Canik TP9SF WOWZA...sorta...

[neouser]

Did you mean "for a striker-fired pistol"? Cuz I'm biased but I'm thinking anything plastic and striker-fired with a lever in the trigger isn't going to have crispness & reset like even a low-end modern 1911. Amazing prices on these things, though. All the reviews seem to agree it's the race gun for the masses.

If you study the action really closely, you'll find that it's actually extremely close to the type of sear disengagement you get with a 1911. Most striker fired pistols pull the lever down and out of the way of the striker, completely using the pull of the trigger. The style of trigger we're talking about here actually pre-loads the lever with tension from the striker and the lever itself rests on a sear. When the trigger is depressed, it pulls the sear out of the way and the lever drops and releases the striker.

It's kind of hard to see in this illustration, but it you look carefully, you can see how it functions. Don't be fooled by the protrusion at the top of the sear. It is only for use with the decocker mechanism. The actual sear engagement is low in the frame.

[Rigma]

Thank you for the write-up protohyp. Please continue to update us on the durability of the gun as it gets regular use.

Having had the opportunity to try a Walther P99 and Steyr M9A1...I now feel ruined. I must have one, with a slight preference to the Walther. The Canik as an alternative is intriguing, but given the added cost and hassle to obtain one in CA...it needs have some longevity.

^Good stuf Neouser...I really wish they had a slo-mo view of the cycling...

[MrOrange]

^Good stuf Neouser...I really wish they had a slo-mo view of the cycling...

Ditto, on both counts. It sure looks like a light push to trip as opposed to cranking a cammed lever. I could get used to the actual trigger itself no prob, I use to run a Star PD with a pivoting trigger and it was easy to adapt to.

[protohyp]

So I did some work to the Canik over the weekend.

Up until I got the TP9SF my M&P 9mm had been my work horse mainly because it worked so well for me and just fit my hand perfectly. The bore axis was perfect as well and I would switch between my FS and 5" slide and have a grand time shooting it.

The one thing I did notice with the TP9 is that although the bore axis is a little high, (not as high as my XDM) the frame beavertail rides a little low. So shaved a lot of material to get the beavertail higher. Also since I like to hold my hand up high on the gun the frame sticks out quite a bit from the slide and it would bite into my thumb because I would hold the frame high. So I sanded that back as well and now it is perfect. I wish I would have taken pictures but maybe I can find a stock photo of the beavertail from before and show the after.

I also did a deep single undercut and since there is a lot of material there you can cut that pretty high. Now its starting to reach glove status.

I did the same thing to my M&P although out of the box the M&P was the most comfortable it didn't get perfect until I had done some work to it.

For me the grip angle of the TP9 is good. not much adjustment if any needed when pointing in and the grip texture garners no complaints from me. I don't stipple any of my frames and don't see it necessary on the TP9 for any reason but thats just me.

[protohyp]

This is the stock beavertail



My modified beavertail



Shaped the side of the frame to not be so obtrusive for my grip




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[beanz2]

Very nice. What did you use to shape the frame? Were you able to replicate the original frame texture, or was it smooth polymer to begin with? Did you undercut the trigger guard?

[protohyp]

Very nice. What did you use to shape the frame? Were you able to replicate the original frame texture, or was it smooth polymer to begin with? Did you undercut the trigger guard?

just sand paper and elbow grease. it took time but it was very easy to do or at least get the shape. I basically put it in a vice and shined it like a shoe for lack of a better image. I knew the basic shape I wanted it to be so took it down as far as I could then the rest went down just by my thumb riding the shape with sandpaper. My assumption is that the rear rails are imbedded in there somewhere so be careful how far you take it back. the texture is fairly smooth but I stopped at a fairly worn down piece of 220 sand paper and it blended in really well. you really can't tell that I intervened.

yes I did the trigger guard as well and a 2A drumstick (if you're a drummer you'd know the size) wrapped in sandpaper gave me a nice deep shape.

[beanz2]

yes I did the trigger guard as well and a 2A drumstick (if you're a drummer you'd know the size) wrapped in sandpaper gave me a nice deep shape.

Haha, you said 2A...

[protohyp]

Haha, you said 2A...

It was by design. Haha


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[protohyp]

Standard




Undercut






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[osis32]

don't stop that sucker on a table edge bro. haha