Snappy 1911 Fix?

[nrakid88]

Well, I was shooting with a buddy and we noticed my brothers 1911 in 45 acp is a bit snappy. I am starting to think that maybe the recoil spring isn't strong enough and the slide is ramming the frame when it is cycling. its a springfield armory GI. Do you guys have any ideas on this? Should I think about getting like a 18 pound recoil spring? And If I do do this is it going to affect reliability?

[nrakid88]

BTW it only has like 800-1000 rounds down the pipe

[Bird of Fire]

17 or 18 lbs is spec for a full size 1911 in .45ACP

You can try it, worth a shot. If not, the only other way to take the sharp recoil out of that pistol is with an EGW firing pin stop which requires fitting.

I would try the spring first. Cheaper and easier

[DarkHorse]

Your friend can also get some shok-buffs, which will limit slide-to-frame contact. It won't do much to reduce recoil, but will protect the frame.

Also, you can get progressive rate springs instead of a steady-rate spring. Wolff springs is one source - http://www.gunsprings.com/1ndex.html

BTW, most 1911's come factory w/a 16 lb. spring.

As far as reliability, if the gun is too snappy right now, the "proper" strength recoil spring will tame it down and function reliably.

[Turbinator]

You can try it, worth a shot. If not, the only other way to take the sharp recoil out of that pistol is with an EGW firing pin stop which requires fitting.

For my own education, how does a firing pin stop remove the sharp recoil out of a 1911?

Turby

[hawk1]

For my own education, how does a firing pin stop remove the sharp recoil out of a 1911?

Turby

The bevel of the firing pin stop can either slow down the recoil of the slide or speed it up. It has to do with the rounded edge that rides on the hammer.
I can dig up the specs they suggest. It goes back to the original 1911 specs years ago.


Edited to add: More info can be found here- http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.ph...ht=firing+stop

[nrakid88]

Wow i think I am going to check out this firing pin stop thing sounds like a good idea.

[Bird of Fire]

For my own education, how does a firing pin stop remove the sharp recoil out of a 1911?

Turby

Here's a thread on it:

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=13060

(website appears to be down for me right now)

Basically instead of a gradual rounding away of the firing pin stop, it's a 45 degree angle or so that contacts the hammer face a lot more abruptly than the ones you're used to seeing. It bleeds off quite a bit of initial energy, and once you play around with the recoil spring and find out what works for you, it's supposed to be one of the biggest 20$ differences you'll notice in your gun. So far I've just fitted mine and have yet to take it to the range to see if it works as claimed. Some people swear by em, so I'll have to see. I figure what's 20 bucks? If it works, great, if not, oh well. So far biggest difference - it's locked up tighter than a mofo when the hammer is down and I go to rack it.

[Blue]

Here's a thread on it:

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=13060

(website appears to be down for me right now)

Basically instead of a gradual rounding away of the firing pin stop, it's a 45 degree angle or so that contacts the hammer face a lot more abruptly than the ones you're used to seeing. It bleeds off quite a bit of initial energy, and once you play around with the recoil spring and find out what works for you, it's supposed to be one of the biggest 20$ differences you'll notice in your gun. So far I've just fitted mine and have yet to take it to the range to see if it works as claimed. Some people swear by em, so I'll have to see. I figure what's 20 bucks? If it works, great, if not, oh well. So far biggest difference - it's locked up tighter than a mofo when the hammer is down and I go to rack it.

My buddy did that with his and swears it worked.

[Colt]

I've done the firing pin stop thing and it does work. Two things - you should change recoil spring at the same time (use 16 lb for a 5" pistol), and you should know that the new firing pin stop arrangement will make it slightly more difficult to manually rack the slide.

[B Strong]

the 18# wouldn't hurt, and it's inexpensive and easy to revert to the original spring rate.

Could be that the original spring was a softee, could hurt to get a 16 and 18 and test both.

[hawk1]

My buddy did that with his and swears it worked.

Worked for mine as well. I did have to buy the Wilson roll o' recoil springs and test each until I found the right one for the load I was using.
Best bang for the buck idea lately.

[m1match]

It doesn't seem intuitive, but a stronger recoil spring will actually increase the felt recoil of the 1911. A stronger recoil spring will resist the slide more as it goes back, but remember, it's acting on the frame, so muzzle rise and felt recoil will be greater with a stronger spring. A lighter spring will allow the slide to travel rearward with less resistance, but, yes, the slide will stop when it hits the spring plug which in turn tranfers the force to the frame at the end of the slide's travel. Standard weight on an 1911 is 16 lbs. The EGW square bottom firing pin stop does retard the unlocking of the slide by a very slight amount, but in combination with a 23 lb (standard weight for the 1911) mainspring and a 16 lb. recoil spring, it does noticeably reduce muzzle rise and felt recoil.

[nrakid88]

Just one question. On the brownell sight which one would be appropriate?
296-000-058 or 296-100-001 ? I don't know if the pistol is a model 70 or model 80

[hawk1]

Just one question. On the brownell sight which one would be appropriate?
296-000-058 or 296-100-001 ? I don't know if the pistol is a model 70 or model 80

You will need to know what model you have.