M&P mag disconnect question

[Slugz]

I know removing the mag disconnect and replacing with a spring is the common practice for dealing with deactivating that feature, but for someone like me that is leary of adding unnecessary parts to a gun and creating a potential weak point in the trigger system of all things id like to explore other options. I haven't dug into the system yet and was curious if anyone knows exactly how that disconnect bar works? My logic tells me that the way it seems to operate, and the fact that outright removal will bypass the system entirely, there must be a "catch" or something on the backside of that bar that protrudes into the magwell, that when mag is inserted will fail to come into contact with some internal piece.

So, if all this is accurate, what about taking a file to whatever that piece is on the back of the disconnect lever and rendering it useless, then reinstall so the gun is still a factory product?

[Res]

The spring that you are replacing the disconnect with is used more as a block to keep the sear disconnect where it's supposed to be. If you just remove the mag disconnect, everything will want to shift towards that side and will always be "disconnected".

A quick youtube vid that should give you a better idea:

[hardhead]

It's a pretty easy job and all you need is a punch set and hammer.

This explains what's involved and how it works.

http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/M&P2.htm

You can either cut a 1911 mag release spring to the correct size or just buy the proper spring here.

http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_90_116&products_id=1058

Doing this properly will not weaken the trigger system. As an added bonus, no more flipping that lever down to remove the slide.

[Slugz]

The spring that you are replacing the disconnect with is used more as a block to keep the sear disconnect where it's supposed to be. If you just remove the mag disconnect, everything will want to shift towards that side and will always be "disconnected".

A quick youtube vid that should give you a better idea:

I know how it's done and why the spring is needed, im just not as comfortable with addibg a spring foreign to the design as i am with modifying the current design.

[Slugz]

It's a pretty easy job and all you need is a punch set and hammer.

This explains what's involved and how it works.

http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/M&P2.htm

You can either cut a 1911 mag release spring to the correct size or just buy the proper spring here.

http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_90_116&products_id=1058

Doing this properly will not weaken the trigger system. As an added bonus, no more flipping that lever down to remove the slide.

Never heard of this mod affecting the sear disconnect, how would it negate my need to flip the disconnect down to remove the slide without firing?

[Slugz]

And the problem with buying those Springs is they want more to ship it with an envelope and stamp than the cost of the spring... Ridiculous..

[hardhead]

Never heard of this mod affecting the sear disconnect, how would it negate my need to flip the disconnect down to remove the slide without firing?

Can't do it without firing, but it will now fire without a magazine..

You pull the slide back, rotate the take down lever, release the slide forward and pull the trigger. Slide should come right off. Just a simple convenience.

[saudadeii]

If you're willing to field strip ala Glock-Style (pull the trigger), you can take both levers out with the spring and leave the cavity empty.

[Sentenza]

Did you consider replacing the sear block with a non-disconnect version?

[morrcarr67]

I know how it's done and why the spring is needed, im just not as comfortable with addibg a spring foreign to the design as i am with modifying the current design.

You could get a new sear block with no disconnect safety.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/546264/smith-and-wesson-sear-housing-block-without-integral-lock-and-magazine-safety-s-and-w-m-and-p-m-and-p-compact-9mm-luger-357-sig-40-s-and-w

Sent with my opposable thumbs

[Slugz]

Can't do it. Already talked to s&w. The cavities are different and the location of the pins are as well from what they said.

[Intel0116]

Its a waist of time and $ to do all that. Just remove the spring, mag disconnect, and sear disconnect and put it back together, ive been running mine that way for a few years with zero issues. Its free and easy, and keeps less parts in the gun that could fail.

[saudadeii]

Really, it's not a big deal. I bought a new sear housing block with the PC sear from my 9c. It did not have the mag disconnect. Buying a sping with shipping is far cheaper.

[9mmepiphany]

So, if all this is accurate, what about taking a file to whatever that piece is on the back of the disconnect lever and rendering it useless, then reinstall so the gun is still a factory product?

im just not as comfortable with addibg a spring foreign to the design as i am with modifying the current design.

Just so I'm clear on what you're saying.

You're more willing to modify an existing part (which would than, by definition, no longer be a "factory product"), than to change it from one factory configuration into another factory configuration (with and without magazine disconnect)?

[Slugz]

Just so I'm clear on what you're saying.

You're more willing to modify an existing part (which would than, by definition, no longer be a "factory product"), than to change it from one factory configuration into another factory configuration (with and without magazine disconnect)?

Im just not sold on the idea of" jimmy rigging" a spring into the mix. Seems like just filong off the catch itself would be more stable than putting a random spring in.