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I have a 5 month old G19 with about 800 rounds through.
I can shoot it ok, but I find the trigger break to be pretty bad. It's a mushy wall that will mess up my grouping if I don't focus hard. It makes shooting 15-20-25 yards much harder, personally, than it should be.
Enter the ZEV trigger. This thing costs a bunch. A lot of people say it's one of the best, and with Brownells 100% money back guarantee, I thought I'd give it a try.
Stock trigger for later comparison
Pulled out the fire control system
Taking out the striker was not hard at all.
Slapping this in.
The process is straight forward and quite simple. If you trust yourself with tools around your gun, you can doh eeet!
I'm going to take the gun to the range later today to test it, but here's my initial table top review.
Assembly issues? Minimal. I dropped in the polished safety plunger with the kit spring and the spring ended up sitting in there sideways. I did not know this and I couldn't get the gun to safely reset. It would set off the striker and fire on reset. NOT GOOD. The manual does say to do tests, and it's good practice to do a full function check after every disassembly. I stripped the gun, found the problem and reassembled. Reset issue sol-ved.
How does the trigger feel? I basically installed the 3 pound duty striker spring, the polished plunger, spring, trigger bar, race connector and trigger. It's ok. The pre-travel feels the same. Not changed at all. The over travel is the same, my original trigger was good with that. The trigger break is much improved. Gone is that mushy heavy wall. That wall was what I hated about the trigger in the first place. Mission accomplished, SOMEWHAT.
I don't feel like I need all the stuff included in the kit to achieve this. More on this in the end.
Adjustments - I didn't find the adjustments very useful. The pre-travel does adjust, but the safety will get disabled before I can get it anywhere that I feel would be an improvement. The over travel was fine in my stock trigger, and I did not feel a need to adjust with the new one.
Table top conclusion - I feel that the improvement in the trigger break is substantial. It will likely improve my groupings. With the 3 pound striker spring, I feel it's ok for carry and HD. It does not create a scary light trigger, pretty stock pull, just an improved break.
Why is it SOMEWHAT mission accomplished? I spent 175 bucks on the system, and I theorize that a 25 cent Glock trigger job and a Lone Wolf connector may get me the same thing. I'd bought the ZEV thinking I'll get something out of the adjustments. I'd worked on adjusting the pre-travel extensively and there was no discernible improvement in the take up without disabling the safety. To that point, the pre-travel adjustment is useless. Over travel, didn't need it.
I have 30 days where I can return the trigger. I'm going ahead and doing a 25 cent Glock trigger job and test it with the kit race connector for a full comparison of the two. Now that I've completely stripped the Glock and seen what I've seen, I think the striker, connector and trigger bar interface is what affects the trigger break. If I can get the same results with a little elbow grease and just the connector, the trigger is going back.
I can shoot it ok, but I find the trigger break to be pretty bad. It's a mushy wall that will mess up my grouping if I don't focus hard. It makes shooting 15-20-25 yards much harder, personally, than it should be.
Enter the ZEV trigger. This thing costs a bunch. A lot of people say it's one of the best, and with Brownells 100% money back guarantee, I thought I'd give it a try.
Stock trigger for later comparison
Pulled out the fire control system
Taking out the striker was not hard at all.
Slapping this in.
The process is straight forward and quite simple. If you trust yourself with tools around your gun, you can doh eeet!
I'm going to take the gun to the range later today to test it, but here's my initial table top review.
Assembly issues? Minimal. I dropped in the polished safety plunger with the kit spring and the spring ended up sitting in there sideways. I did not know this and I couldn't get the gun to safely reset. It would set off the striker and fire on reset. NOT GOOD. The manual does say to do tests, and it's good practice to do a full function check after every disassembly. I stripped the gun, found the problem and reassembled. Reset issue sol-ved.
How does the trigger feel? I basically installed the 3 pound duty striker spring, the polished plunger, spring, trigger bar, race connector and trigger. It's ok. The pre-travel feels the same. Not changed at all. The over travel is the same, my original trigger was good with that. The trigger break is much improved. Gone is that mushy heavy wall. That wall was what I hated about the trigger in the first place. Mission accomplished, SOMEWHAT.
I don't feel like I need all the stuff included in the kit to achieve this. More on this in the end.
Adjustments - I didn't find the adjustments very useful. The pre-travel does adjust, but the safety will get disabled before I can get it anywhere that I feel would be an improvement. The over travel was fine in my stock trigger, and I did not feel a need to adjust with the new one.
Table top conclusion - I feel that the improvement in the trigger break is substantial. It will likely improve my groupings. With the 3 pound striker spring, I feel it's ok for carry and HD. It does not create a scary light trigger, pretty stock pull, just an improved break.
Why is it SOMEWHAT mission accomplished? I spent 175 bucks on the system, and I theorize that a 25 cent Glock trigger job and a Lone Wolf connector may get me the same thing. I'd bought the ZEV thinking I'll get something out of the adjustments. I'd worked on adjusting the pre-travel extensively and there was no discernible improvement in the take up without disabling the safety. To that point, the pre-travel adjustment is useless. Over travel, didn't need it.
I have 30 days where I can return the trigger. I'm going ahead and doing a 25 cent Glock trigger job and test it with the kit race connector for a full comparison of the two. Now that I've completely stripped the Glock and seen what I've seen, I think the striker, connector and trigger bar interface is what affects the trigger break. If I can get the same results with a little elbow grease and just the connector, the trigger is going back.
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