but due to the shape of the guide rod, I couldn't really understand why it wouldn't go further back if it already reached the firing position.

I did buy these pistols 20-25 years ago - and cleaning a Gold Cup back then convinced me that I should collect Browning HiPowers instead. Only recently have I started to fool around again with the 1911 platform.

I guess I am demonstrating it ain't idiot proof. I will lay off the rubber mallet.

[heidad01]

It did not go further back because the barrel lugs were not fully seated into the slide.

During assembly the lower part of the guide rod has the two little round legs straddling the barrel. It should move/slide up and down the barrel freely if the barrel lugs are seated completely.

[brassburnz]

Sometimes with the slide stop removed, the barrel link will drop down and block the rearward movement of the slide. It helps to turn the pistol upside down so the barrel link does not drop down in the channel in the frame.

I've seen people insert old golf tees into the slide stop hole to keep the barrel link in the correct position. The golf tee can also be used to nudge the plunger tube spring a little when re-installing the slide stop. This helps to prevent the idiot scratch.

As someone else mentioned, there is usually a small cross hole at the end of the guide rod you can slip a paper clip into to capture the recoil spring. Compress the spring a little and you should see it at the guide rod protrudes from the barrel bushing or reverse plug.

If you capture the spring, it won't be necessary to disassemble the guide rod. This is what I have to do with one-piece full length guide rods. Be careful or you will have things flying all over the place.

[Rogerbutthead]

Thinking about the use of the rubber mallet:

I had put the slide back on the frame of the Safari into the firing position when it would not go back any further. It would not go forward either. (the slide stop was still not attached) So after yanking on the slide repeatedly without the slide budging - I gave it a whack with the rubber mallet/hammer - from the front. That made it move and when the slide came off, so did the ejector.

Other than being more careful with the placement of the guide rod, what should I have done in that situation? (for future reference)

Note: I did field strip, clean and lube two Springfield Armory and one Colt Gold Cup pistols without any problems - so not completely moronic.

Thank you all for the help

[JTROKS]

So the ejector’s feet snapped off? I shouldn’t even ask, because it’s the only way an ejector will come out while the slide is on the frame. If I were near you I’d be more than happy to meet at a gun range and help you with your 1911s.

[Rogerbutthead]

No, the ejector fell out when I pulled the now moving slide off. Didn't make that clear, sorry, second pic showing the complete ejector is crappy - but my eyesight is crappy.

I am waiting for the ejector pin and a replacement ejector I ordered before I put the Safari back together. I am guessing it was loctited in as I walk around barefoot where I got the slide off and haven't noticed any pin on the floor.

Thank you again for all the help. I will try to make sure that the lugs are engaged before I ever consider resorting to the rubber mallet again.

[hambam105]

A few years back you weren't cool unless you installed some kind on non-standard multifaceted guide rod in your otherwise
serviceable 1911 for reasons unknown or long forgotten.

I suppose when we suffered enough with our 1911 improvement efforts we lowered our personal standards and retrofitted
the pistols back to factory specifications and agonized thru the disappointments that only a reliable 1911 can bring.

[MosinVirus]

OP,

Regarding the ejector flying out. In your picture it doesn't look like the front ejector leg has a notch for the pin. But the picture is blurry so it is hard to tell.
If it doesn't have a notch, you would need to make a notch in the front leg in the exactly correct place to capture the leg of the ejector with the pin. Dawson Precision (I think) sells left hand 1/16th drill bits for that specific purpose - drilling through the ejector retaining pin from the right side of the frame with the ejector in place. That will put a notch in the forward leg and you will be able to install the pin. Left hand drill (because people do ask) because it will have a tendency to pull the ejector leg down rather than push it up on contact and as it drills the front leg.

Maybe contact the manufacturer for repair.

If the ejector was rocking, maybe that is what locked the slide in place.

As for the compensated pistol, I don't see why you couldn't go to 1 piece guide rod and use a paperclip to capture the spring. But for some reason that guide rod head looks weird to me. Maybe I haven't looked at one for a while.
And as for the slide not moving past in battery position, the likely culprit is the barrel link (as mentioned above somewhere) that is turned to the rear as oppose to be positioned toward the muzzle as it is in your picture. Because your were struggling with your guide rod, you may have knocked it over without noticing.

[Rogerbutthead]

I am guessing you are right about the rocking of the ejector locking it up.

The ejector does not seem to have a cut for a pin.

Will wait to see what the replacement pin looks like/how it fits. (also ordered another ejector to see what it looks like)

https://i.imgur.com/vNYVs4h.jpg

The comp gun is put together and seems to work, so I won't be taking it apart at any near date. Maybe you will see the next owner talking about problems with it, but don't think I am going to do anything but the bore brush/patch cleaning in what will be left of my ownership of this pistol.

Thanks for all the help.