German luger ammo question

[clb]

Thanks gents

[Jimi Jah]

S&B 115 grain is $172/1k at SGAmmo. They also have 124 grain, very clean shooting ammo and German made.

[sonofeugene]

That made me laugh

Why?

[meanrock]

Use 124gr at 1050 fps. I wouldn't shoot it if it's all original. Cracked toggle is known to happen with shooting these nowadays, and that will devalue an all original gun.

[aspenvalley]

The best thing about Winchester White box is the brass. It reloads great for me. I have had no issues with splitting cases or primer pockets.

WWB is dirty and a little on the light side but good range ammo. Fiocchi is hot stuff for range ammo. Both in 9mm and 45 acp.

Blazer brass ai am not a fan of. The power seemed all over the map. The brass is ok in 9mm not great but ok.

[Dan More]

Those of you that have/had one......
Please keep the flamefest at bay, I just donot see much info here.

9 mm luger of course...
Of course brass cased would be preferable.
Toggle action p08 german luger, war trophy , thanx dad.
Not gunna shoot it much, before the cal ban on importing ammo I want to shelve some additional ammo in case.
What brand and weight work best???
Just want a box or 2 for posterity's sake.
Thanks for looking.

I have a 1920 DWM Luger P08.

My gunsmith suggested to use subsonic ammo on to reduce wear.

I tried Geco 139grain ball and S&B 140grain ball

both to really good and the recoil is lower so the wear is less aswell.

I tried Magtech 147grain ball, but they are to heavy go te POI is very low.

[Tere_Hanges]

I have a 1920 DWM Luger P08.

My gunsmith suggested to use subsonic ammo on to reduce wear.

I tried Geco 139grain ball and S&B 140grain ball

both to really good and the recoil is lower so the wear is less aswell.

I tried Magtech 147grain ball, but they are to heavy go te POI is very low.

This is very sound advice. I have a 1917 Erfurt Luger and I like to shoot it every now and then because it is awesome. However just because it was designed to shoot 124gr ammo I would rather shoot lighter loads to reduce wear and tear. I have an occassional stoppage but Im not sure if it is the power of the round or the super old magazine. At any rate I would like to continue shooting it occasionally and not risk breaking a part since it is 100 years old and the original 9mm pistol. But damn if it isnt tough as nails.

[Dan More]

This is very sound advice. I have a 1917 Erfurt Luger and I like to shoot it every now and then because it is awesome. However just because it was designed to shoot 124gr ammo I would rather shoot lighter loads to reduce wear and tear. I have an occassional stoppage but Im not sure if it is the power of the round or the super old magazine. At any rate I would like to continue shooting it occasionally and not risk breaking a part since it is 100 years old and the original 9mm pistol. But damn if it isnt tough as nails.

Modern ammo is made orimaily for modern firearms. Powder burns faster and hotter then 100 years ago.

The 115grain and lower are to fast and have a to high impuls on the firearm.
The least would be 124grain, bute then also depending on the make. Not all 124grain loads are the same.

[clb]

Thanx gent's you rock.
Allways good to get firsthand exp. From owners.
This has been around me for ever, and it will remain a safe queen, (now the cleaning\carressing bench is another story right) damn thing make my glock look like a playdough factory.

[boopiejones]

Targetsports has a great deal on subsonic federal American eagle right now. Comes out to less than $0.15/round shipped after rebate.

[Pofoo]

I've found that on my 1916 Erfurt that light loads don't always function correctly. Failure to feed and toggle wouldn't lock back after the last shot.
Check out a Luger forum on the web where you could get more expert advise.

[sonofeugene]

Use 124gr at 1050 fps. I wouldn't shoot it if it's all original. Cracked toggle is known to happen with shooting these nowadays, and that will devalue an all original gun.

All matching numbered parts certainly is desireable, but if the gun isn't otherwise collector grade (original finish, good condition), it's not as big a deal if a numbered part breaks. The Luger in my avatar is all original, numbers matching (grips excepted, of course) but since it was polished and refinished years ago, it's just a shooter. I'd be bummed if I broke a numbered part, but it wouldn't be the disaster it would be if it was collector grade.

Also know that the later Mausers are stronger because of improvements in metallurgy through the years.

[tipoc]

Replacement parts can be gotten if needed.

Krausewerks in San Mateo is one reliable source.

http://www.krausewerk.com/

tipoc

[sonofeugene]

Replacement parts can be gotten if needed.

Krausewerks in San Mateo is one reliable source.

http://www.krausewerk.com/

tipoc

A good place. And other places as well. However, finding a replacement part that's original with the same number is near impossible. That's why those with collector grade Lugers are reticent to shoot them.

Another factor to consider when deciding to shoot or not is that Lugers were very much a hand fitted gun. That's why so many of the parts were numbered. If you break a part, there's no guarantee that the replacement will fit and work properly. You might get lucky, but it's not uncommon for the replacement part to require some smithing to get it to work properly. And sometimes the replacement part can't be made to work for one reason or another and you have to find another replacement part. More reason they don't get shot that often, even if it's shooter grade.

[clb]

Thanks for the input guys,I am taking notes.